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Spectacular Cat's Ear Spire Climbed

By Dougald MacDonald 

Photo by Micah Dash

Micah Dash and Eric DeCaria made the second ascent of Cat’s Ear Spire (17,585 feet) in the Trango area of Pakistan, climbing a 12-pitch variation to the original route on the stunning rock needle. The two Americans climbed the 3,500-foot line, Super Cat (VI 5.11 R A1), in alpine style, enduring three bivouacs with no sleeping bags. They placed no pins or bolts on the route. 

Cat’s Ear Spire was pioneered in 2000 by Americans Jonny Copp and Mike Pennings. Dash said in an email from Pakistan that the climb was “much more serious and complicated than the Eternal Flame on Nameless Tower,” a route that he and partners speed-climbed to the summit ridge last year. “The route consisted of pitch after pitch of mandatory run-out 5.11 offwidth, squeeze chimney, and face climbing,” Dash said. Both men led and downclimbed the summit block to tag the top.
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Photo by Micah Dash




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