Cobra Pillar Free-Climbed

Coloradans Ryan Nelson and Jared Ogden free-climbed the East Face of Mount Barrille in the Ruth Gorge of Alaska, via the classic Cobra Pillar. The two completed the 20-pitch rock route on June 29 in 15 hours of climbing, followed by a four-hour descent of the 7,754-foot peak’s northern side. They climbed alpine-style, with no fixed ropes and no additional fixed protection. This was their third attempt at the pillar, with poor weather repelling two previous efforts as well as attempts on four other peaks during their three-week visit to the gorge.
 
The Cobra Pillar was first climbed in 1989 by Jim Donini and Jack Tackle, and since then it has been targeted by numerous free climbers because of its clean lines and relatively solid rock. Unstable weather, some choss and the alpine nature of the route, with 1,000 feet of snow and ice leading to the summit above the rock pillar, had so far prevented a free ascent. Only short sections of aid remained, however, and the climb eventually went at a relatively modest 5.11. Nelson and Ogden freed a pendulum and rotten chimney low on the route and pioneered a three-pitch variation to a bolted headwall near the top.
 
Nelson, whose Alaskan trip was supported by grants from the American Alpine Club, the Polartec Challenge and the Arc’teryx Evolution in Action program, said the climb was “an excellent combination of beautiful and frightening rock conditions—a true adventure climb.”