Late-Summer New Route in Tetons

Stealing a last bit of summer, Bean Bowers, Greg Collins, and Hans Johnstone onsighted a 5.12 new route on the South Buttress of Mt. Moran in Grand Teton National Park on September 29. The South Buttress Prow (IV 5.12a/b) takes a steep line up the outside corner of the buttress, to the right of the classic South Buttress Direct. 

The three climbers started on the first two pitches of South Buttress Direct, then did a pitch of South Buttress Central before continuing up new ground. A 5.10 pitch up a big, right-facing corner and a short 5.9 R/X traverse left onto the prow gained the crux lead: a sustained, overhanging, rattly finger and tight-hand crack, which they felt added up to 5.12a/b. Easier but very steep climbing continued for three more pitches to the top of the prow, from which they rappelled, having all previously climbed the lower-angled buttress to the top of Mt. Moran.

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