Stiff Mixed at Cannon Cliff

Peter Doucette and Freddie Wilkinson have climbed the second major new route of the season on the left side of New Hampshire’s Cannon Cliff. Firing Line (NEI5+ M6) follows three mixed pitches left of the classic Cannon testpiece Omega (NEI 5+). 

The two first climbed the thinly iced lower third of Omega to a big ledge below that route’s crux curtain. After traversing left on the ledge, Doucette climbed a short, steep rock band (M5) to reach another ledge system. Wilkinson then led a beautiful thinly iced corner that ended at a bulge (M6), which “involved the use of an iced fin and a bit of laybacking,” Doucette wrote at the IMCS Guides’ Blog. “The corner and its exit moves offered sustained, excellent, and sometimes delicate climbing.” A steep, varied ice pitch led to a few final rock moves and the top of the cliff (NEI5+ M4). “As the light faded, nearly a whole day’s worth of climbing was descended in two 60-meter rappels,” Doucette wrote. 

As the two were climbing their new line, Ben Gilmore and Kevin Mahoney were making the probable second ascent of Mean Streak, farther to the left. Will Mayo and Andy Tuthill established Mean Streak (WI6 M7) in December. 

“It was a stellar day on Cannon,” Doucette said. “We climbed beside each other, hooting and hollering back and forth.” 

Last spring, Doucette, Gilmore, and Wilkinson teamed up to make the first ascent of the Fin Wall near Mt. Foraker in Alaska. 

Date of Ascents: January 4, 2008 

Sources: Peter Doucette, IMCSguides.blogspot.com

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