New Route in Kichatnas

It might be overstating the case to say Twid Turner has an “enviable” record in Alaska’s Kichatna Spires, given the fact that the Kichatnas’ notoriously nasty weather isn’t for everyone. But with three new routes in three successive years, the British alpinist’s track record is certainly remarkable. This spring, Turner, Dai Lampard and Suart McAleesee climbed a new Grade VI route on the 2,500-foot East Face of Mt. Nevermore. The trio spent 10 days on the wall, climbing capsule-style, with rock up to 5.11 A2 and cold, very snowy conditions. By continuing to the summit of Nevermore, they made the first complete ascent of the East Face. Americans Jed and Doug Workman and Mike Houston had climbed a separate route on the face in 1998 but did not reach the summit.

Turner and McAlesee climbed a new line on the East Face of the Citadel in 2002 (not reaching the summit), and he, McAlesee and Ollie Sanders completed the Supa Dupa Couloir, a 21-pitch ice climb, to the top of the Citadel last year.