Gareth Hughes and Vivian Scott made the first ascent of the East Face of Mt. Dan Beard, the 10,260-foot peak that forms the north end of the Ruth Amphitheater in the Alaska Range. The easily accessed face has long been an obvious target, but dangerous serac bands guard any potential route. The two Brits chose a line on the right side of the face to skirt the worst seracs and, starting at 7 p.m. on April 12, waded up waist-deep snow and over short mixed steps to reach a snow arête halfway up the face. Above the arête, they weaved through seracs to reach the summit at about 3 a.m. They descended via the serac-studded north face and reached their camp after a 24-hour round trip. The two named the route Sideburn Rib (4,500 feet, V Scottish IV 75°). 

The two later attempted a beautiful steep couloir to the right of a huge rock buttress on the Southeast Ridge of Mt. Dan Beard. Overcoming pitches up to WI 5+ and M4, they climbed within a few pitches of the ridge crest before they were halted by a lack of ice on a huge chockstone. 

Trivia question: Who is Mt. Dan Beard named for? (Scroll down for the answer)

Dates of Ascent: April 12-13, 2007 

Source: Viv Scott, Alaska Climbing

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Answer: Daniel Carter Beard (1850–1941), an illustrator and one of the founders of the Boy Scouts of America.