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Hans Johnstone during the long approach to Mt. Owen’s North Ridge, descending the Northeast Snowfields.
Photo by Greg Collins, courtesy of Sue Miller.
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Teton hardmen Greg Gollins and Hans Johnstone have made the first winter ascent of the North Ridge of Mt. Owen, one of the longest climbing routes in Grand Teton National Park. On March 18, the two approached 12,928-foot Mt. Owen via the Teton Glacier and the Koven Couloir on the southeast side of the mountain, then downclimbed to the base of the 3,000-foot North Ridge (IV 5.9 in summer conditions). Carrying only light packs, the two reached the top in the dark, 18 hours after starting their day. They then downclimbed and rappelled Owens’ normal route to the Teton Glacier, where they bivied before returning to the car.
  EnlargeHans Johnstone just below the North Ridge of Mt. Owen during the first winter ascent.
Photo by Greg Collins, courtesy of Sue Miller.
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Earlier this winter, Johnstone and Stephen Koch climbed a very hard new route on the lower North Face of the Grand Teton. (See climbing.com/
news/hotflashes/
grandsqueezebox/.) Collins, meanwhile, has made numerous winter ascents in the range this year, including Moran, Middle Teton, South Teton, Nez Perce, and Buck Mountain, along with five winter ascents of the Grand (including one on March 23).
Date of Ascent: March 18, 2007
Sources: www.jhmg.com, www.thesnaz.com, Sue Miller
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