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New Route on Burkett Needle

By Dougald MacDonald / The Mountain World


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High camp below Burkett Needle. The west ridge generally follows the far left skyline. Courtesy of CascadeClimbers.com.


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John Frieh leading a mixed step on the west ridge. The climbers changed between mountain boots and rock shoes several times during the ascent. Photo by Dave Burdick, courtesy of CascadeClimbers.com.

News Link: Americans Dave Burdick and John Frieh snatched the first ascent of the beautiful west ridge of Burkett Needle in southeast Alaska during a spell of high pressure in early July. They climbed the route, Smash and Grab (IV 5.8 M4), in a single day, after a helicopter approach and hike to high camp. The descended by rappelling the south pillar, first climbed in 1995. 

Burdick had previously attempted the west ridge in 2006. The climbers believe this was the fifth ascent of Burkett Needle, first climbed in 1964 by Dan Davis and Layton Kor. 

Frieh has posted a lavishly illustrated trip report at CascadeClimbers.com

Date of Ascent: July 4, 2009 

Source: CascadeClimbers.com

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