New Routes in Queen Maud Land, Antarctica

At the end of 2008, a French expedition climbed a new route on the granite tower Holstind in Queen Maud Land, Antarctica, and made the first ascent of several other peaks. The expedition of the Groupe Militaire de Haute Montagne (GMHM), an elite alpine squad of the French army, also made a spirited attempt on a long new route on stunning Ulvetanna.

The team climbed a 19-pitch new route on the north pillar of Holstind, the northern summit of the Holtanna massif. The route was named Pilier de Choudens Renard (650m, A2/A3) after two GMHM members killed during an expedition to Shishapangma in 2003.

Three climbers attempted a new route on the south arête of Ulvetanna. After making the first ascent of the “Bouteille” (Bottle) via nine pitches of aid climbing, they later attempted to reach the summit by jugging fixed ropes to the top of the Bottle, and then climbing eight pitches of delicate rock and mixed ground along a sharp arête pocked with enormous huecos. They stopped about three steep pitches below the summit in rising winds and snowfall, and returned to base camp 36 hours after leaving.

Other climbers skied to the King Olaf Mountains, where they ascended four previously unclimbed peaks.

The Swiss-German team of Stephan Siegrist and Alexander and Thomas Huber was also in the area, hoping to climb new big-wall routes on Holtanna and Ulbetanna. It’s not yet known how they have fared.

Dates of Ascents: December 2008

Source: Gmhm.terre.defense.gouv.fr

Comment on this story