Climbing
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New Route in Nepal for French Team
By Dougald MacDonald

Climbing the long East Ridge of Ganesh V—long, in this case, means about four miles. Photo courtesy of Aymeric Clouet/Clouclou.spaces.live.com.

A four-man French team has climbed a difficult new route to a previously unclimbed subpeak of Ganesh V in Nepal. This 6,986-meter peak is well off the radar of most mountaineers and has been climbed only a handful of times, despite rising less than 50 miles from Kathmandu. 

Aymeric Clouet, Frédérique Dégoulet, Julien Dusserre, and Mathieu Maynadier chose to attempt a virgin rock subpeak that tops out at 6,741 meters (22,116 feet), one of several high points on Ganesh V’s long ridgeline. After acclimatizing, they established advanced base camp, and then, after a rest, climbed the East Ridge of the subsummit in four days. The route has a total gain of about 8,800 feet above base camp, including 4,000 vertical feet of technical ridge climbing, with an 800-foot rock headwall at the top, up to 6a (5.10) in difficulty. They named the summit La Pointe du Gorille (Gorilla Peak). 

The multisummited ridgeline of Ganesh V. The French team climbed the ridge on the right to the top of the blocky rock peak. Courtesy of www.ffcam.fr.

Date of Ascent: November 15, 2007 

Sources: ffcam.fr, Aymeric Clouet, Clouclou.spaces.live.com, American Alpine Journal

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Camp at 6,250 meters (about 20,500 feet) on the East Ridge of Ganesh V. Photo courtesy of Aymeric Clouet/Clouclou.spaces.live.com.

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Starting the final headwall on Ganesh V: mixed climbing and rock up to 5.10. Photo courtesy of Aymeric Clouet/Clouclou.spaces.live.com.


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