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Usobiaga Makes Historical First Onsight of an 8c+ (5.14c)
By Luke Laeser


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Usobiaga on #uck the System, 9a (5.14d) on the 10th of December. Photos by Irati Anda and Josu Martínez, courtesy of Patxiusobiaga.com

The superhuman Patxi Usobiaga has onsighted the first ascent of Bizi Euskaraz (8c+, or 5.14c), at the Etxauri crag in the Navarra region of Spain. If Bizi Euskaraz is confirmed at this grade, his ascent will be the first 5.14c onsight in history, though multiple climbers (Usobiaga included) have now onsighted 5.14b. Bizi Euskaraz was an open project until Patxi's send. Bolted by Ekaitz Maiz four years ago, the route is thought to be a serious 8c+ and had beat down all previous suitors — but future ascents will tell. Ekaitz Maiz and Gorka Karapeto witnessed Patxi's ascent and agree with the 8c+ grade.

Last week, Patxi Usobiaga had the Best Week of Climbing Ever with his repeat of La Novena Enmienda (9a+/5.15a) at Santa Linya, Spain plus two other 5.15a routes, a 5.14c/d, and three 8b (5.13d) or harder onsights in one week; the week before, he redpointed a 5.14d and a 5.14c.

The World Cup champion has shown he's pretty good at hanging on, and giving 100 percent on the first go. Here's a few Climbing.com articles on Usobiaga's onsight efforts: Proof of Progression: Usobiaga Onsights Second 5.14b; Climbing Five 14a Onsights in a Year

Usobiaga on #uck the System, 9a (5.14d) on the 10th of December. Photos by Irati Anda and Josu Martínez, courtesy of Patxiusobiaga.com

Date of ascent: December 12, 2007

Sources: Patxiusobiaga.com; kairn.com

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