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Swizzy Bouldering Rundown

By Amanda Fox


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Carlo Traversi on The Dagger (V14). Photo courtesy of carlotraversi.com

11/3/10 - News link: Paul Robinson's extended vacation in Switzerland has turned out some impressive sends. On October 29, Robinson managed to send Shadowfax (V13), La Soucoupe (V12), Roswell (V12), and Vitruvian Man (V9) in Chironico in a half hour. He sent all four problems second go. Shortly after, he flashed Le Dent Nous Portera (V10).

To date, Robinson has climbed at least 18 V10s or harder on this Switzerland trip, including Ill Trill (V15) and two V14s. He plans to spend another month and a half in Switzerland and has his sights set on Big Paw (V15).

Carlo Traversi is also on the Switzerland-circuit takedown. On October 25, Traversi sent The Dagger (V14) after three days of effort. "Very intense on hte core and the toehooks," he blogs. "The beta that I developed was quite odd... I opted for a more sidways method. This resulted in quite a few back flops and some blood to go with it." He also bagged Amber (V13) on October 30. He's climbed more than two dozen V10s or harder, including The Never Ending Story (V14).

Alex Puccio is enjoying her time in Switzerland, having climbed nine V10s or harder, with an ascent of Polly Pocket Sit (V12).


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Chris Webb Parsons on Bella Luna. Photo by Patrick Lenniger

UPDATED 11/15/10

The action continues in Switzerland as international boulderers trounce boulder after boulder. On November 12, Japanese climber Dai Koyamada made the second ascent of Big Paw, a Dave Graham V15 in Chironico. Big Paw is the sit start to Boogalagga (V13). Watch Koyamada work Big Paw below.

Robinson continues his trip with several more V13s: The Dagger, La Proue, and Collateral.

Australian Chris Webb Parsons established a new V14, Bella Luna, which adds six moves to Alphane Moon (V12/13). Read more about his send at his blog.

Puccio's trip has also been successful thus far, with an ascent of Alphane Moon and Les Doigts Vert (V10).

UPDATED 11/29/10

Yesterday, Adam Ondra grabbed the third ascent of Big Paw, Dave Graham's V15, in Chironico, which Dai Koyamada repeated on November 12. This is Ondra's first V15, although he has also climbed 5.15b (Golpe de Estado). Three hours later, Robinson sent Big Paw after working it for three days (he sent Boogalagga, V13, the stand start, after only five tries). Ondra believes V15 should stand as the grade, but Robinson feels it ranks more at V14—he has recently climbed several V15s, such as Fred Nicole's Monkey Wedding and feels Big Paw to be easier.

Previously, on November 25, Robinson finished off Dreamtime (V14) in Cresciano. Says Paul on his blog, "I had dreamed about climbing this amazing boulder ever since it was originally put up by Fred Nicole in 2002... Though obviously harder [since a hold broke in 2009], the boulder still climbs really well and still stands as one of the best in the world."

Sources: 27crags.com, 8a.nu, carlotraversi.com, chriswebbparsons.com, p-d-robinson.tumblr.com

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