Two First Free Ascents in Cirque of Unclimbables

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Ines Papert and Lisi Steurer making the first free ascent of Riders on the Storm (5.12d) on East Huey Spire, Cirque of the Unclimbables, Canada. Photo by Chris Atkinson, courtesy of Ines Papert / www.ines-papert.de.

News Link: Ines Papert from Germany and Lisi Steurer from Austria established a new 400-meter route on Middle Huey Spire in Canada’s Cirque of the Unclimbables, and then Papert returned to free-climb the line at 5.13a. Power of Silence follows cracks and corners through some large roofs on the left side of the south face, wih 11 pitches, mostly 5.11 and 5.12.

Papert also did the likely first free ascent of Riders on the Storm (5.12d, 11 pitches, Aberger-Stevens, 2003) on the northeast face of East Huey Spire; all but the sixth pitch had previously been free-climbed. The two women also repeated the southeast buttrress of Lotus Flower Tower (800m, 5.10c), the Northwest Territories’ most famous climb.

Click here to read Papert’s account of the expedition and see more photos.

Dates of Ascents: August 2009

Sources: Ines Papert / ines-papert.de, PlanetMountain.com, American Alpine Journal

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The line of Power of Silence (5.13a, 11 pitches) on Middle Huey Spire. Photo courtesy of Ines Papert / www.ines-papert.de.