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Alps Masters: An Interview With Miha Valic and Martin Moran

Blaz Grapar climbing on Les Droites, the final peak in Valic's odyssey.
Photo courtesy of Miha Valic.

What do you think of Valič's feat? Why has this for so long been a thorn in the side of European alpinists?
Miha Valicˇ deserves enormous credit for taking this 4,000-meter peak challenge into the winter season. His aim of doing 82 in 82 days was laudable, even though he used car transport/cablecars, etc. and did not do a continuous route. His success lays down the gauntlet for further winter attempts.

What are the most difficult peaks, by the easiest routes, on this list?
Schreckhorn - Taschhorn - Matterhorn - Weisshorn - Aig Verte - Grandes Jorasses  - Aig Blanche de Peuterey are the hardest major mountains, but it is the smaller tops on the list that are the hardest to reach and most technical (e.g., summits on Diable Ridge of Mont Blanc du Tacul, and West Ridge of Grandes Jorasses).

Anything I didn't ask?
I've just written an English-language guidebook to all the classic routes on the 4,000-meter peaks to be published at the end of June 2007 by The Alpine Club - distribution by www.cordee.co.uk. There are thousands of climbers trying to climb all the 4,000-meter peaks over a longer period of 10 or 15 years. The challenge gives focus and purpose to their mountaineering. 





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