Huge Climbs in Chinese Tien Shan
News Link: A small American-Scottish expedition backed by a Lyman Spitzer Cutting-Edge Award from the American Alpine Club has completed significant climbs on the Chinese side of the Tien Shan. Jed Brown, Kyle Dempster, and Jared Vilhauer, along with Scotsman Bruce Normand, leader of the expedition, scored several new lines in the Xuelian massif, including a superb and difficult one on a 6,422-meter western satellite of Xuelian Feng.
Xuelian Feng (6,627m) is a massive, marble peak that was first climbed in 1990 by a Japanese expedition. In their best climb, Brown, Dempster, and Normand climbed the enormous north face of Xuelian’s west ridge during a five-day effort. The 2,650-meter line, The Great White Jade Heist, went at M6 WI5 5.7 R.
Date of Ascent: August 26-30, 2009
Sources: Jed Brown, Bruce Normand, American Alpine Journal
- Nine Dead from Avalanche on Mont Blanc
- Barking Mad: RRG’s Madness Cave in a Day
- Puigblanque Snags Second Ascent of Catxasa (5.15a)
- Pringle Makes FA of 5.14d in Nevada
- The Nose Sees a New Female Speed Record