Hukkataival, Other Euros Crush in Bishop
2/23/11 - Finnish powerhouse Nalle Hukkataival has been crushing stateside, spending about three weeks in Bishop, California. (He arrived with Austrians Anna Stohr and Kilian Fischhuber—stay tuned to hear about their ascents.) Known for his quick repeats of hard problems, Hukkataival dispatched The Swarm (V13/14), The Swarm direct (V13, FA), and The Mandala sit (V14) each in a single session. About The Swarm: "It's for sure one of the coolest crimp lines I've climbed, and the double gaston move in the middle is amazing," Hukkataival said on his blog. He suggested V13 as a more accurate grade. According to 8a.nu, the consensus is split between V13 and V14.
Today, Hukkataival sent Evilution (V12). "No chalk on the holds, no tick marks, bad beta. Really had to try hard," he said on his scorecard. Other sends include Maze of Death (V12), Xavier's Roof (V11), Haroun and the Sea of Stories (V12), and This Side of Paradise (V10).
Guillaume Glairon-Mondet of France has also climbed well in California, repeating The Mandala sit and Direct North (V14), Iron Resolution (V13), Direction (V13), The Oracle (V13), and Haroun.
Just last week, Enzo Oddo repeated Kevin Jorgeson's 45-foot Ambrosia (V11). Read more here.
Dates of ascents: February 2011
- Nine Dead from Avalanche on Mont Blanc
- Freed from the Undertow (5.11+) on CO's Black Wall
- Barking Mad: RRG's Madness Cave in a Day
- Puigblanque Snags Second Ascent of Catxasa (5.15a)
- Pringle Makes FA of 5.14d in Nevada