Ines Papert repeats hardest route on North Face of Cima Grande di Laveredo

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Ines Papert at the Anti Phil, Rifle Mountain Park, Colorado.Photo by Chris Van Leuven

Ines Papert repeats hardest route on North Face of Cima Grande di Laveredo

On July 20, Ines Papert of Bavaria, Germany, completed the first female (and third overall) free ascent of the 1,500-foot, 11-pitch Camillotto Pellisier (5.13c/d), the most difficult route on the Cima Grande di Lavaredo, located in the Dolomites. Pellisier was established, on aid, in 1967. Cima Grande has been immortalized as one of the “Six Great North Faces of the Alps” since its first ascent in the 1930’s. It has seen many storied ascents including by Alex Hubers’ free solo of the 20-pitch Direttissima, aka Hasse-Brandler (5.12a), in 2003.

“It’s unbelievable,” said Kurt Aster, who belayed Mauro “Bubu” Bole on the first free ascent of Pellisier, in 2004, and made a free ascent of the route in 2005. “[It starts with] 600 feet of severely overhanging climbing, mostly with solid holds.” Pellisier is protected entirely by old 6mm rivets and ancient pitons. However, the belays have been replaced with new bolts.

With Pellisier, Papert has solidified her position as one of the top women big-wall free climbers. Other such ascents include Yeah Man (5.14a) by Josune Bereziartu; Bravo Les Filles (VI 5.13d AO) [completed free at 5.14a by Iker Pou and team in 2004], by Lynn Hill, Nancy Feagin, Kath Pyke, and Beth Rodden; the Nose (VI 5.14a) by Lynn Hill, additionally by Beth Rodden; Lurking Fear (VI 5.13+) by Beth Rodden; and Steph Davis’ controversial send of the Salathè Wall (VI 5.13b/c).Comment on this story