July 2008 - 267

Avatar:
Author:
Publish date:
Social count:
0
Cover: Beth Rodden battles the barndoor on her Meltdown (5.14),

FEATURES

GALLERY Pawtuckaway granite — sweet boulders and bizzled trad — through the lens of New Hampshire homeboy Tim Kemple.

FANTASYLAND Veteran alpinist and trash-talker Kelly Cordes confronts his biggest hurdle yet — the “hippies” of Patagonia — after a quick detour up Cerro Torre with Colin Haley.By Kelly Cordes

THE ORIGINAL SPRAYLORD How did Albert Smith, a pudgy Englishman with only Mont Blanc to his credit, launch the sport of mountaineering 130 years ago? By inventing spray, of course. . . .By Martin Gutmann Illustration by Leighan Falley Sidebar by Luke Mehall

A GRAND IS NOT ENOUGH Ten peaks, 12,000 feet of vertical gain, crumbly rock, and restless weather — welcome to the Tetons’ Grand Traverse (V 5.8), seen here from the perspectives of client and mountain guide.By Jeff Burke, with Bill Liberatore Photos by Dave Ryan

THE TINKERER The greatest innovators are often the quiet ones — meet Doug Phillips, the Oregon boy and thin-crack-pro revolutionary who started Metolius Climbing a quarter-century ago.By Matt Samet

July 2008 - 267

DEPARTMENTS

CONTRIBUTORS Kelly Cordes, Leighan Falley, Martin Gutmann, Federica Valabrega

EDITORIAL A note from Climbing’s Art Director, Andy Outis

LETTERS BASECAMP HOT FLASHES OFF THE WALL PLAYERS JUST OUT TEN THINGS WHIPPED SPORTING LIFE SUSTAINED

CLASSIC CLIMBSMucho Pumpito (5.10b) — two pitches of overhanging Cuban bliss in the serene Viñales Valley

EQUIPMENT The 2008 rock-shoe review: 23 models stone-tested

TECH TIP Sport: click, clack, clip — three sporty clipping secrets of the de-gumbified former n00b

PERSPECTIVE Riccardo Cassin: alpinist, author, blacksmith, veteran; Lecco, Italy