Lachat Redpoints Papichulo (5.15a)
4/6/11 – News link: Swiss climber Cédric Lachat has redpointed Chris Sharma‘s Papichulo (5.15a) in Oliana, Spain. Sharma established Papichulo, a sustained, 45-meter line, in May 2008.
On Swiss girlfriend Nina Caprez’s blog, she says he had a "perfect ascent… He did one of his biggest fights of his life." Only a handful of climbers have climbed the route, including Adam Ondra (second ascent, 2009), Ramón Julian Puigblanque (2009), and Sachi Amma (2010).
That same day, Caprez sent Fish Eye (5.14b, another Sharma route), also at Oliana. She made quick work of her ascent, needing only five attempts in two days. "All the physical part in the bottom of the route I had to climb really quickly because I was out of power," she says. "But in the higher part I felt like in my element. Vertical, technical, little crimpy holds. This is my style."
Date of ascents: April 3, 2011