Litz Goes on 5.14 Spree at Ten Sleep

James Litz climbing at the Obed's Lily Boulders in Tennessee. Photos by Andrew Kornylak /
Read "The Legend of Litz and the Lilly Boulders" on

News Link: Ten Sleep Canyon in northern Wyoming is a popular destination for 5.9 to 5.13 routes on solid dolomite and limestone, but the 2009 edition of the guidebook did not list a single 5.14 climb. Time for a new guidebook: This summer, James Litz established at least seven 5.14 routes, including General Litzenheimer (5.14c/d) and Master of the Universe (5.14d). 

Alli Rainey has written a fun account of Litz’s climbing at Ten Sleep at the Petzl website. See photos of Litz and other climbers at the Ten Sleep Facebook page.  

Watch Cedar Wright’s video of Canadian-turned-Ten Sleep-local Kevin Wilkinson on another new 5.14 at

Dates of Ascents: Summer 2009 


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