Mascarenas, Fujii Take Bouldering World Cup Gold in Vail

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Megan Mascarenas Bouldering World Cup Vail Rock climbing

Megan Mascarenas in qualifiers. Photo: Andy Wickstrom / @andywickstrom / wickstromphoto.com

The IFSC Bouldering World Cup made its sixth stop in Vail, Colorado during the annual GoPro Mountain Games. The crowd cheered as a collection of the world's top competition boulderers made valiant attempts and impressive tops on a series of difficult problems. 

Reigning Vail champion, Megan Mascarenas, of Boulder, Colorado, took gold yet again with tops on all four problems, including a brilliant flash of W4, making the powerful moves seem almost effortless. She dominated the competition by flashing three of the routes and needing only two attempts on W3, which made her the only competitor to top the tricky slab. Shauna Coxsey (Great Britain) came in close behind with the silver, topping all problems apart from the devious W3. In third, was Austrian and World Cup regular, Anna Stöhr, who slipped by Melissa Le Neve (France) to make podium by number of attempts.

Megan Mascarenas Bouldering World Cup Vail Rock climbing

Mascarenas moves through the shouldery sequence of W1. Photo: Andy Wickstrom / @andywickstrom / wickstromphoto.com

In the men's division, Kokoro Fujii (Japan) took gold with teammate Tomoa Narasaki coming in second place, furthering the Japanese rampage represented earlier in qualifiers and semi-finals. Russia's Alexey Rubstov took the bronze just barely above Yoshijuki Ogata (Japan) and Rustam Gelmanov (Russia) who followed closely behind, both missing the bonus hold on M4. Had each of them made the hold, the two would have been placed above Rubstov. 

Highlights included Sean McColl's breakout attempt on M3, showing the crowd the wild beginning dyno into an iron cross, arms-only stem between two large volumes. He would go on to fall at the delicate, final reach to the top, which appeared to be the crux of the problem for many of the competitors. Immediately after McColl's attempt, Gelmanov had his shining moment on the problem, leaving route setters scratching their heads as he skipped the start dyno and right volume, opting instead to demonstrate his pinch strength by campusing up the volumes before topping the problem. Other impressive moments included Fujii's flash of M1 in which he casually stuck the final move which spit off every other competitor, and Rubstov's near make on the un-topped M2 where he fell going for the match on the final hold.

Sean McColl Bouldering World Cup Vail Rock climbing

Sean McColl inches towards the final hold on M3. Photo: Andy Wickstrom / @andywickstrom / wickstromphoto.com

Top moments for women included Megan Mascarena's top on W3 where she successfully navigated the difficult bonus hold match that shut down Shauna Coxsey, as well has her remarkably smooth flash of W4. Another crowd favorite was the onslaught of W1, which saw tops from all competitors except powerhouse Alex Puccio, who was battling a neck/shoulder injury sustained earlier in the competition. However, it did not stop her from making a stylish and powerful ascent of W2, drawing a fantastic response from the crowd.

In the overall standings, Shauna Coxsey is maintaining a commanding lead in the women's division with Miho Nonaka and Melissia Le Neve in second and third place, respectively. For the men, Kokoro Fujii resides in first, followed closely by Tomoa Narasaki, with Alexey Rubtsoz trailing not far behind in third.

Watch the full stream of the Vail Finals:

Women's Final Results:

  1. Megan Mascarenas (USA)
  2. Shaua Coxsey (Great Britain)
  3. Anna Stöhr (Austria)
  4. Melissa Le Neve (France)
  5. Miho Nonoka (Japan)
  6. Alex Puccio (USA)

Men's Final Results:

  1. Kokoro Fujii (Japan)
  2. Tomoa Narasaki (Japan)
  3. Alexey Rubtsov (Russia)
  4. Yoshiyuki Ogata (Japan)
  5. Rustam Gelmanov (Russia)
  6. Sean McColl (Canada)