GALLERY A Swiss col of summer dreams, footless 5.14- roof crack, elephant bouldering in Denmark, and Ten Sleep sweetness.
COCHISE WHISPERSA domeland wilderness in the Arizona desert that was once a hideout for the Chiricahua Apache — it’s Cochise Stronghold, where the ghosts of history and tradmasters of present mingle on some damned fine Southwestern granite.By Fitz Cahall Photos by James Q Martin
CATAVINA OR BUST!No, it’s not Rocklands, but the endless granite boulder fields of Catavina — Baja, Mexico — are still an explorer’s heaven.Introduction and Photos by Andrew Burr Journal Entries by Cody Roth and Abbey Smith
PHOBOPHOBIAFear is a universal part of climbing, but what’s driving the terror bus and how do you steer it where you need it to go? A journalist and a psychologist pull apart the monkey puzzle, with help from four top climbers.By Kristin Bjornsen and Fred Bryant, PhD
TOWER TO THE PEOPLETwenty-odd traddy pitches, 6,000 feet of vertical bashing, seven miles of hiking, and 25 miles of driving: it’s the Tower Tour, a one-day, five-tower Moab link-up even a coupla’ working joes can pull off.By Mike Brumbaugh Photos by Andrew Burr
CONTRIBUTORSDan Brazil, Mike Brumbaugh, Fred Bryant, PhD, and Michelle Duregger
EDITORIAL Don’t let your spring ticklist get in the way of your climbing.
JUST OUTGear-lover’s spring-bling fling — ka-ching, ka-ching!
HOT FLASHESInternational free-wallstravaganza, from Patagonia, to Mexico, to Norway; Hueco’s 2009 record-sending season; more. . . .
OFF THE WALLSilo classics in downtown Oklahoma City; The Red Swing Project, giving new (playful) life to old static lines; Overheard (!)
PLAYERS Jeff Noffsinger: the tireless trad-FA king of the Big South Fork
TEN THINGS . . .Hueco Tanks
ROADKILL A Minnesota climber’s single-minded, eight-year quest to climb the Nose
OPEN BIVYJoin Conrad Anker, the “Youth,” and “Lavender” on a mellow trip up the monster El Niño (VI 5.13c A0), El Capitan.
SUSTAINED Bolts + mixed-alpine climbs in Norway and Vermont = controversy
CLASSIC CLIMBSNortheast Ridge of the Pinnacle (III 5.7), Huntington Ravine, Mount Washington, New Hampshire: storied ridge-running in alpine New England
TECH TIPS Bouldering: buff up your spotting with eight turbo tips from the master, Corey Dwan.Training: unlock peak sending fitness with a heart-rate monitor.
MILEAGE Our new destination department, this issue lining out three recession-proof spring mega-areas
ANCHORED Meet Ted Lanzano, unflagging Anchor Replacement Initiative volunteer
PERSPECTIVE Lieutenant Colonel Earl Clark: Tetons pioneer, 10th Mountain veteran, frequenter of singles’ cruises; Denver, Colorado