May 2009 - 275

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Cover: Sarah Watson climbs sure on Uncertainty Principle (5.11), Cochise Stronghold, Arizona. Photo: James Q Martin / JamesQMartin.com

Cover: Sarah Watson climbs sure on Uncertainty Principle (5.11), Cochise Stronghold, Arizona. Photo: James Q Martin / JamesQMartin.com

FEATURES

GALLERY A Swiss col of summer dreams, footless 5.14- roof crack, elephant bouldering in Denmark, and Ten Sleep sweetness.

COCHISE WHISPERSA domeland wilderness in the Arizona desert that was once a hideout for the Chiricahua Apache — it’s Cochise Stronghold, where the ghosts of history and tradmasters of present mingle on some damned fine Southwestern granite.By Fitz Cahall Photos by James Q Martin

CATAVINA OR BUST!No, it’s not Rocklands, but the endless granite boulder fields of Catavina — Baja, Mexico — are still an explorer’s heaven.Introduction and Photos by Andrew Burr Journal Entries by Cody Roth and Abbey Smith

PHOBOPHOBIAFear is a universal part of climbing, but what’s driving the terror bus and how do you steer it where you need it to go? A journalist and a psychologist pull apart the monkey puzzle, with help from four top climbers.By Kristin Bjornsen and Fred Bryant, PhD

TOWER TO THE PEOPLETwenty-odd traddy pitches, 6,000 feet of vertical bashing, seven miles of hiking, and 25 miles of driving: it’s the Tower Tour, a one-day, five-tower Moab link-up even a coupla’ working joes can pull off.By Mike Brumbaugh Photos by Andrew Burr

May 2009 - 275

DEPARTMENTS

CONTRIBUTORSDan Brazil, Mike Brumbaugh, Fred Bryant, PhD, and Michelle Duregger

EDITORIAL Don’t let your spring ticklist get in the way of your climbing.

LETTERS

JUST OUTGear-lover’s spring-bling fling — ka-ching, ka-ching!

HOT FLASHESInternational free-wallstravaganza, from Patagonia, to Mexico, to Norway; Hueco’s 2009 record-sending season; more. . . .

OFF THE WALLSilo classics in downtown Oklahoma City; The Red Swing Project, giving new (playful) life to old static lines; Overheard (!)

PLAYERS Jeff Noffsinger: the tireless trad-FA king of the Big South Fork

TEN THINGS . . .Hueco Tanks

ROADKILL A Minnesota climber’s single-minded, eight-year quest to climb the Nose

OPEN BIVYJoin Conrad Anker, the “Youth,” and “Lavender” on a mellow trip up the monster El Niño (VI 5.13c A0), El Capitan.

SUSTAINED Bolts + mixed-alpine climbs in Norway and Vermont = controversy

CLASSIC CLIMBSNortheast Ridge of the Pinnacle (III 5.7), Huntington Ravine, Mount Washington, New Hampshire: storied ridge-running in alpine New England

TECH TIPS Bouldering: buff up your spotting with eight turbo tips from the master, Corey Dwan.Training: unlock peak sending fitness with a heart-rate monitor.

MILEAGE Our new destination department, this issue lining out three recession-proof spring mega-areas

ANCHORED Meet Ted Lanzano, unflagging Anchor Replacement Initiative volunteer

PERSPECTIVE Lieutenant Colonel Earl Clark: Tetons pioneer, 10th Mountain veteran, frequenter of singles’ cruises; Denver, Colorado