More 5.14 Ascents Go Down in U.S., Europe
Oddo needed 11 attempts to finish the route due to warm and humid conditions. He also climbed Southern Smoke (5.14c) at the Bob Marley crag. About a month ago, while still in France, Oddo made the second ascent of WRC at Castillon. Kévin Aglaé made the first ascent of the line, an extension to Alien Carnage (5.14c), in 2009. (Below is a video of Oddo on WRC.) According to kairn.com, Oddo has climbed 17 5.14d’s or harder.
Over in Spain, Daniel Jung of Germany redpointed Estado Critico in Siurana. Jung calls it “pumpy and really good climbing on the last meters” on his 8a.nu scorecard.
This is Jung’s fifth 5.14d, two of which are first ascents: Karamba and Jungle Speed, the latter of which also resides in Siurana.
Further west, Belgian climber Micha Vanhoudt climbed Erfolg ist trainierbar (5.14d) in Austria. The 115-foot route was originally climbed by Christian Helma in 1995 as a 5.14a. But the route became significantly harder after a hold broke, and it wasn’t until 2005 that Berni Fiedler re-climbed the line. Vanhoudt is the second Belgian climber to climb the grade; the first was Nico Favresse, who completed Estado Critico in 2004.
Dates of ascents: March-April 2012
- Climbing Launches iPad Edition
- The Nose Sees a New Female Speed Record
- Florine, Honnold Set New Nose Speed Record
- El Capitan Sees First All-Disabled Ascent
- Honnold, Florine Poised to Break Nose Speed Record