More 5.14 Ascents Go Down in U.S., Europe

Adam Ondra led the way, followed by Enzo Oddo, Jonathan Siegrist, Daniel Jung, and Micha Vanhoudt.
4/4/12 - In addition to Adam Ondra's new 5.14d, numerous other 5.14d ascents went down recently. Stateside, young French climber Enzo Oddo repeated Jonathan Siegrist's Pure Imagination at the Chocolate Factory in the Red River Gorge, Kentucky. Siegrist made the first ascent in November 2010, and the route has seen repeats by climbers like Adam Taylor, Sasha DiGiulian, and Jorg Verhoeven.

Oddo needed 11 attempts to finish the route due to warm and humid conditions. He also climbed Southern Smoke (5.14c) at the Bob Marley crag. About a month ago, while still in France, Oddo made the second ascent of WRC at Castillon. Kévin Aglaé made the first ascent of the line, an extension to Alien Carnage (5.14c), in 2009. (Below is a video of Oddo on WRC.) According to kairn.com, Oddo has climbed 17 5.14d's or harder.

Over in Spain, Daniel Jung of Germany redpointed Estado Critico in Siurana. Jung calls it "pumpy and really good climbing on the last meters" on his 8a.nu scorecard.

This is Jung's fifth 5.14d, two of which are first ascents: Karamba and Jungle Speed, the latter of which also resides in Siurana.

Further west, Belgian climber Micha Vanhoudt climbed Erfolg ist trainierbar (5.14d) in Austria. The 115-foot route was originally climbed by Christian Helma in 1995 as a 5.14a. But the route became significantly harder after a hold broke, and it wasn't until 2005 that Berni Fiedler re-climbed the line. Vanhoudt is the second Belgian climber to climb the grade; the first was Nico Favresse, who completed Estado Critico in 2004.

Dates of ascents: March-April 2012

Sources: ukclimbing.com, 8a.nu, kairn.com

WRC - Castillon from Fanatic Since 1995 on Vimeo.

 

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