Mountaineering and Ice Climbing News

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  • photo: visualimpact.ch | Thomas Senf

    Ice Machine: Dani Arnold Climbs 1115-Foot Ice Route in 27 Minutes (Video + Photos)

    1115 feet of vertical ice would be a full day for most climbers. On Crack Baby (IV WI 6), Dani Arnold did it in just 25 minutes and 13 seconds. The Swiss alpinist and mountain guide set the speed record for the route on March 9, 2014.

  • Recipients of 2014 Piolets d'Or: Ueli Steck, Ian Welsted, and Raphael Slawinski (left to right).

    Annapurna, K6 West Win Piolets d'Or

    3/29/14 - Ueli Steck (Switzerland), Raphael Slawinski, and Ian Welsted (both Canada) were awarded with Piolets d'Or—the Golden Ice Axe—for their climbs in 2013, in a ceremony in Courmayeur, Italy, on Saturday night.

  • Second pitch of Brainless Child. Photo by Tyler Adams.

    Major New Alpine Route for Oregon

    3/27/14 - Tyler Adams and Steve Elder have done the probable first ascent of the east face of Mt. Thielsen, a 9,183-foot volcano in the Cascades of southern Oregon, just north of Crater Lake National Park. They completed their route, Brainless Child (1,600', WI5+ 5.9X and "steep mush"), in one long day on March 22.

  • Ueli Steck (top) and Michi Wohlleben on the north face of Cima West.

    Steck, Wohlleben Link Three Dolomite North Faces in Winter

    3/25/14 - Ueli Steck and Michi Wohlleben have enchanined the classic north faces of the Tre Cime in the Italian Dolomites in less than 16 hours. This is the first time the Italian mini–big walls have been climbed back-to-back in winter.

  • Courtesy of Seanstanleyleary.com.

    Sean Leary Killed in BASE Accident

    3/24/14 - Sean "Stanley" Leary died in a BASE-jumping accident in or near Zion National Park, Utah, on March 13. Leary was due home yesterday, and when he failed to return a search was organized.

  • Ladders On Everest: Big Changes For A Big Mountain

    Facing dangerous conditions due to overcrowding, rising tensions, and ever-accumulating garbage, the Nepalese Tourism Ministry is introducing a list of new policies for Mount Everest, and discussing other changes.

  • The Diamond, with the approximate line of the winter speed record.

    New Winter Speed Record on the Diamond

    3/17/14 - Stanislav "Stanley" Vrba and Josh Wharton set a new speed record for climbing the Diamond wall on Longs Peak, Colorado, in winter. On March 14, the two skied about five miles to the foot of the 14,259-foot peak and then climbed the North Chimney and D7 routes, descended to their skis, and sped out to the car in a total of 10 hours 17 minutes.

  • Emilio Previtali (far right) snaps a photo of Polish climbers Tomek Mackiewicz, Pawel Dunaj, and Jacek Teler (left to right) before leaving Nanga Parbat base camp last Monday. The Poles stayed on for one more attempt. Photo by Emilio Previtali.

    Narrow Escape Ends Winter Season on Pakistan's Killer Mountain

    3/11/14 - Preparing for a last-ditch effort to complete the first winter ascent of 8,126-meter Nanga Parbat in Pakistan, two Polish climbers were avalanched and swept about 400 meters down the mountain. Both were injured but were rescued.

  • Jason Stuckey breaking trail toward the ridge on the first day of the French Ridge winter ascent. Mt. Huntington's summit is hidden in this foreshortened view of the long ridge. The west face, which the team descended, is visible on the right. Photo by Brad Farra. .

    First Winter Ascent on Mt. Huntington

    3/6/14 - Brad Farra, John Frieh, and Jason Stuckey completed the first winter ascent of the very long French Ridge on Mt. Huntington in early March.

  • The Olympic Park did not always have typical ice climbing weather. Photo by Alexey Dengin / UIAA.

    Tales from Sochi: Marc Beverly Represents U.S. on Olympic Ice

    3/4/14 - Sport climbing failed to make the cut for the 2020 Summer Olympic Games, but ice climbing may still have a shot at the Games. Ice climbing was prominently on display at the Olympic Park in Sochi, Russia, in February, and Marc Beverly was Team USA of one on Olympic ice

  • The new route up the northeast buttress of Mt. Laurens in Alaska, one of five climbs nominated for a Piolet d'Or

    Americans, Canadians Among Piolets d'Or Nominees

    2/27/14 - Five teams have been nominated for the annual Piolets d'Or, the golden ice axes celebrating top alpine ascents.

  • Angela VanWiemeersch and Scott Adamson celebrate another discovery in Zion's backcountry. Photo by Andrew Burr.

    Ice Climbing Bonanza in Zion National Park

    2/20/14 - In an extraordinary first-ascent binge, Scott Adamson and Angela VanWiemeersch climbed more than a dozen major new ice routes over two weeks in Zion National Park, Utah.