Mountaineering and Ice Climbing News

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  • Hiking in to Keeler Needle (center) at dawn on Day One of the 4x4. Photo by Aaron Richards.

    The 4x4: Croft's Big Four Sierra Routes Back to Back

    7/23/14 - When California-based guides Ian McEleney and Aaron Richards read about the "Big Four" Sierra Nevada alpine routes in Peter Croft's The Good, the Great, and the Awesome guidebook, a seed was planted. This summer that seed sprouted into an impressive endurance challenge: Climb all four of these Sierra classics back to back in four days.

  • HPNews

    Missing Climber Found After 32 Years In Ice

    On July 3, two Mont Blanc hikers stumbled upon the long-frozen body of Patrice Hyvert, a 23-year-old mountaineer who went missing on March 2, 1982 when he was trapped on the 15,781-foot mountain due to bad weather. Found at an elevation of 8,155 feet near the Couvercle mountain shelter, Hyvert's body was easily identified because not only was his body preserved in great condition because of the ice, but his identification card was still in his wallet.

  • Kiernan Parsons starting the second pitch on the summit pyramid of Peak 8,290.

    Anglo-Kiwi Pair Completes Three Alaskan First Ascents

    7/7/14 - In one of his frequent pilgrimages to the coastal mountains of Alaska, Paul Knott (U.K./New Zealand) teamed up with Kiernan Parsons, also from New Zealand, and managed three first ascents of peaks in Glacier Bay National Park.

  • John Stuckey starting a 5.8 choss pitch on the first day. Photo by Angela VanWiemeersch.

    Impressive Climb on Alaska's Mt. Hayes

    6/19/14 - John Giraldo, Jason Stuckey, and Angela VanWiemeersch climbed a new line to the south summit of Mt. Hayes in late April and then traversed over the main peak in an impressive three-day effort.

  • The West Buttress route on Denali.

    Kilian Jornet: Up and Down Denali in Under 12 Hours

    6/13/14 - The mountain runner Kilian Jornet has set a dramatic new speed record for climbing Denali, North America's highest peak. Jornet, who has been acclimatizing on Denali for the past several weeks, raced up and down the West Buttress route in 11 hours 40 minutes.

  • Jonas Haag and Mike Libecki celebrate their new route on Tower (back right). Photo by Mike Libecki.

    New Dog, Old Tricks on Baffin Island

    6/17/14 - Mike Libecki and Jonas Haag have climbed a 17-pitch new route on Baffin Island, making the first ascent of Lurking Tower. For Libecki, this was the sixth expedition to Baffin since his first climb in the Canadian Arctic 17 years ago. Remarkably, it was not only Haag's first time climbing on Baffin but also his first ever big-wall ascent.

  • Roskelly takes a break near midnight on the summit. Photo by John Frieh.

    Rad New Route on the Witches Tit in Southeast Alaska

    6/4/14 - John Frieh and Jess Roskelley have climbed a very hard new mixed route on the West Witches Tit during a brief trip to the Stikine Ice Cap in southeast Alaska.

  • Liberty Ridge is the shallow ridge line in center.

    Six Climbers Presumed Dead on Mt. Rainier

  • Kevin Cooper (left) and Ryan Jennings at the foot of the wall, exhausted but happy. Photo by Ryan Jennings.

    Bold Coloradans Climb Alaska Super Route

    5/30/14 - Coloradans Kevin Cooper and Ryan Jennings climbed the "route of a lifetime" in early May, making the first ascent of the direct north face of Mt. Johnson in Alaska's Ruth Gorge.

  • Ben Guigonnet leads the exit pitch at over 20,000 feet on the direct west face of Siula Chico. Photo courtesy of Fred Degoulet.

    French Climb Coveted New Route in Peru

    5/29/14 - A four-man French team has climbed the direct west face of Siula Chico (6,265m/20,554') in the Cordillera Huayhuash, one of the most difficult and coveted lines in Peru.

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    Climber's Himalayan Rescue Plays out Live on Facebook (Warning: Graphic)

    On May 19, John All fell 70 feet down a crevasse on Mount Himlung in Nepal. He broke five ribs, an arm, dislocated a shoulder and suffered some internal bleeding during the fall. Luckily, he stopped on a three-foot ledge, from which he was able to climb out of the crevasse over the course of six hours with the help of his ice axe. What makes this story extra remarkable, beyond All's miraculous survival and recovery, is that the events were broadcasted in real-time via Facebook.

  • Josh Wharton (left) and pilot Will Mayo sporting oxygen mustaches for the 19-hour, ca. 2,500-mile flight to Talkeetna, Alaska. Photo by Josh Wharton.

    Classy New Climbs in Alaska's Huntington Group

    5/21/14 - Two new routes have been climbed on Mt. Huntington and its smaller neighbor, "Idiot Peak," each in unique and compelling style.