Mountaineering and Ice Climbing News

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  • President's Gold Medal winner Fred Beckey. Photo courtesy American Alpine Club Archives.

    Fred Beckey to be Awarded Rare AAC Gold Medal

    The American Alpine Club (AAC) has announced its 2015 award recipients. Every year the AAC recognizes outstanding achievements in conservation, climbing, and service to the climbing community. This year the Club will also bestow its rare President's Gold Medal to Fred Beckey.

  • Fred Beckey (left) and Eric Bjornstad celebrating a first ascent in Monument Valley in the 1960s. Eric Bjornstad Collection.

    Desert Pioneer Eric Bjornstad Has Died

    12/17/14 - Eric Bjornstad has passed away after a long illness. The longtime resident of Moab, Utah, wrote the original comprehensive guidebook to rock climbing on the Colorado Plateau, Desert Rock, first published in 1988 and later expanded to four volumes.

  • Kendra Stritch celebrates her first-ever U.S. gold in a UIAA Ice World Cup. Photo by Max Lowe / UIAA.

    Bozeman Ice World Cup Results

    12/14/14 - Kendra Stritch took gold at the UIAA Ice Climbing World Cup, winning the speed event at the Bozeman Ice Festival on Friday. In the difficulty comp, two Canadians—Gord McArthur and Sarah Hueniken—made finals and earned the title of North American champions.

  • The stunning southern pillar of Cerro San Lorenzo rises at least 3,500 feet high. Colin Haley and Rob Smith climbed Aguja Antipasto, in lower left, on November 21. Photo courtesy of Colin Haley.

    First Ascent of Striking Spire in Wild Patagonia

    12/10/14 - Colin Haley and Rob Smith did the first ascent of a 14-pitch granite needle in remote northern Patagonia—a consolation prize after poor conditions prevented them from attempting the unclimb

  • Lonnie Dupre on Denali's West Buttress. Photo: Oneworldendeavors.com.

    K2, Nanga Parbat, Denali: Winter Attempts Planned

    11/25/14 - Only two 8,000-meter peaks have never been climbed in winter, and both are expected to see attempts this season. In Alaska, meanwhile, two soloists will attempt midwinter ascents of North America’s highest peak.

  • Alan Rousseau heading up the mile-high west face of Tengi Ragi Tau in Nepal. Photo by Tino Villanueva.

    Americans Bag New Route in Nepal

    11/29/14 - Mountain guides Alan Rousseau and Tino Villanueva climbed a new route on a 20,000-foot peak in Nepal and made a solid attempt on a higher peak.

  • Ryan Vachon on Jedi Mind Tricks (M14) near Lake City, Colorado. Photo by Beth Goralski.

    Ryan Vachon Sends Jedi Mind Tricks (M14)

    11/11/14 - Ryan Vachon, a 42-year-old climate scientist, has redpointed Jedi Mind Tricks outside Lake City, Colorado, making the probable fifth ascent and only the second without using heel spurs on his crampons.

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    Valley Uprising Wins Banff Grand Prize

    11/10/14 - "Valley Uprising," the documentary of Yosemite climbing culture directed by Nick Rosen, Peter Mortimer, and Josh Lowell, has won the grand prize at the Banff Mountain Film Festival. The 90-minute film, produced by Zachary Barr and Sender Films, is currently showing worldwide in the 2014 Reel Rock tour.

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    British Alpinist's Remarkable Book Wins Banff Award

    11/7/14 - The grand prize at the annual Banff Mountain Book Festival has gone to John Porter's One Day as a Tiger: Alex Macintyre and the Birth of Light and Fast Alpinism.

  • Selfie on the summit of Daugou East in China. Photo by Pat Goodman.

    American-Brazilian Pair Bag Three New Routes in China

    11/4/14 - This fall Pat Goodman returned to Sichuan for his sixth attempt on the unclimbed 900-meter west face of Seerdengpu. That didn’t pan out, but Goodman and his Brazilian partner, Marcos Costa, still managed three first ascents.

  • U.K. climber Greg Boswell partway up the Red Bull White Cliffs course. The route began by exiting the left side of the giant cave at the bottom. Photo by Calum Muskett.

    Climbers Race Up 400-Foot Chalk Cliffs

    10/20/14 - Leave it to Red Bull to dream up this unique competition: The Red Bull White Cliffs event last weekend pitted 10 top mixed climbers against a 400-foot vertical to overhanging wall of chalk in southern England. The friendly competition was staged a race, but the route was so steep and technical that most climbers took 20 minutes or more to complete the route.

  • Mayo Ups the Ante on Colorado's Black Wall

    10/13/14 - Will Mayo has redpointed The Ghost (M10 WI6), a traditionally protected mixed climb at over 13,000 feet on the Black Wall, near Mt. Evans. The route is his second early-season new route of the year, and his third difficult mixed climb on the same cliff in the past 13 months.