Mountaineering and Ice Climbing News

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    Will Gadd Climbs First Ascent of Niagara Falls Ice (Photos + Videos)

    1/30/15 - On January 27, Will Gadd climbed a 147-foot ice route just to the left of the iconic Horseshoe Falls at Niagara Falls, right on the border of the United States and Canada. Gadd climbed the route three times, each time spending about an hour on the ice, and he estimates the difficulty at a steep WI6+. On warmer years the route doesn't form at all. This year was cold enough, but Gadd said it wasn't so much ice, as layers of ice, snow, and air. Not ideal. And then, of course, there are the falls. At times he was close enough to dip his tools in the flow.

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    Lonnie Dupre Summits Denali

    1/12/15 - Minnesota-based adventurer Lonnie Dupre has reached the summit of Denali. Dupre topped out on North America's highest point on January 11, on his fourth attempt to become the first person to solo Denali in January.

  • Sasha DiGiulian getting the feel of dry tooling in East Vail, Colorado. Photo by Alexandro Rojas Sanders.

    Sasha DiGiulian Will Compete on Ouray Ice

    1/6/15 - Sasha DiGiulian, who cranks 5.14 on rock, is mixing it up this winter and trying out ice and mixed climbing in Colorado. DiGiulian has been coached by Will Mayo in a weeklong “boot camp” at the mixed-climbing crags in East Vail and Ouray, and this weekend she will compete at the annual Ouray Ice Festival.

  • Kilian Jornet passes Plaza de Mules base camp en route to the summit of Aconcagua during his record-setting run. Photo courtesy of Summits of My Life.

    Kilian Jornet Smashes Aconcagua Speed Record

    12/23/14 - The extraordinary mountain runner Kilian Jornet has set a dramatic record for climbing and descending 22,841-foot Aconcagua. Jornet ran up and down the Normal Route, starting at the Argentine peak’s Horcones trailhead on the south side of the mountain, in 12 hours 49 minutes.

  • President's Gold Medal winner Fred Beckey. Photo courtesy American Alpine Club Archives.

    Fred Beckey to be Awarded Rare AAC Gold Medal

    The American Alpine Club (AAC) has announced its 2015 award recipients. Every year the AAC recognizes outstanding achievements in conservation, climbing, and service to the climbing community. This year the Club will also bestow its rare President's Gold Medal to Fred Beckey.

  • Fred Beckey (left) and Eric Bjornstad celebrating a first ascent in Monument Valley in the 1960s. Eric Bjornstad Collection.

    Desert Pioneer Eric Bjornstad Has Died

    12/17/14 - Eric Bjornstad has passed away after a long illness. The longtime resident of Moab, Utah, wrote the original comprehensive guidebook to rock climbing on the Colorado Plateau, Desert Rock, first published in 1988 and later expanded to four volumes.

  • Kendra Stritch celebrates her first-ever U.S. gold in a UIAA Ice World Cup. Photo by Max Lowe / UIAA.

    Bozeman Ice World Cup Results

    12/14/14 - Kendra Stritch took gold at the UIAA Ice Climbing World Cup, winning the speed event at the Bozeman Ice Festival on Friday. In the difficulty comp, two Canadians—Gord McArthur and Sarah Hueniken—made finals and earned the title of North American champions.

  • The stunning southern pillar of Cerro San Lorenzo rises at least 3,500 feet high. Colin Haley and Rob Smith climbed Aguja Antipasto, in lower left, on November 21. Photo courtesy of Colin Haley.

    First Ascent of Striking Spire in Wild Patagonia

    12/10/14 - Colin Haley and Rob Smith did the first ascent of a 14-pitch granite needle in remote northern Patagonia—a consolation prize after poor conditions prevented them from attempting the unclimb

  • Lonnie Dupre on Denali's West Buttress. Photo: Oneworldendeavors.com.

    K2, Nanga Parbat, Denali: Winter Attempts Planned

    11/25/14 - Only two 8,000-meter peaks have never been climbed in winter, and both are expected to see attempts this season. In Alaska, meanwhile, two soloists will attempt midwinter ascents of North America’s highest peak.

  • Alan Rousseau heading up the mile-high west face of Tengi Ragi Tau in Nepal. Photo by Tino Villanueva.

    Americans Bag New Route in Nepal

    11/29/14 - Mountain guides Alan Rousseau and Tino Villanueva climbed a new route on a 20,000-foot peak in Nepal and made a solid attempt on a higher peak.

  • Ryan Vachon on Jedi Mind Tricks (M14) near Lake City, Colorado. Photo by Beth Goralski.

    Ryan Vachon Sends Jedi Mind Tricks (M14)

    11/11/14 - Ryan Vachon, a 42-year-old climate scientist, has redpointed Jedi Mind Tricks outside Lake City, Colorado, making the probable fifth ascent and only the second without using heel spurs on his crampons.

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    Valley Uprising Wins Banff Grand Prize

    11/10/14 - "Valley Uprising," the documentary of Yosemite climbing culture directed by Nick Rosen, Peter Mortimer, and Josh Lowell, has won the grand prize at the Banff Mountain Film Festival. The 90-minute film, produced by Zachary Barr and Sender Films, is currently showing worldwide in the 2014 Reel Rock tour.