Mountaineering and Ice Climbing News

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    DiGiulian and Traversi Climb Eiger Free Route

    August 29, 2015 - After spending most of the month attempting to free a 5.13 rock route up the north face of the Eiger in Switzerland, Sasha DiGiulian and Carlo Traversi have redpointed Magic Mushroom, a 20-pitch 5.13a on the far right side of the wall.

  • American Team Bags Two First Ascents in Pakistan

    American Team Bags Two First Ascents in Pakistan

    August 26 - Scott Bennett and Graham Zimmerman have completed a new route on K6 West, a 7,040-meter (23,097-foot) peak in the Karakoram that had only been climbed once before. Earlier in the trip, they made the first ascent of Changi Tower (6,500 meters), along with Steve Swenson.

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    Climb of the Week: The Tom Egan Memorial

    August 23, 2015 - The most inspirational climb this week undoubtedly was Will Stanhope’s send of the Tom Egan Memorial, the free version of an old route on the east face of Snowpatch Spire in Canada’s Bugaboos.

  • Will Stanhope on the dead-vertical east face of Snowpatch Spire. Photo by Ines Papert.

    Stanhope Redpoints Bugaboos' Hardest Free Climb

    August 17, 2015 - Canadian Will Stanhope has redpointed the Tom Egan Memorial Route on the east face of Snowpatch Spire in the Bugaboos. Climbing with his longtime partner on the project, Matt Segal from the U.S., Stanhope completed the climb over four days, grading it V 5.14.

  • Ueli Steck and TK TK on the summit of TK in TK. Courtesy of Ueli Steck.

    Climb of the Week: Ueli Steck’s 82 Alpine Summits

    August 16, 2015 - This past week’s most inpirational climb was actually a bunch of climbs, concluding two months of serious effort in the Alps. Early Tuesday morning, Swiss speedster Ueli Steck finished his goal of climbing all 82 of the Alps’ 4,000-meter peaks without motorized assistance.

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    Link Sar: Success on Fourth Year of Attempts

    July 28, 2015 - Score one for perseverance: Alpinist and photographer Jon Griffith and partner Andy Houseman, both from Great Britain, reached the western summit of Link Sar in Pakistan during a seven-day climb.

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    Seven Summits Pioneer Dick Bass Has Died

    July 27, 2015 - Richard Bass, the founder of Snowbird Ski Resort in Utah and first man to climb the Seven Sumimits, has died at age 85.

  • 10 Things You May Not Know About the Matterhorn

    10 Things You May Not Know About the Matterhorn

    To celebrate today’s 150th anniversary of the Matterhorn’s first ascent, we present 10 fun facts about Europe’s most famous summit.

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    Andrew Hamilton Shatters Colorado 14ers Speed Record

    Colorado has 58 mountains that top out at or over 14,000 feet in elevation, and many a weekend warrior flock from all over to attempt to summit them. But today Andrew Hamilton, a 40-year-old Denver native, broke the world record for fastest consecutive ascent of all of Colorado’s 14ers in an insane 9 days, 21 hours and 51 minutes.

  • This screen shot from the Half Dome Interactive Map webpage, by Mark P. Thomas, shows the estimated area of the recent rockfall on Half Dome. Photo by Mark P. Thomas.

    Key Section of Famed Half Dome Route Falls Off

    7/6/15 - A significant section of the Regular Northwest Face route on Half Dome has fallen off, likely making the route unclimbable in its current condition.

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    Drone Attack: The Ingenious First Ascent of Colorado’s Highest Unclimbed Peak

    Three climbers use a drone to haul a rope over an unclimbed peak in Colorado, allowing them to make the first ascent.

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    (Sponsored) Sufferfest: Climbing California's 14ers by Bike

  • Unbelayvable: Rappelling Ain't Easy

    Unbelayvable: Rappelling Ain't Easy

    "My friend was the last person up our toprope and was cleaning the anchors. He intended to rappel, but he failed to feed both strands of rope through his tube style-belay device, only clipping catching one strand instead. As soon as he leaned back, the rope started zipping through the anchor."

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    Explore This Amazingly Detailed Photo of the Alps

    A new 365-gigapixel panoramic photo reveals the Western Alps’ most famous mountains in stunning detail.

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    Dean Potter: Five Short Climbing Films

    In this collection of short films, we celebrate Dean Potter's mastery of rock climbing.

  • Photo courtesy of Deanspotter.com.

    Dean Potter, Graham Hunt Killed in BASE Jump

    5/17/15 - Dean Potter and Graham Hunt died after their wingsuit flight in Yosemite National Park went badly wrong.

  • Brits Climb Mt. Deborah’s Northwest Face

    5/8/15 - British climbers Jon Griffith and Will Sim have made the first ascent of the northwest face of Mt. Deborah, a seldom-climbed, 12,339-foot peak in the Hayes Range, a group of mountains at the eastern end of the Alaska Range.

  • Six Teams Win Shipton-Tilman Grants

    5/7/15 - Gore-Tex has announced the winners of its 25th annual Shipton-Tilman Grants, given to small teams pursuing big objectives with minimal impact, in the spirit of the great British mountaineers Eric Shipton and Bill Tilman. Six expeditions, with members mostly from the U.S. and Great Britain, will split $20,000 in grant money.

  • First Ascents in Alaska’s Wild Revelation Mountains

    5/4/15 - Two teams found success in Alaska’s remote Revelation Mountains in April, climbing major new routes on two peaks.

  • Jens Holsten on the first pitch of the Chad Kellogg Memorial Route on Argonaut Peak. Photo by Vern Nelson Jr.

    New Route: The Chad Kellogg Memorial

    Jens Holsten and Vern Nelson Jr. have climbed a new route on the north face of Argonaut Peak in Washington’s Stuart Range and dedicated it to the late Chad Kellogg. Holsten was with Kellogg when he was killed by rockfall while descending from the summit of Fitz Roy in February 2014.

  • Dani Arnold Breaks Matterhorn Speed Record (Video + Photos)

    Dani Arnold Breaks Matterhorn Speed Record (Video + Photos)

    4/30/15 - On Wednesday, April 22 Swiss climber Dani Arnold successfully climbed the Matterhorn's North Face in a new record time of one hour and 46 minutes. Arnold's time knocked ten minutes off the previous record, set by Ueli Steck in 2009. Arnold climbed free solo following the Schmid route, same as Steck, but with a different variation up top.

  • Nepal: Death Toll Rises, How You Can Help

    Everest Earthquake: All Climbers and Sherpas are Off the Mountain

    After inspection of the Khumbu Icefall by helicopter and by foot from below and from above, it was determined that the route was too broken up and risk too great to descend by foot. All climbers trapped in camps one and two have been evacuated by helicopter.

  • Nepal: Death Toll Rises, How You Can Help

    Nepal: Death Toll Rises, How You Can Help

    Yesterday, just before noon, a 7.9 magnitude quake struck northeast Nepal, causing widespread damage and triggering an avalanche which swept through Everest basecamp. It’s the region’s worst earthquake since 1932, when an 8.2 magnitude quake killed upwards of 12,000 people.

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    Climber Andy Tyson Killed in Plane Crash

    4/11/15 - Four men were killed in a plane crash Friday in northern Idaho, and the victims included well-known climber Andy Tyson.

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    First Ascent and Shiver Bivy on Alaska’s Mt. Dickey

    3/25/15 - John Frieh, from Portland, Oregon, teamed up with Alaskans Chad Diesinger and Jason Stuckey to climb a new route on the far right side of Mt. Dickey’s east face. Blue Collar Beatdown (V WI4 M4 65° snow) required 48 hours of effort, minus a four-hour ‘sit and suffer.’

  • Video: Sasha DiGiulian's First Foray into Ice and Mixed Climbing

    Video: Sasha DiGiulian's First Foray into Ice and Mixed Climbing

    In January 2015, Sasha DiGiulian teamed up with ice master Will Mayo for a crash course in ice and mixed climbing. She did surprisingly well, topping an M10 route during her first week. Soon after, DiGiulian competed at the Ouray Ice Festival, though she did not place. This video documents her rapid rise in winter climbing.

  • The Fitz Traverse, completed by Tommy Caldwell and Alex Honnold last February. Photo by Rolando Garibotti, courtesy of American Alpine Journal.

    Piolets d'Or for Caldwell and Honnold

    3/5/15 - The 23rd annual Piolets d’Or is shaking things up and announcing the recipients of the annual prizes for alpinism in advance, including Tommy Caldwell and Alex Honnold.

  • Ski the Flatirons! Pair Descends Boulder’s Iconic Landmark

    Ski the Flatirons! Pair Descends Boulder’s Iconic Landmark

    2/4/15 - After more than a week of steady snowfall, Alex Krull and Austin Porzak skied the right side of the First Flatiron, the landmark slab formation above Boulder, Colorado, on March 1.

  • Leclerc, Honnold, Haley: Amazing Solo, Magnificent Failure

    Leclerc, Honnold, Haley: Amazing Solo, Magnificent Failure

    2/24/15 - Continuing his extraordinary season in the Chaltén massif of Patagonia, the Canadian climber Marc-André Leclerc soloed the Corkscrew Route on Cerro Torre, linking the southeast ridge to the upper west face via an exposed traverse over the enormous south face of the spire.

  • Aconcagua Speed Record Smashed Again

    Aconcagua Speed Record Smashed Again

    The Ecuadoran-Swiss mountain runner Karl Egloff has reportedly set a bold new mark for the ascent and descent of Aconcagua.

  • The southwest side of Hathi Parbat in India. Photo by Alok Prasad / Wikipedia Commons.

    AAC Backs Four Cutting-Edge Expeditions

    2/12/15 - The American Alpine Club has named four recipients of its annual Lyman Spitzer Cutting Edge Awards, a grant for small teams attempting bold first ascents.

  • Mark Miller. Photo by Claudia López.

    Fallen Guide Mark Miller: Remembering a Legend

    2/4/15 - When climbing guide Mark Miller died in a fall last Friday, January 30, the accident left an outsized hole in the tiny community of Ouray, Colorado.

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    Climb of the Century? 7 Groundbreaking Ascents (Besides the Dawn Wall)

    2/2/15 - As the media frenzy swelled through January, both climbing and mass-market writers repeatedly called the Dawn Wall the "climb of the century." But are there other contenders?

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    Will Gadd Climbs First Known Ascent of Niagara Falls Ice (Photos + Videos)

    1/30/15 - On January 27, Will Gadd and Sarah Hueniken climbed a 147-foot ice route just to the left of the iconic Horseshoe Falls at Niagara Falls, right up the border of the United States and Canada. The team climbed the route three times, each time spending about an hour on the ice with Gadd leading and Hueniken cleaning. Gadd estimates the difficulty at a steep WI6+. Much of the challenge came from the routes objective hazards. On warmer years it doesn't form at all. This year was cold enough, but Gadd said it wasn't so much ice, as layers of ice, snow, and air. Not ideal. And then, of course, there are the falls. At times he was close enough to dip his tools in the flow.

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    Lonnie Dupre Summits Denali

    1/12/15 - Minnesota-based adventurer Lonnie Dupre has reached the summit of Denali. Dupre topped out on North America's highest point on January 11, on his fourth attempt to become the first person to solo Denali in January.

  • Sasha DiGiulian getting the feel of dry tooling in East Vail, Colorado. Photo by Alexandro Rojas Sanders.

    Sasha DiGiulian Will Compete on Ouray Ice

    1/6/15 - Sasha DiGiulian, who cranks 5.14 on rock, is mixing it up this winter and trying out ice and mixed climbing in Colorado. DiGiulian has been coached by Will Mayo in a weeklong “boot camp” at the mixed-climbing crags in East Vail and Ouray, and this weekend she will compete at the annual Ouray Ice Festival.

  • Kilian Jornet passes Plaza de Mules base camp en route to the summit of Aconcagua during his record-setting run. Photo courtesy of Summits of My Life.

    Kilian Jornet Smashes Aconcagua Speed Record

    12/23/14 - The extraordinary mountain runner Kilian Jornet has set a dramatic record for climbing and descending 22,841-foot Aconcagua. Jornet ran up and down the Normal Route, starting at the Argentine peak’s Horcones trailhead on the south side of the mountain, in 12 hours 49 minutes.

  • President's Gold Medal winner Fred Beckey. Photo courtesy American Alpine Club Archives.

    Fred Beckey to be Awarded Rare AAC Gold Medal

    The American Alpine Club (AAC) has announced its 2015 award recipients. Every year the AAC recognizes outstanding achievements in conservation, climbing, and service to the climbing community. This year the Club will also bestow its rare President's Gold Medal to Fred Beckey.

  • Fred Beckey (left) and Eric Bjornstad celebrating a first ascent in Monument Valley in the 1960s. Eric Bjornstad Collection.

    Desert Pioneer Eric Bjornstad Has Died

    12/17/14 - Eric Bjornstad has passed away after a long illness. The longtime resident of Moab, Utah, wrote the original comprehensive guidebook to rock climbing on the Colorado Plateau, Desert Rock, first published in 1988 and later expanded to four volumes.

  • Kendra Stritch celebrates her first-ever U.S. gold in a UIAA Ice World Cup. Photo by Max Lowe / UIAA.

    Bozeman Ice World Cup Results

    12/14/14 - Kendra Stritch took gold at the UIAA Ice Climbing World Cup, winning the speed event at the Bozeman Ice Festival on Friday. In the difficulty comp, two Canadians—Gord McArthur and Sarah Hueniken—made finals and earned the title of North American champions.

  • The stunning southern pillar of Cerro San Lorenzo rises at least 3,500 feet high. Colin Haley and Rob Smith climbed Aguja Antipasto, in lower left, on November 21. Photo courtesy of Colin Haley.

    First Ascent of Striking Spire in Wild Patagonia

    12/10/14 - Colin Haley and Rob Smith did the first ascent of a 14-pitch granite needle in remote northern Patagonia—a consolation prize after poor conditions prevented them from attempting the unclimb

  • Lonnie Dupre on Denali's West Buttress. Photo: Oneworldendeavors.com.

    K2, Nanga Parbat, Denali: Winter Attempts Planned

    11/25/14 - Only two 8,000-meter peaks have never been climbed in winter, and both are expected to see attempts this season. In Alaska, meanwhile, two soloists will attempt midwinter ascents of North America’s highest peak.

  • Alan Rousseau heading up the mile-high west face of Tengi Ragi Tau in Nepal. Photo by Tino Villanueva.

    Americans Bag New Route in Nepal

    11/29/14 - Mountain guides Alan Rousseau and Tino Villanueva climbed a new route on a 20,000-foot peak in Nepal and made a solid attempt on a higher peak.

  • Ryan Vachon on Jedi Mind Tricks (M14) near Lake City, Colorado. Photo by Beth Goralski.

    Ryan Vachon Sends Jedi Mind Tricks (M14)

    11/11/14 - Ryan Vachon, a 42-year-old climate scientist, has redpointed Jedi Mind Tricks outside Lake City, Colorado, making the probable fifth ascent and only the second without using heel spurs on his crampons.

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    Valley Uprising Wins Banff Grand Prize

    11/10/14 - "Valley Uprising," the documentary of Yosemite climbing culture directed by Nick Rosen, Peter Mortimer, and Josh Lowell, has won the grand prize at the Banff Mountain Film Festival. The 90-minute film, produced by Zachary Barr and Sender Films, is currently showing worldwide in the 2014 Reel Rock tour.

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    British Alpinist's Remarkable Book Wins Banff Award

    11/7/14 - The grand prize at the annual Banff Mountain Book Festival has gone to John Porter's One Day as a Tiger: Alex Macintyre and the Birth of Light and Fast Alpinism.

  • Selfie on the summit of Daugou East in China. Photo by Pat Goodman.

    American-Brazilian Pair Bag Three New Routes in China

    11/4/14 - This fall Pat Goodman returned to Sichuan for his sixth attempt on the unclimbed 900-meter west face of Seerdengpu. That didn’t pan out, but Goodman and his Brazilian partner, Marcos Costa, still managed three first ascents.

  • U.K. climber Greg Boswell partway up the Red Bull White Cliffs course. The route began by exiting the left side of the giant cave at the bottom. Photo by Calum Muskett.

    Climbers Race Up 400-Foot Chalk Cliffs

    10/20/14 - Leave it to Red Bull to dream up this unique competition: The Red Bull White Cliffs event last weekend pitted 10 top mixed climbers against a 400-foot vertical to overhanging wall of chalk in southern England. The friendly competition was staged a race, but the route was so steep and technical that most climbers took 20 minutes or more to complete the route.

  • Mayo Ups the Ante on Colorado's Black Wall

    10/13/14 - Will Mayo has redpointed The Ghost (M10 WI6), a traditionally protected mixed climb at over 13,000 feet on the Black Wall, near Mt. Evans. The route is his second early-season new route of the year, and his third difficult mixed climb on the same cliff in the past 13 months.

  • Will Mayo at the top of the crux section of Shooting Star (M9 WI7), a new route on Colorado's Black Wall. Photo by Ben Collett.

    It's On! Desperate Early-Season Mixed Route in Colorado

    10/3/14 - Taking advantage of an early-season snowstorm and freezing temps, Will Mayo and Ben Collett bagged the first ascent of a desperate traditional mixed route on the Black Wall, near Mt. Evans, Colorado. Shooting Star (2 pitches, M9 WI7) tackles a huge roof to the left of the 2013 Collett-Mayo route Silhouette (M9 WI6+).