Mountaineering and Ice Climbing News

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  • U.K. climber Greg Boswell partway up the Red Bull White Cliffs course. The route began by exiting the left side of the giant cave at the bottom. Photo by Calum Muskett.

    Climbers Race Up 400-Foot Chalk Cliffs

    10/20/14 - Leave it to Red Bull to dream up this unique competition: The Red Bull White Cliffs event last weekend pitted 10 top mixed climbers against a 400-foot vertical to overhanging wall of chalk in southern England. The friendly competition was staged a race, but the route was so steep and technical that most climbers took 20 minutes or more to complete the route.

  • Mayo Ups the Ante on Colorado's Black Wall

    10/13/14 - Will Mayo has redpointed The Ghost (M10 WI6), a traditionally protected mixed climb at over 13,000 feet on the Black Wall, near Mt. Evans. The route is his second early-season new route of the year, and his third difficult mixed climb on the same cliff in the past 13 months.

  • Will Mayo at the top of the crux section of Shooting Star (M9 WI7), a new route on Colorado's Black Wall. Photo by Ben Collett.

    It's On! Desperate Early-Season Mixed Route in Colorado

    10/3/14 - Taking advantage of an early-season snowstorm and freezing temps, Will Mayo and Ben Collett bagged the first ascent of a desperate traditional mixed route on the Black Wall, near Mt. Evans, Colorado. Shooting Star (2 pitches, M9 WI7) tackles a huge roof to the left of the 2013 Collett-Mayo route Silhouette (M9 WI6+).

  • Approaching one of the largest crevasses on Volcan Aguilera. Photo by Evan Miles.

    First Ascent of Much-Tried Patagonian Peak

    9/30/14 - An international expedition has done the first ascent of one of Patagonia's most isolated summits, in the middle of winter. Volcan Aguilera was the last major volcano in the Andes to be climbed—it had been attempted six times since the mid-1980s.

  • Will Mayo on the Existensionalist in the abandoned mining tunnel called the Ghetto. Photo by Ryan Vachon.

    Will Mayo Sends Desperate Dry-Tool Route in Crazy Tunnel Called the Ghetto

    9/10/14 - Who needs ice and cold for dry tooling? In Colorado's summer heat, Will Mayo has just redpointed what's likely one of the hardest dry-tooling routes in the country.

  • The north face of Slesse Mountain. Green: East Pillar. Red: Navigator Wall. Yellow: Northeast Buttress. Blue: Southeast Buttress of South Summit. Photo courtesy of Marc-Andre Leclerc.

    Three Round Trips on Slesse's East Side in 12 Hours

    9/5/14 - Marc-Andre Leclerc has free-soloed three different routes on the east side of Slesse Mountain in British Columbia in a day, completing the round trip from his bivouac site in a little over 12 hours.

  • Nik Berry climbing the A3 Beauty pitch on Hooker in 2013. Photo by Dave Allfrey.

    Mt. Hooker Free For All

    8/28/14 - The 1,800-foot north face of Mt. Hooker is one of the most imposing and remote big walls in the Lower 48. This August it was the scene of three impressive free climbs.

  • Bran McCray on the classic Desert Gold (5.13a) in Red Rock, near his Las Vegas home. Photo courtesy of ClimbingResoles.com.

    Fly'n Brian McCray Passes On

    8/25/14 - Brian McCray, a prolific big-wall and free climber, and founder and operator of Fly'n Brian's Resoles, has passed away.

  • Aiguille d'Argentière, as seen from the nearby Aiguille du Chardonnet. Photo: alpiniste/Flickr; http://ow.ly/AimHP

    Six Climbers Killed In Fall On Mont Blanc

    8/13/14 - A group of climbers was found dead today after being reported missing Tuesday en route on the Aiguille d'Argentière in the Mont Blanc massif. The team was on an outing with the Union Nationale des Centres Sportifs de Plein Air (UCPA), a French nonprofit that makes outdoor trips available to people age 7 to 39. This group contained four men and one woman, between the ages of 27 and 45, and was led by a fully licensed guide. The investigation is still underway, but it's thought that the team summited the mountain, and then fell 820 feet while roped together during the descent.

  • Dani Arnold on the famed Hinterstoisser Traverse on the Eiger north face, with the 360° camera poking out of his pack. Photo by Photopress / Daniel Bartsch

    Behind the Scenes With Mammut's Incredible 360° Photos of Eiger North Face

    8/12/14 - Using custom-made 360° camera technology, Mammut has produced a remarkable documentation of the original 1938 Route on the north face of the Eiger. Swiss alpinists Dani Arnold and Stephan Siegrist climbed the route over two days in April, each carrying a 17.5-pound system combining their pack, a six-lens GoPro-designed camera, and extendable boom.

  • High point of the 2014 attempt on the Hummingbird Ridge of Mt. Logan. Photo by Mark Smiley / SmileysProject.com

    Yukon Reality: 50 Classics Teams Stall on Logan, St. Elias

    8/4/14 - The two teams chasing the "Fifty Classic Climbs of North America," the collector's list of big rock and alpine routes from the 1979 book by Steve Roper and Allen Steck, bumped into some Yukon reality this year.

  • Will Gadd took second at the UIAA North American Championships last winter. Photo by Ben Herndon / UIAA.

    Bozeman to Host World Cup Ice Comp

    7/31/14 - It's official: The 18th annual Bozeman Ice Festival will be the sole North American stop on the UIAA Ice Climbing World Cup circuit. The World Cup speed and difficulty events will be held on an artificial wall in downtown Bozeman, Montana, on December 12 and 13, 2014.