Mountaineering and Ice Climbing News

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  • Nepal: Death Toll Rises, How You Can Help

    Everest Earthquake: All Climbers and Sherpas are Off the Mountain

    After inspection of the Khumbu Icefall by helicopter and by foot from below and from above, it was determined that the route was too broken up and risk too great to descend by foot. All climbers trapped in camps one and two have been evacuated by helicopter.

  • Nepal: Death Toll Rises, How You Can Help

    Nepal: Death Toll Rises, How You Can Help

    Yesterday, just before noon, a 7.9 magnitude quake struck northeast Nepal, causing widespread damage and triggering an avalanche which swept through Everest basecamp. It’s the region’s worst earthquake since 1932, when an 8.2 magnitude quake killed upwards of 12,000 people.

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    Climber Andy Tyson Killed in Plane Crash

    4/11/15 - Four men were killed in a plane crash Friday in northern Idaho, and the victims included well-known climber Andy Tyson.

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    First Ascent and Shiver Bivy on Alaska’s Mt. Dickey

    3/25/15 - John Frieh, from Portland, Oregon, teamed up with Alaskans Chad Diesinger and Jason Stuckey to climb a new route on the far right side of Mt. Dickey’s east face. Blue Collar Beatdown (V WI4 M4 65° snow) required 48 hours of effort, minus a four-hour ‘sit and suffer.’

  • Video: Sasha DiGiulian's First Foray into Ice and Mixed Climbing

    Video: Sasha DiGiulian's First Foray into Ice and Mixed Climbing

    In January 2015, Sasha DiGiulian teamed up with ice master Will Mayo for a crash course in ice and mixed climbing. She did surprisingly well, topping an M10 route during her first week. Soon after, DiGiulian competed at the Ouray Ice Festival, though she did not place. This video documents her rapid rise in winter climbing.

  • The Fitz Traverse, completed by Tommy Caldwell and Alex Honnold last February. Photo by Rolando Garibotti, courtesy of American Alpine Journal.

    Piolets d'Or for Caldwell and Honnold

    3/5/15 - The 23rd annual Piolets d’Or is shaking things up and announcing the recipients of the annual prizes for alpinism in advance, including Tommy Caldwell and Alex Honnold.

  • Ski the Flatirons! Pair Descends Boulder’s Iconic Landmark

    Ski the Flatirons! Pair Descends Boulder’s Iconic Landmark

    2/4/15 - After more than a week of steady snowfall, Alex Krull and Austin Porzak skied the right side of the First Flatiron, the landmark slab formation above Boulder, Colorado, on March 1.

  • Leclerc, Honnold, Haley: Amazing Solo, Magnificent Failure

    Leclerc, Honnold, Haley: Amazing Solo, Magnificent Failure

    2/24/15 - Continuing his extraordinary season in the Chaltén massif of Patagonia, the Canadian climber Marc-André Leclerc soloed the Corkscrew Route on Cerro Torre, linking the southeast ridge to the upper west face via an exposed traverse over the enormous south face of the spire.

  • Aconcagua Speed Record Smashed Again

    Aconcagua Speed Record Smashed Again

    The Ecuadoran-Swiss mountain runner Karl Egloff has reportedly set a bold new mark for the ascent and descent of Aconcagua.

  • The southwest side of Hathi Parbat in India. Photo by Alok Prasad / Wikipedia Commons.

    AAC Backs Four Cutting-Edge Expeditions

    2/12/15 - The American Alpine Club has named four recipients of its annual Lyman Spitzer Cutting Edge Awards, a grant for small teams attempting bold first ascents.

  • Mark Miller. Photo by Claudia López.

    Fallen Guide Mark Miller: Remembering a Legend

    2/4/15 - When climbing guide Mark Miller died in a fall last Friday, January 30, the accident left an outsized hole in the tiny community of Ouray, Colorado.

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    Climb of the Century? 7 Groundbreaking Ascents (Besides the Dawn Wall)

    2/2/15 - As the media frenzy swelled through January, both climbing and mass-market writers repeatedly called the Dawn Wall the "climb of the century." But are there other contenders?

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    Will Gadd Climbs First Known Ascent of Niagara Falls Ice (Photos + Videos)

    1/30/15 - On January 27, Will Gadd and Sarah Hueniken climbed a 147-foot ice route just to the left of the iconic Horseshoe Falls at Niagara Falls, right up the border of the United States and Canada. The team climbed the route three times, each time spending about an hour on the ice with Gadd leading and Hueniken cleaning. Gadd estimates the difficulty at a steep WI6+. Much of the challenge came from the routes objective hazards. On warmer years it doesn't form at all. This year was cold enough, but Gadd said it wasn't so much ice, as layers of ice, snow, and air. Not ideal. And then, of course, there are the falls. At times he was close enough to dip his tools in the flow.

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    Lonnie Dupre Summits Denali

    1/12/15 - Minnesota-based adventurer Lonnie Dupre has reached the summit of Denali. Dupre topped out on North America's highest point on January 11, on his fourth attempt to become the first person to solo Denali in January.

  • Sasha DiGiulian getting the feel of dry tooling in East Vail, Colorado. Photo by Alexandro Rojas Sanders.

    Sasha DiGiulian Will Compete on Ouray Ice

    1/6/15 - Sasha DiGiulian, who cranks 5.14 on rock, is mixing it up this winter and trying out ice and mixed climbing in Colorado. DiGiulian has been coached by Will Mayo in a weeklong “boot camp” at the mixed-climbing crags in East Vail and Ouray, and this weekend she will compete at the annual Ouray Ice Festival.

  • Kilian Jornet passes Plaza de Mules base camp en route to the summit of Aconcagua during his record-setting run. Photo courtesy of Summits of My Life.

    Kilian Jornet Smashes Aconcagua Speed Record

    12/23/14 - The extraordinary mountain runner Kilian Jornet has set a dramatic record for climbing and descending 22,841-foot Aconcagua. Jornet ran up and down the Normal Route, starting at the Argentine peak’s Horcones trailhead on the south side of the mountain, in 12 hours 49 minutes.

  • President's Gold Medal winner Fred Beckey. Photo courtesy American Alpine Club Archives.

    Fred Beckey to be Awarded Rare AAC Gold Medal

    The American Alpine Club (AAC) has announced its 2015 award recipients. Every year the AAC recognizes outstanding achievements in conservation, climbing, and service to the climbing community. This year the Club will also bestow its rare President's Gold Medal to Fred Beckey.

  • Fred Beckey (left) and Eric Bjornstad celebrating a first ascent in Monument Valley in the 1960s. Eric Bjornstad Collection.

    Desert Pioneer Eric Bjornstad Has Died

    12/17/14 - Eric Bjornstad has passed away after a long illness. The longtime resident of Moab, Utah, wrote the original comprehensive guidebook to rock climbing on the Colorado Plateau, Desert Rock, first published in 1988 and later expanded to four volumes.

  • Kendra Stritch celebrates her first-ever U.S. gold in a UIAA Ice World Cup. Photo by Max Lowe / UIAA.

    Bozeman Ice World Cup Results

    12/14/14 - Kendra Stritch took gold at the UIAA Ice Climbing World Cup, winning the speed event at the Bozeman Ice Festival on Friday. In the difficulty comp, two Canadians—Gord McArthur and Sarah Hueniken—made finals and earned the title of North American champions.

  • The stunning southern pillar of Cerro San Lorenzo rises at least 3,500 feet high. Colin Haley and Rob Smith climbed Aguja Antipasto, in lower left, on November 21. Photo courtesy of Colin Haley.

    First Ascent of Striking Spire in Wild Patagonia

    12/10/14 - Colin Haley and Rob Smith did the first ascent of a 14-pitch granite needle in remote northern Patagonia—a consolation prize after poor conditions prevented them from attempting the unclimb

  • Lonnie Dupre on Denali's West Buttress. Photo:

    K2, Nanga Parbat, Denali: Winter Attempts Planned

    11/25/14 - Only two 8,000-meter peaks have never been climbed in winter, and both are expected to see attempts this season. In Alaska, meanwhile, two soloists will attempt midwinter ascents of North America’s highest peak.

  • Alan Rousseau heading up the mile-high west face of Tengi Ragi Tau in Nepal. Photo by Tino Villanueva.

    Americans Bag New Route in Nepal

    11/29/14 - Mountain guides Alan Rousseau and Tino Villanueva climbed a new route on a 20,000-foot peak in Nepal and made a solid attempt on a higher peak.

  • Ryan Vachon on Jedi Mind Tricks (M14) near Lake City, Colorado. Photo by Beth Goralski.

    Ryan Vachon Sends Jedi Mind Tricks (M14)

    11/11/14 - Ryan Vachon, a 42-year-old climate scientist, has redpointed Jedi Mind Tricks outside Lake City, Colorado, making the probable fifth ascent and only the second without using heel spurs on his crampons.

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    Valley Uprising Wins Banff Grand Prize

    11/10/14 - "Valley Uprising," the documentary of Yosemite climbing culture directed by Nick Rosen, Peter Mortimer, and Josh Lowell, has won the grand prize at the Banff Mountain Film Festival. The 90-minute film, produced by Zachary Barr and Sender Films, is currently showing worldwide in the 2014 Reel Rock tour.

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    British Alpinist's Remarkable Book Wins Banff Award

    11/7/14 - The grand prize at the annual Banff Mountain Book Festival has gone to John Porter's One Day as a Tiger: Alex Macintyre and the Birth of Light and Fast Alpinism.

  • Selfie on the summit of Daugou East in China. Photo by Pat Goodman.

    American-Brazilian Pair Bag Three New Routes in China

    11/4/14 - This fall Pat Goodman returned to Sichuan for his sixth attempt on the unclimbed 900-meter west face of Seerdengpu. That didn’t pan out, but Goodman and his Brazilian partner, Marcos Costa, still managed three first ascents.

  • U.K. climber Greg Boswell partway up the Red Bull White Cliffs course. The route began by exiting the left side of the giant cave at the bottom. Photo by Calum Muskett.

    Climbers Race Up 400-Foot Chalk Cliffs

    10/20/14 - Leave it to Red Bull to dream up this unique competition: The Red Bull White Cliffs event last weekend pitted 10 top mixed climbers against a 400-foot vertical to overhanging wall of chalk in southern England. The friendly competition was staged a race, but the route was so steep and technical that most climbers took 20 minutes or more to complete the route.

  • Mayo Ups the Ante on Colorado's Black Wall

    10/13/14 - Will Mayo has redpointed The Ghost (M10 WI6), a traditionally protected mixed climb at over 13,000 feet on the Black Wall, near Mt. Evans. The route is his second early-season new route of the year, and his third difficult mixed climb on the same cliff in the past 13 months.

  • Will Mayo at the top of the crux section of Shooting Star (M9 WI7), a new route on Colorado's Black Wall. Photo by Ben Collett.

    It's On! Desperate Early-Season Mixed Route in Colorado

    10/3/14 - Taking advantage of an early-season snowstorm and freezing temps, Will Mayo and Ben Collett bagged the first ascent of a desperate traditional mixed route on the Black Wall, near Mt. Evans, Colorado. Shooting Star (2 pitches, M9 WI7) tackles a huge roof to the left of the 2013 Collett-Mayo route Silhouette (M9 WI6+).

  • Approaching one of the largest crevasses on Volcan Aguilera. Photo by Evan Miles.

    First Ascent of Much-Tried Patagonian Peak

    9/30/14 - An international expedition has done the first ascent of one of Patagonia's most isolated summits, in the middle of winter. Volcan Aguilera was the last major volcano in the Andes to be climbed—it had been attempted six times since the mid-1980s.

  • Will Mayo on the Existensionalist in the abandoned mining tunnel called the Ghetto. Photo by Ryan Vachon.

    Will Mayo Sends Desperate Dry-Tool Route in Crazy Tunnel Called the Ghetto

    9/10/14 - Who needs ice and cold for dry tooling? In Colorado's summer heat, Will Mayo has just redpointed what's likely one of the hardest dry-tooling routes in the country.

  • The north face of Slesse Mountain. Green: East Pillar. Red: Navigator Wall. Yellow: Northeast Buttress. Blue: Southeast Buttress of South Summit. Photo courtesy of Marc-Andre Leclerc.

    Three Round Trips on Slesse's East Side in 12 Hours

    9/5/14 - Marc-Andre Leclerc has free-soloed three different routes on the east side of Slesse Mountain in British Columbia in a day, completing the round trip from his bivouac site in a little over 12 hours.

  • Nik Berry climbing the A3 Beauty pitch on Hooker in 2013. Photo by Dave Allfrey.

    Mt. Hooker Free For All

    8/28/14 - The 1,800-foot north face of Mt. Hooker is one of the most imposing and remote big walls in the Lower 48. This August it was the scene of three impressive free climbs.

  • Bran McCray on the classic Desert Gold (5.13a) in Red Rock, near his Las Vegas home. Photo courtesy of

    Fly'n Brian McCray Passes On

    8/25/14 - Brian McCray, a prolific big-wall and free climber, and founder and operator of Fly'n Brian's Resoles, has passed away.

  • Aiguille d'Argentière, as seen from the nearby Aiguille du Chardonnet. Photo: alpiniste/Flickr;

    Six Climbers Killed In Fall On Mont Blanc

    8/13/14 - A group of climbers was found dead today after being reported missing Tuesday en route on the Aiguille d'Argentière in the Mont Blanc massif. The team was on an outing with the Union Nationale des Centres Sportifs de Plein Air (UCPA), a French nonprofit that makes outdoor trips available to people age 7 to 39. This group contained four men and one woman, between the ages of 27 and 45, and was led by a fully licensed guide. The investigation is still underway, but it's thought that the team summited the mountain, and then fell 820 feet while roped together during the descent.

  • Dani Arnold on the famed Hinterstoisser Traverse on the Eiger north face, with the 360° camera poking out of his pack. Photo by Photopress / Daniel Bartsch

    Behind the Scenes With Mammut's Incredible 360° Photos of Eiger North Face

    8/12/14 - Using custom-made 360° camera technology, Mammut has produced a remarkable documentation of the original 1938 Route on the north face of the Eiger. Swiss alpinists Dani Arnold and Stephan Siegrist climbed the route over two days in April, each carrying a 17.5-pound system combining their pack, a six-lens GoPro-designed camera, and extendable boom.

  • High point of the 2014 attempt on the Hummingbird Ridge of Mt. Logan. Photo by Mark Smiley /

    Yukon Reality: 50 Classics Teams Stall on Logan, St. Elias

    8/4/14 - The two teams chasing the "Fifty Classic Climbs of North America," the collector's list of big rock and alpine routes from the 1979 book by Steve Roper and Allen Steck, bumped into some Yukon reality this year.

  • Will Gadd took second at the UIAA North American Championships last winter. Photo by Ben Herndon / UIAA.

    Bozeman to Host World Cup Ice Comp

    7/31/14 - It's official: The 18th annual Bozeman Ice Festival will be the sole North American stop on the UIAA Ice Climbing World Cup circuit. The World Cup speed and difficulty events will be held on an artificial wall in downtown Bozeman, Montana, on December 12 and 13, 2014.

  • Hiking in to Keeler Needle (center) at dawn on Day One of the 4x4. Photo by Aaron Richards.

    The 4x4: Croft's Big Four Sierra Routes Back to Back

    7/23/14 - When California-based guides Ian McEleney and Aaron Richards read about the "Big Four" Sierra Nevada alpine routes in Peter Croft's The Good, the Great, and the Awesome guidebook, a seed was planted. This summer that seed sprouted into an impressive endurance challenge: Climb all four of these Sierra classics back to back in four days.

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    Missing Climber Found After 32 Years In Ice

    On July 3, two Mont Blanc hikers stumbled upon the long-frozen body of Patrice Hyvert, a 23-year-old mountaineer who went missing on March 2, 1982 when he was trapped on the 15,781-foot mountain due to bad weather. Found at an elevation of 8,155 feet near the Couvercle mountain shelter, Hyvert's body was easily identified because not only was his body preserved in great condition because of the ice, but his identification card was still in his wallet.

  • Kiernan Parsons starting the second pitch on the summit pyramid of Peak 8,290.

    Anglo-Kiwi Pair Completes Three Alaskan First Ascents

    7/7/14 - In one of his frequent pilgrimages to the coastal mountains of Alaska, Paul Knott (U.K./New Zealand) teamed up with Kiernan Parsons, also from New Zealand, and managed three first ascents of peaks in Glacier Bay National Park.

  • John Stuckey starting a 5.8 choss pitch on the first day. Photo by Angela VanWiemeersch.

    Impressive Climb on Alaska's Mt. Hayes

    6/19/14 - John Giraldo, Jason Stuckey, and Angela VanWiemeersch climbed a new line to the south summit of Mt. Hayes in late April and then traversed over the main peak in an impressive three-day effort.

  • The West Buttress route on Denali.

    Kilian Jornet: Up and Down Denali in Under 12 Hours

    6/13/14 - The mountain runner Kilian Jornet has set a dramatic new speed record for climbing Denali, North America's highest peak. Jornet, who has been acclimatizing on Denali for the past several weeks, raced up and down the West Buttress route in 11 hours 40 minutes.

  • Jonas Haag and Mike Libecki celebrate their new route on Tower (back right). Photo by Mike Libecki.

    New Dog, Old Tricks on Baffin Island

    6/17/14 - Mike Libecki and Jonas Haag have climbed a 17-pitch new route on Baffin Island, making the first ascent of Lurking Tower. For Libecki, this was the sixth expedition to Baffin since his first climb in the Canadian Arctic 17 years ago. Remarkably, it was not only Haag's first time climbing on Baffin but also his first ever big-wall ascent.

  • Roskelly takes a break near midnight on the summit. Photo by John Frieh.

    Rad New Route on the Witches Tit in Southeast Alaska

    6/4/14 - John Frieh and Jess Roskelley have climbed a very hard new mixed route on the West Witches Tit during a brief trip to the Stikine Ice Cap in southeast Alaska.

  • Liberty Ridge is the shallow ridge line in center.

    Six Climbers Presumed Dead on Mt. Rainier

  • Kevin Cooper (left) and Ryan Jennings at the foot of the wall, exhausted but happy. Photo by Ryan Jennings.

    Bold Coloradans Climb Alaska Super Route

    5/30/14 - Coloradans Kevin Cooper and Ryan Jennings climbed the "route of a lifetime" in early May, making the first ascent of the direct north face of Mt. Johnson in Alaska's Ruth Gorge.

  • Ben Guigonnet leads the exit pitch at over 20,000 feet on the direct west face of Siula Chico. Photo courtesy of Fred Degoulet.

    French Climb Coveted New Route in Peru

    5/29/14 - A four-man French team has climbed the direct west face of Siula Chico (6,265m/20,554') in the Cordillera Huayhuash, one of the most difficult and coveted lines in Peru.

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    Climber's Himalayan Rescue Plays out Live on Facebook (Warning: Graphic)

    On May 19, John All fell 70 feet down a crevasse on Mount Himlung in Nepal. He broke five ribs, an arm, dislocated a shoulder and suffered some internal bleeding during the fall. Luckily, he stopped on a three-foot ledge, from which he was able to climb out of the crevasse over the course of six hours with the help of his ice axe. What makes this story extra remarkable, beyond All's miraculous survival and recovery, is that the events were broadcasted in real-time via Facebook.

  • Josh Wharton (left) and pilot Will Mayo sporting oxygen mustaches for the 19-hour, ca. 2,500-mile flight to Talkeetna, Alaska. Photo by Josh Wharton.

    Classy New Climbs in Alaska's Huntington Group

    5/21/14 - Two new routes have been climbed on Mt. Huntington and its smaller neighbor, "Idiot Peak," each in unique and compelling style.