Mountaineering and Ice Climbing News

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  • Aiguille d'Argentière, as seen from the nearby Aiguille du Chardonnet. Photo: alpiniste/Flickr; http://ow.ly/AimHP

    Six Climbers Killed In Fall On Mont Blanc

    8/13/14 - A group of climbers was found dead today after being reported missing Tuesday en route on the Aiguille d'Argentière in the Mont Blanc massif. The team was on an outing with the Union Nationale des Centres Sportifs de Plein Air (UCPA), a French nonprofit that makes outdoor trips available to people age 7 to 39. This group contained four men and one woman, between the ages of 27 and 45, and was led by a fully licensed guide. The investigation is still underway, but it's thought that the team summited the mountain, and then fell 820 feet while roped together during the descent.

  • Dani Arnold on the famed Hinterstoisser Traverse on the Eiger north face, with the 360° camera poking out of his pack. Photo by Photopress / Daniel Bartsch

    Behind the Scenes With Mammut's Incredible 360° Photos of Eiger North Face

    8/12/14 - Using custom-made 360° camera technology, Mammut has produced a remarkable documentation of the original 1938 Route on the north face of the Eiger. Swiss alpinists Dani Arnold and Stephan Siegrist climbed the route over two days in April, each carrying a 17.5-pound system combining their pack, a six-lens GoPro-designed camera, and extendable boom.

  • High point of the 2014 attempt on the Hummingbird Ridge of Mt. Logan. Photo by Mark Smiley / SmileysProject.com

    Yukon Reality: 50 Classics Teams Stall on Logan, St. Elias

    8/4/14 - The two teams chasing the "Fifty Classic Climbs of North America," the collector's list of big rock and alpine routes from the 1979 book by Steve Roper and Allen Steck, bumped into some Yukon reality this year.

  • Will Gadd took second at the UIAA North American Championships last winter. Photo by Ben Herndon / UIAA.

    Bozeman to Host World Cup Ice Comp

    7/31/14 - It's official: The 18th annual Bozeman Ice Festival will be the sole North American stop on the UIAA Ice Climbing World Cup circuit. The World Cup speed and difficulty events will be held on an artificial wall in downtown Bozeman, Montana, on December 12 and 13, 2014.

  • Hiking in to Keeler Needle (center) at dawn on Day One of the 4x4. Photo by Aaron Richards.

    The 4x4: Croft's Big Four Sierra Routes Back to Back

    7/23/14 - When California-based guides Ian McEleney and Aaron Richards read about the "Big Four" Sierra Nevada alpine routes in Peter Croft's The Good, the Great, and the Awesome guidebook, a seed was planted. This summer that seed sprouted into an impressive endurance challenge: Climb all four of these Sierra classics back to back in four days.

  • HPNews

    Missing Climber Found After 32 Years In Ice

    On July 3, two Mont Blanc hikers stumbled upon the long-frozen body of Patrice Hyvert, a 23-year-old mountaineer who went missing on March 2, 1982 when he was trapped on the 15,781-foot mountain due to bad weather. Found at an elevation of 8,155 feet near the Couvercle mountain shelter, Hyvert's body was easily identified because not only was his body preserved in great condition because of the ice, but his identification card was still in his wallet.

  • Kiernan Parsons starting the second pitch on the summit pyramid of Peak 8,290.

    Anglo-Kiwi Pair Completes Three Alaskan First Ascents

    7/7/14 - In one of his frequent pilgrimages to the coastal mountains of Alaska, Paul Knott (U.K./New Zealand) teamed up with Kiernan Parsons, also from New Zealand, and managed three first ascents of peaks in Glacier Bay National Park.

  • John Stuckey starting a 5.8 choss pitch on the first day. Photo by Angela VanWiemeersch.

    Impressive Climb on Alaska's Mt. Hayes

    6/19/14 - John Giraldo, Jason Stuckey, and Angela VanWiemeersch climbed a new line to the south summit of Mt. Hayes in late April and then traversed over the main peak in an impressive three-day effort.

  • The West Buttress route on Denali.

    Kilian Jornet: Up and Down Denali in Under 12 Hours

    6/13/14 - The mountain runner Kilian Jornet has set a dramatic new speed record for climbing Denali, North America's highest peak. Jornet, who has been acclimatizing on Denali for the past several weeks, raced up and down the West Buttress route in 11 hours 40 minutes.

  • Jonas Haag and Mike Libecki celebrate their new route on Tower (back right). Photo by Mike Libecki.

    New Dog, Old Tricks on Baffin Island

    6/17/14 - Mike Libecki and Jonas Haag have climbed a 17-pitch new route on Baffin Island, making the first ascent of Lurking Tower. For Libecki, this was the sixth expedition to Baffin since his first climb in the Canadian Arctic 17 years ago. Remarkably, it was not only Haag's first time climbing on Baffin but also his first ever big-wall ascent.

  • Roskelly takes a break near midnight on the summit. Photo by John Frieh.

    Rad New Route on the Witches Tit in Southeast Alaska

    6/4/14 - John Frieh and Jess Roskelley have climbed a very hard new mixed route on the West Witches Tit during a brief trip to the Stikine Ice Cap in southeast Alaska.

  • Liberty Ridge is the shallow ridge line in center.

    Six Climbers Presumed Dead on Mt. Rainier