Mountaineering and Ice Climbing News

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  • Ryan Vachon on Jedi Mind Tricks (M14) near Lake City, Colorado. Photo by Beth Goralski.

    Ryan Vachon Sends Jedi Mind Tricks (M14)

    11/11/14 - Ryan Vachon, a 42-year-old climate scientist, has redpointed Jedi Mind Tricks outside Lake City, Colorado, making the probable fifth ascent and only the second without using heel spurs on his crampons.

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    Valley Uprising Wins Banff Grand Prize

    11/10/14 - "Valley Uprising," the documentary of Yosemite climbing culture directed by Nick Rosen, Peter Mortimer, and Josh Lowell, has won the grand prize at the Banff Mountain Film Festival. The 90-minute film, produced by Zachary Barr and Sender Films, is currently showing worldwide in the 2014 Reel Rock tour.

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    British Alpinist's Remarkable Book Wins Banff Award

    11/7/14 - The grand prize at the annual Banff Mountain Book Festival has gone to John Porter's One Day as a Tiger: Alex Macintyre and the Birth of Light and Fast Alpinism.

  • Selfie on the summit of Daugou East in China. Photo by Pat Goodman.

    American-Brazilian Pair Bag Three New Routes in China

    11/4/14 - This fall Pat Goodman returned to Sichuan for his sixth attempt on the unclimbed 900-meter west face of Seerdengpu. That didn’t pan out, but Goodman and his Brazilian partner, Marcos Costa, still managed three first ascents.

  • U.K. climber Greg Boswell partway up the Red Bull White Cliffs course. The route began by exiting the left side of the giant cave at the bottom. Photo by Calum Muskett.

    Climbers Race Up 400-Foot Chalk Cliffs

    10/20/14 - Leave it to Red Bull to dream up this unique competition: The Red Bull White Cliffs event last weekend pitted 10 top mixed climbers against a 400-foot vertical to overhanging wall of chalk in southern England. The friendly competition was staged a race, but the route was so steep and technical that most climbers took 20 minutes or more to complete the route.

  • Mayo Ups the Ante on Colorado's Black Wall

    10/13/14 - Will Mayo has redpointed The Ghost (M10 WI6), a traditionally protected mixed climb at over 13,000 feet on the Black Wall, near Mt. Evans. The route is his second early-season new route of the year, and his third difficult mixed climb on the same cliff in the past 13 months.

  • Will Mayo at the top of the crux section of Shooting Star (M9 WI7), a new route on Colorado's Black Wall. Photo by Ben Collett.

    It's On! Desperate Early-Season Mixed Route in Colorado

    10/3/14 - Taking advantage of an early-season snowstorm and freezing temps, Will Mayo and Ben Collett bagged the first ascent of a desperate traditional mixed route on the Black Wall, near Mt. Evans, Colorado. Shooting Star (2 pitches, M9 WI7) tackles a huge roof to the left of the 2013 Collett-Mayo route Silhouette (M9 WI6+).

  • Approaching one of the largest crevasses on Volcan Aguilera. Photo by Evan Miles.

    First Ascent of Much-Tried Patagonian Peak

    9/30/14 - An international expedition has done the first ascent of one of Patagonia's most isolated summits, in the middle of winter. Volcan Aguilera was the last major volcano in the Andes to be climbed—it had been attempted six times since the mid-1980s.

  • Will Mayo on the Existensionalist in the abandoned mining tunnel called the Ghetto. Photo by Ryan Vachon.

    Will Mayo Sends Desperate Dry-Tool Route in Crazy Tunnel Called the Ghetto

    9/10/14 - Who needs ice and cold for dry tooling? In Colorado's summer heat, Will Mayo has just redpointed what's likely one of the hardest dry-tooling routes in the country.

  • The north face of Slesse Mountain. Green: East Pillar. Red: Navigator Wall. Yellow: Northeast Buttress. Blue: Southeast Buttress of South Summit. Photo courtesy of Marc-Andre Leclerc.

    Three Round Trips on Slesse's East Side in 12 Hours

    9/5/14 - Marc-Andre Leclerc has free-soloed three different routes on the east side of Slesse Mountain in British Columbia in a day, completing the round trip from his bivouac site in a little over 12 hours.

  • Nik Berry climbing the A3 Beauty pitch on Hooker in 2013. Photo by Dave Allfrey.

    Mt. Hooker Free For All

    8/28/14 - The 1,800-foot north face of Mt. Hooker is one of the most imposing and remote big walls in the Lower 48. This August it was the scene of three impressive free climbs.

  • Bran McCray on the classic Desert Gold (5.13a) in Red Rock, near his Las Vegas home. Photo courtesy of ClimbingResoles.com.

    Fly'n Brian McCray Passes On

    8/25/14 - Brian McCray, a prolific big-wall and free climber, and founder and operator of Fly'n Brian's Resoles, has passed away.