New 5.13d on Cima Grande
After several days of preparation, Mauro “Bubu” Bole redpointed the 11-pitch Camillotto Pellesier on Italy’s Cima Grande di Lavaredo, finding three pitches of 5.13 (up to 5.13d), two pitches of 5.12, and four pitches of 5.11. Maintaining the standard he set when he free-climbed the Couzy Route on neighboring Cima Ovest four years ago, Bole did not add any protection bolts to Camillotto Pellesier — he clipped only existing pitons and placed modern gear to protect the 1967 climb. (Bole added new bolts to every belay.) The limestone wall’s crux comes in the first six pitches, which overhang 35 meters.
The Couzy Route, meanwhile, got its first repeat this summer when Austrian Michael Mayr redpointed the climb, calling it 5.13c. (Bole originally rated it 5.13d.) Last summer, Mayr onsight free-soloed the 600-meter Cassin Route (5.12a) on Cima Ovest.
See photos of Bubu on Cima Grande on www.desnivel.es.