New Route Likely South Platte’s Hardest
News Link: Jason Haas has completed the hardest pitch in Colorado’s South Platte area, a roof seam that’s protected with removable pro and might be 5.14a. The new route, Comprometido, took Haas about a year and a half to redpoint.
The crux of the three-pitch granite climb on Dome Rock comes on the second pitch, a 30-foot horizontal roof. Haas preplaced cams on the pitch, in part because the crux moves were protected by equalized blue and black Aliens with only three lobes each engaged.
Haas had previously climbed cracks up to 5.13c, and it took many, many visits before he could redpoint Comprometido. He graded the climb with input from Rob Pizem, who worked on the route with him.
The difficulties weren’t limited to the climbing. To reach the route in summer or fall, Haas and his partners had to wade the North Fork of the South Platte River-a powerful stream at least thigh-deep. Ice often allowed a scary crossing in winter, but then the north-facing rock was usually bitter-cold. Haas had to rappel the route to brush snow off the slab before his redpoint.
Date of Ascent: February 6, 2010
Source: Jason Haas
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