New Route on Fitz Roy, New Guidebook to Patagonia
11/25/12 – Two young climbers have completed a major new route on the east face of Fitz Roy. According to Pataclimb, Jorge Ackermann (Argentina) and Michael Lerjen-Demjen (Switzerland), both in their mid-20s, climbed their 4,000-foot route, Un Mar de Sueños, in mid-November. It was their third attempt over three seasons, all in 2012, including an austral winter attempt in August. They fixed no ropes and used no bolts. The route takes a very direct and steep line up the far left side of the east face, left of the unrepeated 1976 Ferrari-Meles route.
According to an account at Planet Mountain, the 28-pitch new route (1200m, 7a A3 M4) required two bivouacs, followed by a 24-hour push up to the summit and down the Ferrari route (40 rappels) during the third night.
Pataclimb publishers Rolando Garibotti and Dörte Pietron announced the long-awaited completion of their comprehensive guide to the Chaltén Massif of southern Patagonia, home to Fitz Roy, Cerro Torre, and other world-famous alpine objectives. The 368-page, full-color guide covers 250 routes in the massif. It will be available from the Slovenian publisher, Sidarta, with worldwide shipping, starting December 5.
Below is a cool video of the two men’s winter attempt on the new route, this past August:
Dates of ascent: November 14-17, 2012