New Route on Fitz Roy's North Pillar

Rolando Garibotti climbs the beautiful dihedrals on the west side of Fitz Roy’s north pillar. Photo by Bean Bowers.

Bean Bowers and Rolando Garibotti have climbed a much-eyed line on the “back side” of the North Pillar (aka Goretta Pillar) of Fitz Roy in Argentine Patagonia. Poor weather and climbing conditions prevented them from continuing along Renato Casarotto’s 1979 route from the top of the pillar to Fitz Roy’s summit. 

The two climbed approximately 2,800 feet of rock on the west side of the pillar, in the same vicinity as a line attempted by Jim Donini and Thom Engelbach over the past several years. Bowers said, “The route is a mix of all sizes of crack climbing, and never harder than mid-5.11. We had to resort to aid in a few small spots, but due to ice rather than difficult climbing.” Bowers believes he and Garibotti climbed to the right of the Donini-Engelbach line higher on the route. The two did 12 hours of roped climbing and descended via the Casarotto Route, and then down to the west to return to their camp, about 20 hours after leaving. The called the route Mate, Porro, y todo Lo de  Mas. 

Said Bowers: “I think it is fair to call it a new route or variation on the pillar, and…it is a gem that still awaits an integral ascent to the summit.” 

Date of Ascent: January 2008 

Sources: Bean Bowers, Alpinist 5

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