New Route on Robson's Emperor Face

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Mt. Robson's Emperor Face, with the approximate start to the new House-Haley Route marked.

Mt. Robson

They topped out on the headwall at 10:30 p.m. and chopped a small ledge for a bivy, then continued up two easier mixed pitches the next morning to reach the Emperor Ridge, which they crossed to Robson’s upper Southwest Face. After traversing all the way to the Wishbone Arête in deteriorating weather, they climbed past that route’s weird ice gargoyles to reach the 12,989-foot summit in a whiteout at 1 p.m. They descended by the Kain Route, then descended the Robson Glacier on May 27, still in whiteout conditions, and walked out to the road early on May 28.

This was House's fifth trip to Robson toattempt the Emperor Face, and his fourth time actually starting up a route,dating back to 1996. Several of those efforts were with Barry Blanchard, who finally completed his own new route on the face, Infinite Patience, in 2002 with Eric Dumerac and Philippe Pellet.

Dates of Ascent: May 25-26, 2007

Source:www.cascadeclimbers.com, Colin Haley , www.metoliusclimbing.com

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