Nico Favresse Establishes Hard Crack Climb in Norway
5/28/13 - Belgian climber Nico Favresse made the first ascent of a project last week in Jossingfjord, Norway, called The Recovery Drink. While he hasn't yet attached a grade to it, he calls it "the hardest crack I have ever redpointed."
Favresse, his brother Olivier, Daniel Jung, and Bernardo Gimenez first traveled to the area last summer after getting beta from Swedish climber Erik Massih. They spent three weeks working on this specific line: "Our attention was immediately caught by a very impressive series of splitter cracks up the middle of the overhang," Favresse told planetmountain.com. "Even though it looked way too futuristic, we were so motivated that we decided to waste no time and check it out right away." Inclement weather kept rebuffing the group, and by the end of the trip, the sharp rock had shredded their fingers.
Favresse returned this spring with Stephane Hanssens, and the pair spent two weeks there (again fighting bad weather) before Favresse redpointed the route. He placed most of the gear on lead, save a few pieces he left in that made cleaning the line easier. The route is about 115 feet long, with the crux in the middle. "It was an amazing feeling," Favresse said.
Favresse has climbed 5.14 traditional crack climbs, including the second ascent of Cobra Crack in Squamish, British Columbia, and up to 5.14d sport climbs.