Noguchi, Gelmanov Take Second Gold Each in Vienna

Akiyo Noguchi of Japan was the only woman to finish all four bouldering problems.

4/30/12 - The 2012 International Federation of Sport Climbing (IFSC) World Cup continued April 28 with a bouldering event in Vienna, Austria. Akiyo Noguchi and Rustam Gelmanov each took home their second gold of the season.

Noguchi was the only woman to finish all four problems. All the women flashed the first problem, except for Olga Shalagina, who fell attempting the double dyno. She damaged the ligaments in her knee in the fall, and was unable to continue. On problem two, Puccio was the only climber to flash, and held a strong position in first. She fell to second after an incomplete number three. Noguchi flashed the problem to take first. Only Noguchi and Mina Markovic sent the fourth and final women’s problem, which secured another gold medal for Noguchi and a silver for Markovic. Puccio finished with the bronze, with Angie Payne, the only other American woman to compete, placing 15th.

Gelmanov nailed his second win in a row (he took first in Slovenia). He was the only male to send all four problems, with flashes on problems three and four. Dmitri Sharafutdinov and Kilian Fischhuber, each with three topouts, finished second and third. Rei Sugimoto injured his ankle on problem two, but returned taped up and ready to go, and made impressive sends of the next two problems, finishing in fourth. Ethan Pringle was the only American male participating, placing 33rd.

With two golds each, Noguchi and Gelmanov leads the rankings. Markovic and Anna Stöhr follow in second and third for the women, alongside Sharafutdinov and Guillaume Glairon Mondet of France for the men.

Women’s final fesults:

  1. Akiyo Noguchi (Japan)
  2. Mina Markovic (Slovenia)
  3. Alex Puccio (USA)
  4. Shauna Coxsey (Great Britain)
  5. Anna Stöhr (Austria)
  6. Olga Shalagina (Ukraine)

Men’s final results:

  1. Rustam Gelmanov (Russia)
  2. Dmitri Sharafutdinov (Russia)
  3. Kilian Fischhuber (Austria)
  4. Rei Sugimoto (Japan)
  5. Thomas Caleyron (France)
  6. Jeremy Bonder (France)

See full results here.

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