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	<title>ClimbingOndra, Koyamada on a Roll in Switzerland</title>
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		<title>Ondra, Koyamada on a Roll in Switzerland</title>
		<link>http://www.climbing.com/news/ondra-koyamada-on-a-roll-in-switzerland/</link>
		<comments>http://www.climbing.com/news/ondra-koyamada-on-a-roll-in-switzerland/#comments</comments>
		<pubDate>Wed, 05 Oct 2011 09:48:00 +0000</pubDate>
		<dc:creator>By Amanda Fox</dc:creator>
		
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		<description><![CDATA[10/5/11 &#8211; Adam Ondra has had a successful trip to Switzerland despite not-so-perfect weather conditions. Last week, he repeated Practice of the Wild (V15) that Chris Sharma established in Magic Wood in 2004. Practice took Ondra three days of work, including &#34;one day in terrible conditions, another one while being tired,&#34; he said on his [...]]]></description>
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<p>		  			  		  <div id="caption_6905" class="wp-caption aligncenter" style="width: 310px"><a class="content-img-link" rel="group1" href="http://static-dev-climbing.s3.amazonaws.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/08/Dai-Paradise-Lost_33461.jpg"><img src="http://static-dev-climbing.s3.amazonaws.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/08/Dai-Paradise-Lost-300_33459.jpg" height="200"/></a><p class="wp-caption-text">Dai Koyamada on Paradise Lost (V13/14). Photo by Ikuko Serata</p></div>
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<p>10/5/11 &#8211; <b>Adam Ondra has had a successful trip to Switzerland despite not-so-perfect weather conditions. </b>Last week, he repeated <i>Practice of the Wild</i> (V15) that Chris Sharma established in Magic Wood in 2004. </p>
<p><i>Practice</i> took Ondra three days of work, including &quot;one day in terrible conditions, another one while being tired,&quot; he said on his <a href="http://www.8a.nu/?IncPage=http%3A//www.8a.nu/user/Profile.aspx%3FUserId%3D1476" target="_blank">scorecard</a>. &quot;Very hard to say concerning the grade; easier than <i>In Search of Time Lost </i>[V15 by Daniel Woods in Magic Wood], but harder than the rest of other V14s.&quot;</p>
<p>He also repeated two V14s, <i>Dark Matter</i> (see below) and <i> Remembrance of Things Past</i>, even though <i>Remembrance</i> was &quot;completely my anti-style,&quot; he said. </p>
<p>Meanwhile, also in Switzerland, Japanese climber Dai Koyamada  established a few hard problems in Sustenpass, where conditions were better, including <i>Paradise Lost, </i>which he&#8217;s calling V13/14, and <i>Daedalus Direct</i>, which he thinks is V14/15. </p>
<p>Earlier in September, he  established the aforementioned <i>Dark Matter</i> in the Darkness Roof in Magic Wood. <i>Dark Matter</i> is a 15-meter link-up of Woods&#8217; <i>In Search of Time Lost</i> and <i>From Darkness to Sunshine</i> that has around 30 moves. He told UKClimbing that he felt it was &quot;V14/15 or easy V15. I would like to have an opinion from a repeater.&quot; Seems as though Ondra feels V14 is appropriate. </p>
<p>Dates of ascents: September-October 2011</p>
<p>Sources: 8a.nu, <a href="http://koyamada.dai.hiho.jp/?eid=866965" target="_blank">koyamada.dai.hiho.jp</a>, <a href="http://www.ukclimbing.com/news/item.php?id=64067" target="_blank">ukclimbing.com</a></p>
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