9/8/11 - Two days ago, Daniel Woods repeated what's considered one of the hardest problems in the world: Anam Cara in the Silvretta Mountains, Austria. He climbed Memento the same day, also in Silvretta. Both problems were established by Bernd Zangerl.
This was Anam Cara's fourth ascent, after Zangerl, Bernhard Schweiger, and Korni Obleitner. The problem has stood at V15, but Woods suggested V14 as a more appropriate grade. "Tried two days ago and came close, but with today's exceptional weather, the boulder went fast," he said. "An amazing pitbull of a problem, with four intense moves revolving around a heinous undercling."
Memento was first climbed in 2005 and has been repeated by climbers like Kilian Fischhuber and Obleitner. Woods' ascent was the seventh. "One-day ascent. Really nice climbing—pretty much a ladder of incut crimps—to a freak dyno move," he said. He says the dyno makes it hard to grade: "At first, it felt impossible, but then you find the trick and can do it on command." He suggests V13 for the problem.
Zangerl originally graded both problems V16, and before Woods' suggestions, had settled to V15 (Anam Cara) and V14 (Memento). Below is a video of Zangerl on Memento. Click here for a video of Anam Cara.
Yesterday, Woods climbed Golden Gate (V13), which he said was "a nice, little, short roof revolving around two moves. Very straightforward and powerful."
Meanwhile, to the north, Adam Ondra was making first ascents at a local crag in the Czech Republic. He established Perlorodka, proposing 5.15a for the grade. "Finally, it is done!" he said. "Great line, one of the best lines at home, and feels great to send the line I have been walking around for years and thought of it as impossible. Possibly the route I spent the most time on, but once you are at your home crag, you don't bother with the tries even when you are tired."
He described the route as 5.13b start to a no-hands rest, then a V9 boulder problem with a rest, which moves into a 12-move V14 boulder problem, ending with a V8 mantel onto a ledge.
The same day, Ondra put up Pata Ledovce, a potential V15 at the same area. A power-endurance problem of 15 moves, the moves end at the first bolt of a route. "I spent so much time working the sequences during the last year, so I sent surprisingly easily this time, but the second part [V12] I have done so many times, that I do think it made the difference," he said. "I hope the grade fits."
Perlorodka is Ondra's sixth 5.15 FA of 2011, bringing him to 16 total 5.15 ascents.
Dates of ascents: September 6-7, 2011