Alan’s life as a climber was not, however, without some unrest. It must surely be said that through all of his climbing and first ascent work, Alan went his own way. Like many restless climbers, Alan played the maverick when it suited him and from time to time could generate a firestorm of controversy. His Genius Loci in Eldorado left him all but tarred and feathered or thrown from the top of T2. Queried about the ascent, he explained that the name translated into “Spirit of the Place”, a spirit and place of power, a place where Alan came to pay his own homage. It may have been all along that most of us never saw this personal, spiritual side of Alan that showed up in so much of his climbing. His ascent of Forgotten Years in Rifle was in fact a moving statement to his own father. If you look over the lyrics of this Midnight Oil tune you will find a song that could have been written for Alan.
Alan was never one to speak particularly much about his personal thoughts and feelings, but, his religious convictions were always profound and formed a large part of his personal, spiritual life, despite the contrast with his tough-guy climbing persona. In fact though, he had been affiliated with the Friends community for most of his time in Colorado. He joined the New Manna International Church after moving to Fort Collins, and this strong and supportive community was with him to his very last moment. Near the end, Alan spoke freely about the church, the close friends that he had there, and the importance of worship in his life. Worship, for Alan, integrated the vast natural world, the world of climbing, and his own profound belief in his family and friends.
It has been said that we become diminished by every death of a loved one. This may or may not be true, but it is certain that Alan enriched the lives of everyone that called him friend, and the tears we shed now for Alan are a testament today of how much he was loved. For myself, every time I put hand to rock something of Alan will be with me. In each persistence, when the odds seem stacked too high to succeed, something of Alan will be with me. Alan has indeed left us a legacy of fine and challenging climbs, but he has also left a legacy of friends who will not forget the Worshiping Warrior.