Rock Climbing News

Read here about all the latest rock climbing news--the hardest redpoints, the most astonishing onsights, the wildest trad climbs, and the boldest solos. If it's a ground-breaking rock climb, we've got all the details.
  • Tommy Caldwell on the 14th pitch (5.14d) of the Dawn Wall. Photo by Jeff Johnson.

    Dawn Wall: Major Hurdle Cleared, Final Push Planned for December

    11/19/14 - Tommy Caldwell has free-climbed the 14th pitch of the Dawn Wall on El Capitan, which means that either he or Kevin Jorgeson now has redpointed every 5.14 section of the route.

  • Honnold Frees Muir Wall in 12 Hours, Solos Romantic Warrior

    11/14/14 - Alex Honnold led the Muir Wall (5.13b/c) on El Capitan all-free, with no falls, in 12 hours. Just a few days earlier, he finished a four-day free ascent of PreMuir (5.13c/d), which shares all but five pitches of the Muir (out of 34).

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    Clif Bar Releases Statement Regarding Dropped Athletes

    Earlier this week, Clif Bar suddenly released five climbers—Alex Honnold, Dean Potter, Steph Davis, Cedar Wright, and Timmy O’Neill—from their athlete roster. The decision sparked strong feedback from the community, which can be found in comments on their Facebook page. Today, Clif Bar released this statement, explaining their decision.

  • Remembering Dave Pegg

    When not cranking out beta, Dave was a tireless and obsessive climber, purposely making his home near the sport-climbing crucible of Rifle Mountain Park, Colorado. He brought to the task an unusual, sometimes alarming blend of traits: precise, meticulous technique on the rock, and stumbling absentmindedness on the ground; a quiet, gentle demeanor, unfazed by punishing lead falls. Though an ex-mathematician and master problem-solver, Dave showed utter disregard for the experience of his belayer or the condition of his lead rope. He trained constantly, but was the antithesis of “Type A.” He bled easily and often—his skinny, battered legs are legend—but scarcely seemed to notice. In all, Dave was at home on rock. He was comfortable and fearless there.

  • HPanchors

    Unbelayvable: Ridiculous Anchors Edition

    This week, two real climbing anchors that you have to see to believe.

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    Valley Uprising Wins Banff Grand Prize

    11/10/14 - "Valley Uprising," the documentary of Yosemite climbing culture directed by Nick Rosen, Peter Mortimer, and Josh Lowell, has won the grand prize at the Banff Mountain Film Festival. The 90-minute film, produced by Zachary Barr and Sender Films, is currently showing worldwide in the 2014 Reel Rock tour.

  • Jorg Verhoeven Frees the Nose

    11/6/14 - Dutch climber Jorg Verhoeven has free-climbed the Nose of El Capitan, becoming the first non-U.S. climber to achieve the feat.

  • HPUnBSkinny

    Unbelayvable: Skinny People Need Anchors, Too

    I was belaying from above when another climber topped out and set up next to me. He was braced over a rock with no anchor or belay device, belaying his follower by pulling up rope hand over hand. I offered to let him use my anchor, but he said, “It’s OK. She’s really light.” I did sort of convince him to belay from the anchor. Reluctantly, he clipped a locker in and looped the rope once around it (not a Munter hitch), and then continued pulling up rope. Luckily, his partner did not fall.

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    New Women's El Cap Speed Record for Mayan Smith-Gobat and Libby Sauter

    10/29/14 - Mayan Smith-Gobat and Libby Sauter have set a new women's speed record for The Nose on El Cap in Yosemite.

  • HPUnBPhone

    Unbelayvable: I Can't Belay You Right Now, I'm on the Phone

    "The leader started climbing before the belayer was set up. Then the belayer's cell phone went off, so he dropped what he was doing and answered it."

  • HPGrigriblyv

    Unbelayvable: How Not to Use a Grigri Edition

    "I heard my belayer say, 'Well, we know the grigri works.' I looked down to find him hanging a few feet off the ground with both hands on a sandwich."

  • Libby Sauter (left) and Quinn Brett atop El Capitan, midway on their push to do two routes in less than 22 hours. Photo courtesy of Quinn Brett.

    First Time: Two El Cap Routes in a Day for Women's Team

    10/18/14 - Quinn Brett and Libby Sauter have climbed two routes up El Capitan in less than 22 hours. The women climbed the Nose in 8 hours 25 minutes, descended the East Ledges, and then climbed Lurking Fear, topping out with a total time for both routes of 21 hours 17 minutes.