Rock Climbing News

Read here about all the latest rock climbing news--the hardest redpoints, the most astonishing onsights, the wildest trad climbs, and the boldest solos. If it's a ground-breaking rock climb, we've got all the details.
  • HPGrigriblyv

    Unbelayvable: How Not to Use a Grigri Edition

    "I heard my belayer say, 'Well, we know the grigri works.' I looked down to find him hanging a few feet off the ground with both hands on a sandwich."

  • Libby Sauter (left) and Quinn Brett atop El Capitan, midway on their push to do two routes in less than 22 hours. Photo courtesy of Quinn Brett.

    First Time: Two El Cap Routes in a Day for Women's Team

    10/18/14 - Quinn Brett and Libby Sauter have climbed two routes up El Capitan in less than 22 hours. The women climbed the Nose in 8 hours 25 minutes, descended the East Ledges, and then climbed Lurking Fear, topping out with a total time for both routes of 21 hours 17 minutes.

  • Devils Thumb, high over Boulder. Chasing Reality (5.13d/14a R) ascends the north face, near the left skyline. Photo by Joe Mills.

    Second Ascent of Wild Colorado Trad Route

    Five years after the first ascent, Joe Mills has done the second ascent of Matt Wilder's Cheating Reality (5.13d/14a R) on the Devils Thumb, a spectacular pinnacle high on the mountain skyline above Boulder, Colorado.

  • HPBailFail

    Unbelayvable: The Bail Fail

    "I saw a climber lose his nerve on a trad route and bail. Which is fine. But he swung over to a nearby sport route, clipped a bolt, and proceeded as follows: Swing to the original route, clean gear, swing back, lower to the next bolt, clip it, yard back up to the current bolt, clean the draw, fall on the lower bolt, and repeat."

  • Kevin Jorgeson attempting the Dawn Wall's first traverse pitch (5.14+) last fall.

    It's Dawn Wall Season for Caldwell and Jorgeson

    10/12/14 - Tommy Caldwell and Kevin Jorgeson are about to begin the eighth year of effort to free-climb the Dawn Wall on El Capitan. Caldwell and his family have arrived in the Valley, and Caldwell said he has "cleared my schedule until Christmas." Jorgeson also said he would work on the Dawn Wall this autumn until the route was done—or until winter shuts them down again.

  • SashaHP

    Sasha DiGiulian and Edu Marin Climb 1,000 Foot 5.14 in Sardinia (Video + Photos)

    This summer, Sasha DiGiulian and Edu Marin were looking to take on a big objective. They had their sights set on Zahir Plus, a 1,000 foot 5.14a in the Swiss Alps. What they found was a region inundated with rain. Zahir Plus had become a waterfall. They turned to prolific developer Dani Andrada for alternatives. He sent them to Sarninia to attempt Viaje de los Locos (The Madman's Journey). Like Zahir Plus, Viaje de los Locos is a 1,000+ foot 5.14a, but it's more sustained, more committing, and scarier. The route is 7 pitches: two 5.12c, one 5.13a, one 5.15b, one 5.13c, one 5.13c, and one 5.14a. The duo succeeded and DiGiulian claimed the first female ascent on her very last day before she had to fly back to New York City and start her semester at Columbia. See the full story in the video above.

  • Stefan Griebel (left) and Jason Wells pound across the bridge to the finish line after racing up the Naked Edge. Photo courtesy of Bill Wright.

    Naked Edge Speed Record Goes Under 25 Minutes

    10/9/14 - In the latest stage of a back-and-forth speed challenge between two pairs of Colorado-based climbers, Scott Bennett and Brad Gobright have gone under 25 minutes for climbing and descending the classic Naked Edge route in Eldorado Canyon.


    Unbelayvable: The Infamous American Death Triangle

    I was setting a toprope anchor when I noticed this anchor next to me (see above). It was the classic American death triangle, using one sling and one carabiner at the bottom.

  • HPUnbEdit

    Unbelayvable: The Amazing Mom Belay

    "I was climbing in the gym when I noticed a mom "belaying" her daughter nearby. Mom was holding the rope in her hands, pulling down slack without any form of mechanical assistance via tube-style device or Munter hitch as her daughter ascended the wall. I mentioned that she might consider getting a harness and belaying with a device, she told me she "wasn't tired" and that it was fine. Her kids weren't weightless three-year-olds, so we gave an employee a heads up. He said he disagreed with it, but there was some weird policy that allowed parents to belay how they wish, or something along those lines. A couple minutes later, we saw the same woman belaying both her daughter and her son at the same time with the same technique (see photo)."

  • HPRopeTangle

    Unbelayvable: Playing Catch With the Rope Mid-Route

  • Ethan Pringle bedded down for his first ever night in a portaledge. Photo by Cheyne Lempe.

    Ground-Up New Route on 1,000-foot Yosemite Wall

    9/18/14 - Cheyne Lempe and Ethan Pringle found a new line up the very steep north face of Higher Cathedral Rock in Yosemite Valley, only the second route up the 1,000-foot overhanging wall.

  • Kipras Baltrunas of Lithuania digs deep for his hang time of 1:22. Competitors can choose to hang with straight arms or locked off. Courtesy of Zlagboard.

    How Long Could You Hang On?

    9/17/14 - Ramón Julian Puigblanque not only took a silver medal in the lead climbing world championships last weekend, he also claimed a new world record in hangboard time. Julian clung to a pair of one-pad holds for 2 minutes 44.34 seconds to shatter the old record, set by Alex Megos earlier in September, by more than 30 seconds.