Rock Climbing News

Read here about all the latest rock climbing news--the hardest redpoints, the most astonishing onsights, the wildest trad climbs, and the boldest solos. If it's a ground-breaking rock climb, we've got all the details.
  • Fred Beckey (left) and Eric Bjornstad celebrating a first ascent in Monument Valley in the 1960s. Eric Bjornstad Collection.

    Desert Pioneer Eric Bjornstad Has Died

    12/17/14 - Eric Bjornstad has passed away after a long illness. The longtime resident of Moab, Utah, wrote the original comprehensive guidebook to rock climbing on the Colorado Plateau, Desert Rock, first published in 1988 and later expanded to four volumes.

  • HPUNB

    Unbelayvable: The Best of the Worst of 2014! (Part 1)

    This week we're highlighting some of the must unbelievable Unbelayvable stories of 2014. It's one superlative you don't want to achieve.

  • HPUnBDontTellMom

    Unbelayvable: Don't Get Hurt or Mom will be Mad

    "There was no harness, no belay device, and no anchor. He yelled to his kids, 'Don’t get hurt or your mom will never let us do this again!'"

  • HPUnblyvUnwilling

    Unbelayvable: The Unwilling Leader

    "The girl had no outdoor experience but went up a 5.7 on lead at the coaxing of her boyfriend. She cruxed out partway up, but her boyfriend refused to lower her. He just kept yelling that she could do it. She then down-climbed to a very small ledge and untied from the rope."

  • Tommy Caldwell on the 14th pitch (5.14d) of the Dawn Wall. Photo by Jeff Johnson.

    Dawn Wall: Major Hurdle Cleared, Final Push Planned for December

    11/19/14 - Tommy Caldwell has free-climbed the 14th pitch of the Dawn Wall on El Capitan, which means that either he or Kevin Jorgeson now has redpointed every 5.14 section of the route.

  • Honnold Frees Muir Wall in 12 Hours, Solos Romantic Warrior

    11/14/14 - Alex Honnold led the Muir Wall (5.13b/c) on El Capitan all-free, with no falls, in 12 hours. Just a few days earlier, he finished a four-day free ascent of PreMuir (5.13c/d), which shares all but five pitches of the Muir (out of 34).

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    Clif Bar Releases Statement Regarding Dropped Athletes

    Earlier this week, Clif Bar suddenly released five climbers—Alex Honnold, Dean Potter, Steph Davis, Cedar Wright, and Timmy O’Neill—from their athlete roster. The decision sparked strong feedback from the community, which can be found in comments on their Facebook page. Today, Clif Bar released this statement, explaining their decision.

  • Remembering Dave Pegg

    When not cranking out beta, Dave was a tireless and obsessive climber, purposely making his home near the sport-climbing crucible of Rifle Mountain Park, Colorado. He brought to the task an unusual, sometimes alarming blend of traits: precise, meticulous technique on the rock, and stumbling absentmindedness on the ground; a quiet, gentle demeanor, unfazed by punishing lead falls. Though an ex-mathematician and master problem-solver, Dave showed utter disregard for the experience of his belayer or the condition of his lead rope. He trained constantly, but was the antithesis of “Type A.” He bled easily and often—his skinny, battered legs are legend—but scarcely seemed to notice. In all, Dave was at home on rock. He was comfortable and fearless there.

  • HPanchors

    Unbelayvable: Ridiculous Anchors Edition

    This week, two real climbing anchors that you have to see to believe.

  • Valley-Uprising-xl

    Valley Uprising Wins Banff Grand Prize

    11/10/14 - "Valley Uprising," the documentary of Yosemite climbing culture directed by Nick Rosen, Peter Mortimer, and Josh Lowell, has won the grand prize at the Banff Mountain Film Festival. The 90-minute film, produced by Zachary Barr and Sender Films, is currently showing worldwide in the 2014 Reel Rock tour.

  • Jorg Verhoeven Frees the Nose

    11/6/14 - Dutch climber Jorg Verhoeven has free-climbed the Nose of El Capitan, becoming the first non-U.S. climber to achieve the feat.

  • HPUnBSkinny

    Unbelayvable: Skinny People Need Anchors, Too

    I was belaying from above when another climber topped out and set up next to me. He was braced over a rock with no anchor or belay device, belaying his follower by pulling up rope hand over hand. I offered to let him use my anchor, but he said, “It’s OK. She’s really light.” I did sort of convince him to belay from the anchor. Reluctantly, he clipped a locker in and looped the rope once around it (not a Munter hitch), and then continued pulling up rope. Luckily, his partner did not fall.