Rock Climbing News

Read here about all the latest rock climbing news--the hardest redpoints, the most astonishing onsights, the wildest trad climbs, and the boldest solos. If it's a ground-breaking rock climb, we've got all the details.
  • HPBelayer

    Unbelayvable: Extreme Rope Soloing

    "We passed a guy on the second pitch of his route lead belaying himself with a tube-style belay device. He was free climbing from an anchor he’d built and was placing quite a bit of gear. He told us that he just had to grab the brake strand really quick if he fell. He proudly proclaimed that he’d caught himself this way before (and tore up his hands in the process). At the base, his friend, who was wearing a tree-climbing harness, explained that he would be belaying, but his shoulder was bothering him."

  • Poo

    Study Finds 'Fecal Veneer' on Gym Holds

    8/11/14 - The next time your gym partner says "That's a crappy hold!" she may mean more than size or texture. In a study published this summer in Current Microbiology, researchers found that every gym hold they tested had traces of microorganisms associated with fecal matter.

  • Colin Moorhead leading pitch 3 (5.11c) of the Tiger. Photo by Blake Herrington.

    Beautiful New Testpiece in North Cascades

    8/8/14 - Blake Herrington, Colin Moorhead, and Max Tepfer have created a challenging 1,000-foot free climb near the famous Liberty Bell in the Washington Pass area of the North Cascades. The Tiger (11 pitches, 5.12b) has six leads of 5.10+ or harder in a semi-alpine setting.

  • Pete Whittaker enjoying Century Crack (5.14) on the cover of Climbing 301. Photo by Alex Ekins.

    Pete Whittaker Solos 150 British Extremes in a Day

    7/30/14 - Briton's Pete Whittaker has soloed 150 gristone routes in the Peak District graded E1 or harder, or roughly hard 5.9 and up, in one day. Whittaker started at 4 a.m. and visited six crags during the day, climbing routes as hard as E6 6b (about 5.12d/13a).

  • HPDraw

    Unbelayvable: Quickdraws Aren't Decorative

    "I saw a climber lower from a draw in the middle of a sport route because she couldn't finish it. Then her partner tried the route. Instead of pulling the rope or toproping from the high clip, he tied into what should have been the belay side of the rope. He headed up, cleaning the draws that his rope was running through above him. When he got to the former high clip, he cruised right on past it. That put him back clipped above a single piece of protection 35 feet off the deck. Luckily, he finished the route without any falls."

  • Hiking in to Keeler Needle (center) at dawn on Day One of the 4x4. Photo by Aaron Richards.

    The 4x4: Croft's Big Four Sierra Routes Back to Back

    7/23/14 - When California-based guides Ian McEleney and Aaron Richards read about the "Big Four" Sierra Nevada alpine routes in Peter Croft's The Good, the Great, and the Awesome guidebook, a seed was planted. This summer that seed sprouted into an impressive endurance challenge: Climb all four of these Sierra classics back to back in four days.

  • 180Sandwich

    Unbelayvable: The Case Of The Disappearing Belayer

    "I finished the route and shouted 'Off belay, Jason!' a couple times, but didn't hear a response. I looked down to find that my belayer was gone. He had heard someone else at the busy crag shout "off belay," thought it was me, and left to go get a sandwich."

  • Jumper Dies at Deep Water Soloing Area in Mallorca

    7/17/14 - A 23-year-old died yesterday at a deep water soloing area on the Mediterranean island of Mallorca. After jumping from the cliffs at the Dique del Oeste area, the man stayed underwater for 20 minutes for unknown reasons and presumably drowned.

  • HPHarness

    Unbelayvable: Little Climber, Big Harness

    "Seen at Foster Falls, TN. Some guys tyed an extra small girl into one of their extra large harnesses (see photo). Her waist could've fit through the leg loop!"

  • Alexander Megos: Realization (5.15a) in One Day

    7/12/14 - The German phenom Alexander Megos, 20, has completed a one-day ascent of Realization, generally accepted as the world's first 5.15a, at Ceüse, France. Megos redpointed the route July 11 on his third try.

  • HPHipBly

    Unbelayvable: Unnecessary Hip Belays

    "When he was 15 feet up, the belayer sauntered over and put the rope around his back. He was attempting to hip belay, but he wasn’t braced against anything. My friend and I asked, 'Why are you hip belaying?' He shot back, 'Because we’re old!' They were no more than 35. The kicker: he had an ATC hanging from his harness."

  • HPUnbelayv

    Unbelayvable: Don't End A First Date By Decking

    "He had clipped the rope through the ATC with a locking biner in the proper place, but instead of clipping that to his belay loop, he clipped a separate biner through the ATC’s wire and secured himself to that. I warned him about the danger, to which he responded, 'Thats fine. I always do it like that, never had a problem.'"