Russia's Evgeniya Malamid Onsights 5.14a


4/23/13 - Russian climber Evgeniya Malamid has onsighted Los Humildes pa Casa (5.14a) in Oliana, Spain.

The 26-year-old wasn't expecting to finish the route first try, according to 8a.nu: "It was just the last route of the day, and I wasn't going to onsight it," Malamid said. Los Humildes pa Casa was originally set up as a 5.14b, but consensus from a plethora of repeat ascents has settled to 5.14a. Very few females have managed this feat. In 2010, Charlotte Durif made history when she onsighted Le roi du pétrole (5.14b) and Smails paradis (5.14a) Pic Saint Loup, France.

Two months ago, Malamid completed her hardest ascent yet with Mind Control (5.14c), just to the left of Los Humildes pa Casa. Yesterday, she redpointed China Crisis (5.14a), also in Oliana.

Last year, Malamid ranked ninth in the Lead World Cup competitions. She is currently a member of the IFSC Athletes Commission.

Date of onsight: April 20, 2013

Sources: 8a.nu, climbing.com

 



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