Sasha Describes Her Second 5.14 FA in South Africa


Sasha DiGiulian on the big overhang of Miss-Behaving (5.14a) at Montagu, South Africa.

Sasha DiGiulian on the big overhang of Miss-Behaving (5.14a) at Montagu, South Africa. Photo by Keith Ladzinski / Three Strings Media.

7/22/13 - Just before she was due to depart South Africa, Sasha DiGiulian redpointed an open project at the Montagu area for the second 5.14 first ascent during her short visit. Miss-Behaving (5.14a) climbs out a huge roof line: "power endurance with increasing difficulty in the movements to the anchors," according to her post at 8a.nu. The line was bolted a decade ago by Sean Marsh.

"I went to Montagu to try it with Arjan de Kock [a leading South African rock climber]," DiGiulian said. "To be honest, it was hard to be motivated on it at first because I couldn't do the final move, which is a jump to a precise hold."

Over the three days she worked on the route, the moves came together, but her return flight to the U.S. was looming. "The day I did the route was quite miraculous actually," she said. "I could see the route taking form, but I didn't know about sending because I had only tried it a few times and it was the end of the trip. However, on what I thought was going to be my last try at the end of the day, I slipped while clipping the anchor. With limited light left, and knowing it was all or nothing, I waited about 10 to 15 minutes, belaying Arjan on a redpoint attempt, then let everything go and climbed for the movement, for the last try, and, BOOM!, I sent!"

Two weeks earlier, DiGiulian nabbed the first ascent of Rolihlahla at the Waterval Boven area. She believed the beautiful line of crimps across an overhanging shield might be 5.14b, but three quick repeats, including one by American Paige Claassen, have settled the grade around 5.14a.

Date of ascent: July 20, 2013

Sources: Sasha DiGiulian, Facebook, 8a.nu


Comments

Actually Rolihlahla was settled to be 13d.

Beast T. - 07/25/2013 7:03:32

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