September 2008 - 269

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Cover: Just another All-Around Routine (5.14b) for Chris Lindner, Shadow Buttress, Ibex, Utah. Photos: Tim Kemple

Cover: Just another All-Around Routine (5.14b) for Chris Lindner, Shadow Buttress, Ibex, Utah. Photos: Tim Kemple

FEATURES

GALLERYIbex, Utah, might be the Middle of Nowhere, but that doesn’t mean it lacks for killer sport or world-class bouldering. Here, Tim Kemple gives an inside view of the Ibex high end.

FAITH-BASED INITIATIVETune up your huevos and get ready for a second dose of Ibex. This time it’s trad-style, ground-up, using animal instinct to tame virgin stone at this remote West Desert treasure trove.By Jeff Hollenbaugh Photos by Kennan Harvey

HALF THE STORYAdieu, Hueco. Sayonara, Bishop. The real bouldering explosion centers on a hillside in Turkey. And with tens of thousands of blocs yet to explore, everyone’s invited.Story and Photos by Boone Speed

AMERICAN MEATBALLSTwo psyched yankees visit Bohuslän, Sweden, home to the world’s best trad cragging. The only problem? The grades are harsher than Ming the Merciless . . . especially on the offwidths.By Mike Brumbaugh Photos by Jonas Paulsson

ANOTHER ONE DRIVES THE BUSWhy Boulder, Colorado, climbers have been driving the big, yellow bus for more than a quarter century.By Chris Weidner Photos by Celin Serbo

September 2008 - 269

DEPARTMENTS

CONTRIBUTORS Ann Raber, Jeff Hollenbaugh, Boone Speed, and Kennan Harvey

EDITORIAL Is climbing a “sport”?

LETTERS BASECAMP JUST OUT HOT FLASHES OFF THE WALL PLAYERS TEN THINGS GET SCRAPPY SPORTING LIFE SUSTAINED

CLASSIC CLIMBSRecom-Beast (III 5.9) — a beast from the East, with a distinctly trad New Hampshire flourish

TECH TIPSport: Gymkata for women — warding off roving predators at the training dojo. Plus, “Coug-Alert!” for guys. . . .

REVIEWSA Perfecto way to deep-water solo, on DVD; Contact: essays on climbers’ connection to the environment; and Eric J. Hörst’s most comprehensive training manual to date

PERSPECTIVEBoone Sheridan Speed: photographer, product designer, area developer, entrepreneur, smack talker; Portland, Oregon