Chris Sharma has onsighted two 5.14 routes at Maple Canyon, Utah, in a long weekend of climbing. Sharma, who hadn’t been to Maple for at least a decade, onsighted T-Rex (5.14a/b) in the enormous Pipe Dream cave, high above the canyon.
During his second day, he onsighted Whole Shot (5.13d/14a), Toxic Turkey (5.13c), and several other climbs in the Pipe Dream cave. Obviously climbing with a huge reserve of endurance in the wake of his first ascent of Jumbo Love (5.15b)at Clark Mountain, Sharma returned to the Pipe Dream on his last day in Maple and onsighted Divine Fury (5.14b). Unaware of (or avoiding) the route’s crucial kneebars, he hung on for 24 minutes to onsight the route.
Onsighting at Maple Canyon is considered particularly difficult because of the beta-intensive nature of the routes. The overhanging canyon walls are comprised of conglomerate embedded with huge cobbles, requiring prior knowledge and trickery to reduce the pump through efficient climbing.
Dates of Ascents: mid-September 2008