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9/11/12 - Jonathan Siegrist has completed his latest project with Algorithm (5.14d) in Idaho's Fins, in the southern part of the Lost River Range, giving Idaho its hardest sport climb.
Siegrist Completes 5.14d in Idaho’s Fins
After sampling the majority of the established lines at The Fins, a limestone crag with soaring vertical and slightly overhanging, pocketed walls, Siegrist set his sights on bolting and climbing this ca. 45-meter-long pitch at the Discovery Wall. (He needed an 80-meter rope, which was barely long enough.)
“The cruxes are not at all straightforward, and I found myself breaking up each hold and each individual movement into its own problem to best find a method through the entire route,” Siegrist said in an email. “It required more work just to figure out the sequences than I usually expect. I thought the problem-solving method I used was somewhat algorithmic.”
After starting up Son of Discovery (5.13a), Algorithm ventures right into sharp, sequential, thin, and powerful climbing before the 5.14, 60-foot headwall.
“It’s a huge pitch,” Siegrist said. “There’s a lot of climbing variety on it, but the meat of the climbing is in the two cruxes: one mid-height and one way up there [at the top]. Both are very thin, with long moves and horrible feet. The upper crux is pumpy, thrilling, and amazing! The overall route is definitely sharp; the skin takes a beating.”
Date of ascent: September 8, 2012
Sources: Jonathan Siegrist, SEI Climbing
Comments
Siegrist is amazing!
cl_admin - 09/19/2012 2:52:36