New Route on Moose's Tooth
4/24/13 - Dani Arnold and David Lama have climbed a bold and difficult route up the storied east face of the Moose's Tooth in Alaska. The Swiss-Austrian duo raced up the nearly mile-high route above the Buckskin Glacier in just two long days, followed by a nighttime rappel of the route to return to camp 48 hours after leaving.
The new route, Bird of Prey (6a M7+ 90° ice A2), climbs a direct line between Dance of the Woo-Li Masters (Bridwell-Stump, 1981) and Arctic Rage (Gilmore-Mahoney, 2004). In addition to steep and technical dry-tooling, the route required several wild pendulums to bypass unclimbable obstacles. This was Arnold and Lama's first climb in Alaska.
Lama's website has a good account of the climb with photos.
Dates of ascent: April 12-14, 2013
Sources: david-lama.com, American Alpine Journal