Taylor Has Pure Imagination (5.14d)

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4/11/11 - News link: Adam Taylor of Kentucky redpointed Jonathan Siegrist's Pure Imagination (5.14d) at the Chocolate Factory in the Red River Gorge, making the route's second ascent. The line sits near the Red's other 5.14d, The Golden Ticket, that Taylor himself FA'd in October 2009.

Taylor began working the route last year, getting close to sending after a month of effort before a hold broke, causing him to figure out a new sequence. Then Taylor broke his wrist, forcing him off the routefor for a while. This time around, it took him fewer than 10 attempts to send.

Here's how Siegrist describes the route: "After some easy initial climbing, the route fires directly into a very serious boulder problem on thin, very sharp edges, finishing with a wild, all-points-off sideways dyno to a resting jug. From here, the route carries on with difficult lock-offs on crimps and pockets to surprisingly frequent, albeit worsening, rests. Towards the top lies the a longest section of uninterrupted hard climbing that finishes with a reachy, shouldery lock-off (redpoint crux). There is a solid rest at the final bolt before you climb a series of pockets and long moves guarding the chains." Watch his ascent below.

Date of ascent: April 3, 2011

Source: dpmclimbing.com

Pure Imagination from ARC'TERYX on Vimeo.