Two New Routes in Peru



Beautiful rock climbing on the lower East Buttress of Cayangate.
Photos courtesy of Chris Alstrin.

An American trio climbed two new routes in the Cordillera Vilcanota of southern Peru, including a beautiful buttress on 20,046-foot Cayangate. 

Chris Alstrin, Andrew Frost, and Mark Hesse warmed up by pioneering an 1,800-foot steep snow route on the Northwest Face of 20,033-foot Nevado Chumpe. 

With that route in the bag, they turned to the 3,800-foot East Buttress of Cayangate, which starts with 1,000 feet of sustained 5.9 rock climbing leading to 1,500 feet of mixed rock and ice and then a final alpine ridge. Snowfall before the climb created more mixed climbing than they had expected, and the middle section involved difficulties up to M5+. The three climbers spent two nights on the route, with temperatures dropping to –15°F, and then rappelled from glacial ice to return to the base.

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The East Buttress of Cayangate (20,046 feet).
Photos courtesy of Chris Alstrin.
 



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