Wild New Route at Willoughby

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Doug Dillon, Will Mayo and Alden Pellett have climbed a much-watched-but-never-formed ice climb at Lake Willoughby in Vermont. Pipe Dream (WI 6 R/X M5) takes a three-pitch direct line to the left of the ephemeral Called on Account of Rains on New England’s most impressive ice cliff. Pellett led the crux first pitch, a 50-meter, one- to two-foot-wide pencil with very poor protection. Mayo, who arrived late at the cliff and raced to the base to join his partners, followed the pitch, then led the 60-meter WI 4/4+ second pitch. Above this, Mayo led a wild 50-meter pitch of ice blobs and M5 mixed climbing, capped by a short free-hanging icicle, with good protection.

Pipe Dream had long been eyed as a potential route, but had never formed to the ground before this extremely wet New England autumn. Comment on this story