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Climbing Videos
Photo: Earl Wiggins on the first ascent of Supercrack, Indian Creek, Utah. Photo by Ed Webster. Please submit work to afox@aimmedia.com.
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 Petzl RocTrip China 2011
Video by Petzl - In October 2011, more than 600 climbers gathered for Petzl RocTrip China. All participants discovered and enjoyed more than 250 brand-new pitches on unbelievable limestone. Among the highlights of the film, watch Dani Andrada's first ascent of the extremely difficult, seven-pitch Corazon de Ensueno (5.14b), a route he put up in 2010 over the course of two trips to the area to prepare for the RocTrip. For this outstanding feat, Dani was awarded Climbing magazine's prestigious Golden Piton.  Crack School, Episode 3: Fist Cracks
Video by Wild Country - "Crack School" is a series of six short videos designed to utilize the skills and knowledge of Wild Country climbers Tom Randall and Pete Whittaker to give an introduction to basics of crack climbing. The guys will cover all widths of cracks—fingers, hands, fists, and offwidths—as well as gear placement, taping up, body position, and overall technique. Designed for those who know nothing about crack climbing, these six videos will illustrate the most pertinent points for starting out.  Hayden Kennedy on Carbondale Short Bus (5.14-), Indian Creek
Video by Duct Tape Then Beer - Hayden Kennedy makes the first ascent of Carbondale Short Bus (5.14-) in Indian Creek, Utah. Attaching the 5.14- grade means this is likely the hardest route in Indian Creek. Nick Martino first attempted the route, at the 4X4 Wall, back in 2007 and called it the "Kansas City Special." Kennedy credits his tall (6'2") and lanky frame for helping him with one of the cruxes. Read more here.  Enzo Oddo on the Red's Hardest Climbs
Video by Prana - Enzo Oddo and friends spent a month this spring on the steep, pumpy climbs in Kentucky's Red River Gorge. A few of the harder climbs got Enzo fired up, which helped fuel his redpoint of Pure Imagination (5.14d). They soaked up the local culture and had some teenage fun. Routes in the video include Pure Imagination (5.14d), Lucifer (5.14c), Southern Smoke (5.14c), The Golden Ticket (5.14c/d), and Forty Two Karats (5.14c).  Two 5.14d First Ascents in 75 Minutes
Video by Pirmin Bertle - Pirmin Bertle made two 5.14d first ascents on March 30: Chromosome Y and Chromosome X at the Tribune in Switzerland. These are his sixth and seventh 5.14d ascents. Each climb took him about 40 attempts; the day he sent, he finished Chromosome X at 7:00 p.m. and Chromosome Y at 8:15 p.m. Read more at lizardclimbing.com.  Chris Schulte Bouldering in the Colorado Winter
Video by Black Diamond - Chris Schulte lives and breathes bouldering 24/7, 365. So it's no surprise that he makes the best of Colorado winters and gets out bouldering even in cold, snowy conditions. What is surprising, as you hear in this video, is that Schulte actually prefers it to be freezing cold.  Stoney Point Documentary Trailer (extended cut)
Video by Half Circle G Productions - "Stoney Point: Portrait of an American Crag" is a feature-length documentary on the unique history and climbing culture of a small city park on the outskirts of Los Angeles. Though often overlooked, few climbing areas can compare with the rich and storied history of Stoney Point. For the last 80 years, the Point has served as a breeding ground for some of America’s greatest climbers. Royal Robbins, Yvon Chouinard, John Bachar, Michael Reardon, and many more were all at one time or another Stoney locals.  Team ABC in Hueco Tanks, Texas
Video by Stefan Lavender - A video of the Boulder, Colorado-based youth climbing team, Team ABC, bouldering in Hueco Tanks, Texas. Shawn and Brooke Raboutou, whose mother Robyn Erbesfield-Raboutou coaches the team, climb Chablanke (V11), Good Day for a Swiss Crisp Mix (V10), and Dead Serious (V10). Shawn, 13, has climbed up to 5.14b with his ascent of Welcome to Tijuana in Rodellar, Spain, and Brooke, 10, recently climbed God's Own Stone (5.14a) in the Red River Gorge, Kentucky.  Smash & Grab - An Ascent of Burkett Needle
Video by Dave Burdick - In September 2011, Dave Burdick, John Frieh, and Zac West made the first ascent of the east arête of Burkett Needle in Alaska, which they called Repeat Offender (IV 5.9 M5 AI3). The team flew from Seattle to the Burkett Glacier on September 9 with a two-day weather window with their sights on a line on Mt. Burkett. Dangerous conditions, however, prompted their decision to instead focus on the east side of Burkett Needle (8,500'). Read more here.  Cedar Wright on The Wisdom (5.11+), Eldorado Canyon
Video by Black Diamond - John Dickey filmed and edited a day-in-the-life of Cedar Wright, from mixing music and editing footage to tackling one of Colorado's most classic 5.11s: The Wisdom, an airy line with substantial whipper potential from the crux 5.11+ pitch, at Redgarden Wall. From Steve Levin's guidebook, Eldorado Canyon, A Climbing Guide: "A fall from the crux is safe, likely, and absolutely terrifying—tradition prohibits rating it 5.12a."  Crack School, Episode 2: Hand Cracks
Video by Wild Country - "Crack School" is a series of six short videos designed to utilize the skills and knowledge of Wild Country climbers Tom Randall and Pete Whittaker to give an introduction to basics of crack climbing. The guys will cover all widths of cracks—fingers, gands, fists, and offwidths—as well as gear placement, taping up, body position, and overall technique. Designed for those who know nothing about crack climbing, these six videos will illustrate the most pertinent points for starting out.  Three Stars at Rumbling Bald, NC
Video by Jonathan Carter - Here's a video from Rumbling Bald, North Carolina, featuring several three-star problems: Slave Driver (V3; it's a really great line and a great place to start in this section of the boulderfield); Clear Water (V9/10; difficult opening moves set up a big throw to a sloper from good but small crimps and a fidgety heel hook); Optimus Prime (V8; the several tough moves up this short face really pack a punch. Hit this one in prime (cold) conditions); The Sail (V4; pretty easy opening moves lure you into a high crux throw).  Dean Potter: Race for the Nose
Video by Prana - In a wild ascent, Dean Potter and Sean Leary set the speed record for climbing up the Nose of Yosemite Valley's El Capitan in November 2010. They ran up the 31-pitch route in 2 hours, 36 minutes, 45 seconds—20 seconds faster than the previous record held by Yuji Hirayama and Hans Florine. Read more about the ascent here.  Alpine Fever, Part Three - RMNP
Video by Ivo Penchev - "Alpine Fever" is a climbing movie combining different alpine bouldering areas located in Colorado. Part Three shows some new and established boulders. Video was taken during the summer of 2011. Climbers are James Webb, Brion Voges, Rob D'Anastasio, Sam Johnson, John Gass, and Ivo Penchev.  Michael O'Rourke: 15 V10s/V11s in a Week
Video by Stefan Lavender - During a seven-day trip to Joe's Valley, Utah, 17-year-old Michael O'Rourke climbed seven V11s and eight V10s, all which took less than an hour to finish. Climbs in this video include Fiery Furnace (V10), Skeleton Key (V11), and Worm Turns (V11). O'Rourke has climbed up to V13, with an ascent of Free Range in Boulder Canyon, Colorado.  Weekend Warriors with Rob Pizem
Video by Arc'teryx - Think that being a weekend warrior is hurting your climbing? Meet Rob Pizem, a full-time teacher, family man, and weekend warrior. Rob's boundless energy is poured into an obsession for new routes, but he also makes time for a regular life. As Rob says: "Use your time wisely. Don't mess around, get it done!" Piz recently made the first ascent of Escalante Canyon, Colorado's hardest route, The Frank Zappa Appreciation Society (5.13+). Read more here.  Melloblocco 2012 with Anthony Gullsten and Michele Caminati
Video by Sandstones - The 2012 Melloblocco in Italy wasn't blessed by good weather, but the first day was pretty epic. Everybody was giving 200 percent knowing that the two last days may be spent between espresso and beers. The energy around was incredible and the landscape stunning! This video features the three problems that Andy Gullsten and Michele Caminati did, a stunning warmup by Ramon Julian Puigblanque, and an appearance by Gabriele Moroni.  2012 Bouldering World Cup #3 - Vienna, Austria
Video by Udo Neumann - In the third bouldering World Cup of 2012, Akiyo Noguchi (Japan) and Rustam Gelmanov (Russia) took home the gold. Noguchi also won the first event in Chongqing, China; Gelmanov won the second event in Log-Dragomer, Slovenia. Second place saw Mina Markovic (Slovenia) and Dmitri Sharafutdinov (Russia), followed by Alex Puccio and Kilian Fischhuber (Austria) in third.  Chasing J-Star, Episode 1
Video by Arc'teryx - In this three-part series. we follow Jonathan Siegrist around North America as he hits different areas from western Canada to Kentucky. Along the way, Siegrist sends new routes and repeats area classics, and ultimately faces his greatest challenge to date. In Episode 1, Jonathan Siegrist visits Equinox in Washington, and then heads to Horne Lake on Vancouver Island. Episodes two and three coming soon.  Yosemite Range of Light
Video by Shawn Reeder - "I am a destination visual artist who specializes in photography, timelapse cinematography, and filmmaking. Yosemite National Park, the High Sierra, and the Eastern Sierra are some of the most beautiful places on earth. Ever since I serendipitously won a trip to Yosemite when I was 18, the beautiful Range of Light has captured my heart and become my home. Nothing brings me more joy than to share this life changing beauty with others." |
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