The Dirtbag Diaries - The Shorts - Friends In High Places
By Fitz Cahall - Climber and Diaries contributor Kelly Cordes is what you would call an early adopter. Kelly may live in a shack at 8,000 feet, but the guy is no cretin. He’s had an email account for four years now. He knows how to program a VCR. He’s even considered buying one of those new-fangled Blueberry phones. What can I say? Kelly is a mover and a shaker. The guy’s approach to new technology is as cutting edge as his alpine endeavors, but even seasoned pros have the occasional misstep.
Careless Torque (8a), Stanage Plantation, Peak District, UK
Video by Wild Country - Ned Feehally, the current British Bouldering Champion, makes a rare ascent of Careless Torque (Font 8a), caught on camera in blustery and cool conditions on Sunday, September 6th, 2009. Feehally, who did the 6th, 7th or even 8th ascent of this awesome three star highball, actually managed to do the bottom crux section six times (which is the 8a bit) before unlocking the upper, 7b+ arête to claim another ascent.
Welsh Connections - Trailer
Video by Dave Brown / Bamboo Chicken Productions - Welcome to rock climbing in Wales! A cocktail of diverse climbing; from hard trad onsights and first ascents, to intense limestone sport, slate, bouldering and deep water soloing.The new climbing film from Bamboo Chicken Productions features climbers: Pete Robins, Tim Emmett, Johnny Dawes, James McHaffie, Pete Whittaker, Nick Bullock, Chris Doyle, Chris Davies and Gav Symonds. Out on DVD - November 16th, 2009. Trailer cut by Ben Knapp.
Sweet Bloc: Bouldering La Proue at Medonnet, France
Video by Sébastien Montaz-Rosset / jefilm.com - Guillaume and Seb present a boulder line called La Proue (Font 7a+ or V7) in Médonnet near Chamonix, France. The gneiss bouldering of Médonnet, nestled within in a beautiful mountain forest, is perfect for the warm days of summer and is said to have a Fontainebleau-esque feel with many flat landings. The blocs are situated 25-30 minutes driving from Chamonix toward the ski resort of Megève. The area offers three main sectors with several hundred problems from french boulder grade 2-8a.
Sweet Highline: Tours Saint Jacques, French Alps
Video by Sébastien Montaz-Rosset / jefilm.com - The Je Ne Sais Quoi filming team presents the second video of this series on another beautiful highline in Les Bauges Mountain Ranges in the French Alps. Jelena is leading the fine art of rigging a highline and thenshe is successful in sending it with style. Julien, as always, is pushing the limits of balance. Thanks to Raph and Guillaume for climbing and rigging. And, Seb is having fun filming and slacking as always.
Samsara and Pra Caramba Trailers - 2009 Adventure Film Festival
Videos by Renan Ozturk and Cedar Wright courtesy of BlueWaterRopes Blogspot.com to premiere at the Adventure Film Festival in Boulder, Colorado - On November 12-14 in Boulder, Colorado, the Fifth Annual Adventure Film Festival will premiere the most exciting and inspiring award-winning independent films from around the world. The festival is dedicated to all aspects of adventure from serious exploration to environmental heroism to gripping tales from the edge of the believable. Renan Ozturk's "Samsara" and Cedar Wright's "Pra Caramba" will both premiere at this year's festival.
A Day in the Life of Conrad Anker
Video by Renan Ozturk courtesy of BlueWaterRopes Blogspot.com - This is a short "Day in the Life" video that follows Blue Water Athlete Conrad Anker out for his first time up The Naked Edge in Eldorado Canyon, one of the most classic multi pitch 5.11s in Colorado. Conrad has been pushing the limits of Adventure for the last 30 years and is now becoming a fervent advocate of environmental and social responsibility.
The Beta: Super Mario and Mystery Groove, Stone Fort, TN
Video by Andrew Kornylak - In this fourth Beta video, Colorado native Andy Wellman tells us how he ended up in Chattanooga, Tennessee by way of Horse Pens 40, Alabama, and shows how to crush two Stone Fort (aka Little Rock City) classic V4's, Super Mario and Mystery Groove. Hound Ears in Boone, NC went down on October 3rd, Horse Pens-40 in Steele, AL on November 7th is next, concluding with the Stone Fort in Chattanooga, TN on December 5th.
American Lifestyle: Joshua Tree
Video by Romain Desgranges - Join French climbers Romain Desgranges and Fred Rouhling in a 20-minute video as they explore the wild and wondrous quartz monzonite boulders of California's Joshua Tree National Park. There's footage of everything from JTree's classic problems to the many V-hard, tip shredding and highball testpieces found throughout the nearly 800,000-acre park. Even a local bobcat and coyote make an appearance in this inspiring video, narrated in French, that seeks to capture the experience of bouldering in the heart of the Mojave Desert.
Psychedelia 2009
Video by Gabor Szekely - Psychedelia the Fifth Annual Spot Bouldering Series Comp #2 held on October 24th, 2009, was THE black-light climbing comp for the Halloween season. Crazy costume contest, psychedlic climbing comp bathed neon colors, free Wahoo's Fish Tacos, and Avery Beer and raffles that included: 10 pairs of Native sunglasses, 4 pairs of Scarpa rock shoes, 4 pairs of Evolv rock shoes, 4 outfits from Prana, and much much more. This year's event was won my Paul Robinson and Alex Puccio.
The Continuum Project - Trailer
Video by Chris Alstrin / alstrinfilms.com - Shot entirely in High Definition, watch as Guy Lacelle, Audrey Gariepy and Mathieu Audibert establish terrifying new ice routes in Norway and Rob Pizem and Mike Anderson crush brawny off-widths and delicate face climbing in Zion. Get on route with Ines Papert and Cory Richards as they blitz Kwangde Shar in Nepal and witness Majka Burhardt and Sarah Watson free the Beckey Route on Elephant’s Perch in the Sawtooths. Discover the rewards and risks of exploration with Jon Walsh and Ian Welsted as they establish a beautiful new mixed line in the remote Icefall Brook range of British Columbia and cool down on the difficult sport routes of Lions Head in Ontario with Sam Elias, Emily Harrington, Leslie Timms and Lauren Lee.
Brian Kim on Still Life (5.14b) and Excessive Tunnel Power (5.13c)
Videos by GearVideos - Brian Kim is shown here on the third ascent of Still Life (5.14b or 8c) at Summersville Lake, West Virginia. The line consists of 13b climbing followed by to two distinct boulder problem cruxes that are roughly V7 and V5. Also shown is Kim redpointing a route at Mormon Hollow in Western Massachusetts. The line, Excessive Tunnel Power (5.13c or 8a+), has powerful roof climbing and is a link-up of two existing climbs out a massive 30 foot roof . This new start links up the cruxes of a 12d and 13a on good, textured rock and awesome shaped holds.
Interview with Randy Leavitt in Maple Canyon, UT
Video by SanukFootwear - Randy Leavitt, based in southern California, has made first ascents and climbed all over the world for more than 30 years. He is respected for producing both hard traditional climbs and bolting futuristic sport climbs. Sanuk provides creative, distinctively designed footwear products for the global outdoor community. Including sandals, Not-A-Shoe Sidewalk Surfers, and smiles. Honored with the SIMA 2007 Footwear Product of the Year and the 2009 Irvine Soft Bocce Champions, Sanuks Sidewalk Surfers are known as "Not-A-Shoe" for their comfort and patented sandal construction.
A Day in The Life of Tommy Caldwell
Video by Cedar Wright - This is a short video for BlueWater Ropes that gives you a peak into the climbing legend's training regimen, and philosophy on the climbing life. I attempted to keep up with Tommy for a typical training day and was sore for a week! Tommy is arguably the best bigwall freeclimber in the world, but what sets him apart is his down to earth happy go lucky nature and fun loving demeanor. Tommy is training for a free ascent of Mescalito on El Capitan which if he can pull it off, will be in my opinion, the hardest bigwall free climb in the world.
Bouldering and Highlining near Chamonix, France
Videos by Sébastien Montaz-Rosset - "Higher, together" is a story of friendship and discovery on a unique day of bouldering with two good friends at a new limestone area close to our home in Chamonix, France. "Highline Vertigo" features Julien Millot, Yele Na, Raph Lagrange, Damien Mercier and Seb Montaz walking a highline at the Tête du Parmelan, Annecy, France. This was the most spectacular highline session I have ever seen with a loose line and high winds.
Hound Ears Recap - 2009 Triple Crown Bouldering Series
Video by Andrew Kornylak / www.akornphoto.com - Highlights from the first leg of the 2009 Triple Crown Bouldering Series, at Hound Ears, in Boone, North Carolina. The 2009 Triple Crown Bouldering Series is the biggest, most bodacious outdoor boulder series and it's back again - for the 7th time - beginning with Hound Ears in Boone, NC on October 3rd, followed by Horse Pens-40 in Steele, AL on November 7th, and concluding at the Stone Fort in Chattanooga, TN on December 5th. Footage by Brandon Ward, edit by Andrew Kornylak and music by Fino Attack - Flame Arrestor myspace.com/finoattack
PROGRESSION - Trailer
Video by BigUP Productions - Behind every breakthrough in the progression of climbing, there's a true story of doubt and determination, perseverance in the face of failure. From boulders, to big walls, to competition podiums, the climbers at the top of the game share a commitment to do whatever it takes to achieve their vision. Featuring Chris Sharma, Tommy Caldwell, Daniel Woods, Adam Ondra, Kevin Jorgeson, Patxi Usobiaga, Johanna Ernst, Alex Honnold, Paul Robinson, Matt Segal, and more, in a film by Josh Lowell, Cooper Roberts, and Brett Lowell.
Gritstone Action at UK's Wimberry Rocks
Videos by Richie Patterson / Wild Country - At the end of September another great gritstone project bit the dust courtesy of Miles Gibson who is one of the UK's strongest underground climbers. Weighing in at E9 7a this route is now one of the hardest routes on grit. Miles’ route, Dangermouse (E9 7a or 5.13b X) tackles the amazing overhanging prow below the classic Sick Bay Shuffle at the intimidating and fortress like bastion of gritstone that is Wimberry Rocks. Miles had been projecting the route over the summer and had to wait until the cool of September before sending the route.
The Good Men Project: Film Trailer
Video by GoodMenProject - What does it mean to be a good man in today's world? Ten men, ten stories. The documentary film, "The Good Men Project: Real Stories From the Front Lines of Modern Manhood" is due to be released on DVD November 15, 2009 and is available at www.goodmenproject.org.
WayPoint Namibia - The Movie A film by Chris Alstrin / alstrinfilms.com and Majka Burhardt / majkaburhardt.com - In May 2009, a small team of rock climbers departed for Namibia with two goals: to find a way up an unexplored face, and to find a way into a deeper understanding of southern Africa. At the heart of their trip lies the question, can adventure and culture combine to create understanding? "WayPoint Namibia"is the story of their journey. With Majka Burhardt, Peter Doucette, and Kate Rutherford, produced by Alstrin Films. Now playing at select film festivals. Learn more at www.waypointnamibia.com
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