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Climbing Videos
Photo: Earl Wiggins on the first ascent of Supercrack, Indian Creek, Utah. Photo by Ed Webster. Please submit work to afox@aimmedia.com.
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 2012 Dark Horse Series Championship Highlights
Video by Louder Than 11 - February 4, 2012, marked the final round of the Dark Horse Series. This competition helped decide the Dark Horse Champion, and Daniel Woods and Francesca Metcalf took down the strong field of challengers for the win. Second and third place went to Angie Payne and Kasia Pietras for the women, and Rob D'Anastasio and Carlo Traversi for the men. For complete results please visit darkhorseseries.com.  19th Annual Hueco Rock Rodeo Promo
Video by Louder Than 11 - Welcome to the Hueco Rock Rodeo! Get ready for a weekend of adventure films, slide shows, new boulder problems and famous classics at our 19th annual competition,with live lusic, a paintball shoot-out, mechanical bull, and clinics! Come claim your prize at the podium and win a raffle that will go to benefit The Access Fund. Powered by ADIDAS Outdoor and hosted by The Hueco Valley Foundation. Proceeds from the competition are donated back to Hueco Tanks State Park's Lone Star Legacy Trust Fund.  A Winter Day at Bowden Doors, Northumberland
Video by Chris Houston - Cold temps, clear skies and no wind... Perfect sending conditions. Problems climbed include Crawlspace, Mind Games, Manta RH, Sprung, Born Lippy, and Dog Eat Dog, also featuring Crux the dog! From ukclimbing.com: "A half-mile or so of superb 7-15m climbs, of all grades, but tending to the technical. The crag is a local summit, rarely wet and quick drying; ideal for year-round exercise. At the northern end, the rock is overhung in the shape of a breaking wave—really rather eerie."  Kate Reese McGinnis: Holding On
Video by Prana - "Climbing and parenting: a balance between hanging on and letting go. Climbing seems simple enough: grip too hard and you'll pump out early. If you don't put enough effort into it, you'll never make it to the end. Kate has spent over a decade fine-tuning that balance between holding on and letting go. Now with the birth of her first child Annie, she finds the same lessons in parenthood: Suddenly you are two people, dependent on each other, but each with a lifetime of dreams and aspirations ahead of them."  Catching up with Phillip Schaal
Video by Louder Than 11 - Catch up with Five Ten athlete Phillip Schaal as he talks about training, climbing, and the future. Problems in the video include Midnight Express (V14), Trainspotting (V12), and Echale (V14). Schaal climbed Midnight Express in December 2011. Other V14 ascents include Ode to the Modern Man (Mt. Evans, Colorado) and Amandla (Rocklands, South Africa). See an interview from 2009 with Schaal here.  Brian Hedrick on The Swarm (V14)
Video by QuetzalClimb Productions - In Brian "Cuz" Hedrick's recent trip to Bishop, he crushed his latest project The Swarm (V14) after completing recent projects Mandala SDS (V13), Maze of Death (V12), and Yabo Roof (V12). "Projecting is a new endeavor for me. I used to focus on things I knew I could do quickly. With this departure, I think I've become a much better climber, and I'm excited to see where I progress to." —Cuz. His current projects are Goldfish (V14) and Dominated (V13).  Alpine Fever, Part One - RMNP
Video by Ivelin Penchev and John Gass - "Alpine Fever" is a climbing movie combining different alpine bouldering areas located in Colorado. Part one begins with some brief bouldering scenes from Rocky Mountain National Park taken during the summer of 2011. There will be couple more parts to follow that will include areas such as Area A and Lincoln Lake, located at Mount Evans. Climbing ranges from V0 to V14.  Adam Ondra Flashes Gecko Assis (V14) - Video #3
Video by Black Diamond - Here is video #3 of the three-part series Alvi Pakarinen edited together of Adam Ondra's trip to Fontainebleau, France. This one captures Adam's flash of Gekko Assis (V14), one of the hardest flashes in history, on his last day in the forest. Adam said about the flash: "First two moves were OK, then it was very hard to move left heel to the left. I was very close to falling, feeling that I was losing balance for a moment, but somehow I stayed on the rock."  Shawn Diamond Climbs Hot Lips (5.12), Malibu Creek State Park
Video by Damon Corso - A short film by DCProductions & PETRALA PRODUCTIONS featuring Damon Corso (photographer) and Shawn Diamond (pro-climber) at Malibu Creek State Park, photographing Shawn soloing the famous Hot Lips (5.12a) for a feature article for Urban Climber magazine. This shows Damon Corso and all his photographic equipment in the field.  Les Drus in Winter with Ueli Steck
Video by Jonathan Griffith - A one-day climb on the north face (Lesueur Route with a direct variation) of the Drus with Ueli Steck, near Chamonix, France. "Pretty cool climbing. Hard for the feet... Looks like really hard climbing." —Ueli Steck  Michele Caminati Climbs Ultimo dei Moicani (V14)
Video by Michele Caminati - Michele Caminati recently completed a project at Amiata in Tuscany, Italy, calling it Ultimo dei Moicani ("Last of the Mohicans") and grading it V14. Planetmountain.com has a nice detailed report in English by Caminati about his experience with this boulder. An excerpt: "Giving the problem a grade is no mean task, especially since the only really difficult move is that long dyno from the pocket to the crimp, where the key to success is pushing off the footholds properly..."  Dave Graham and Memory is Parallax (V14)
Video by Bear Cam Media - Follow Dave Graham and others as they try this crimping masterpiece located just outside RMNP in Colorado. Graham finished the problem in December and named it Memory is Parallax and suggested V14. Graham has opened more than a dozen V14s, and has climbed more than three dozen. What he said about Memory is Parallax: "Amazing climbing with drop knees, smears, and small crimps."  Adam Ondra in Fontainebleau - Video #2
Video by Black Diamond - Here is video #2 of the three-part series Alvi Pakarinen edited together of Adam Ondra's trip to Fontainebleau, France. In #2, Adam boulders with one of the forest's true maestros, Jacky Godoffe. Jacky took Adam on a proper tour of some classics, including La Merveille (V12) and C'etait Demain (V11, the first of its grade in the forest and FA'd by Jacky).  Yosemite HD
Video by Project Yosemite - This video is a collaboration between Sheldon Neill and Colin Delehanty: "This whole project has been an amazing experience. The two of us became friends through Vimeo and explored a shared interest in timelapsing Yosemite National Park over an extended period of time. We'd like to expand this idea to other locations and would appreciate any suggestions for a future project."  Janet Bergman Climbs Discombobulated (5.11), NRG, WV
Video by Pat Goodman - Janet Bergman climbs Discombobulated (5.11) at the Endless Wall at the New River Gorge, West Virginia. From mountainproject.com: "This climb looks like it is just a tall climb from the ground. However, when you get on this bad boy, you quickly find out that there is a heinous crux between the second and third bolt. Fortunately, you have a sweet, no-hands rest (if you can battle away the spiders) in a pod at an obvious spot above the third bolt. Pumpy climbing continues above on underclings with long reaches between sloping edges with bad feet. Finally, keep your head, fight the pump, and work over the last bulge."  Mayan Gobat-Smith on the Salathé Wall (VI 5.13b)
Video by Five Ten - In October 2011, New Zealander Mayan Gobat-Smith freed the Salathé Wall (VI 5.13b) on El Capitan in Yosemite Valley. On her blog, she said, "Free climbing El Capitan has always been a dream of mine," she said on her blog. "Something which I have always aspired to ever since I started climbing. I have always had a fascination for big walls, and loved being in exposed, beautiful places." Read more here.  Wideboyz Interview - Tales from the Wideside
Video by Wild Country - Tom Randall and Pete Whittaker have proved themselves at the highest level with the first ascent of the hardest offwidth crack in the world—Century Crack (5.14b)—but can they make it through a grilling by Wild Country's hardcore interviewer, Richie Patterson? Some great stories about their U.S. trip make this a fascinating insight into the minds of two of the U.K.'s greatest exports!  Adam Ondra in Fontainebleau - Video #1
Video by Black Diamond - Adam Ondra has recently focused his energies to the world of bouldering, and the results have been stunning. This December, fresh off his second ascent of Gioia (V16) in Italy, Adam set off for his first-ever visit to the iconic boulders of Fontainebleau, France. BD sent videographer Alvi Pakarinen down to Font to film Adam during his four-day trip, and he was on the scene for a slew of hard sends by Adam, including his stunning flash of Gekko Assis (8b+), one of the hardest flashes in history, on his last day in the forest.  Bass for Your Face - Failing
Video by Bass for your Face - "Hey guys... 2011 sucked. For everyone. It sucked so much, we made a video about how much it sucked. And about how much we failed. How we failed to send problems. How we failed to take pictures. How we failed to post on this blog. But we hope (not really) that this video makes up for all that failing."  Will Gadd on Roman Candle (M8) in Hyalite Canyon, MT
Video by Black Diamond - Will Gadd, one of the great characters in the sport of climbing, rolled down from his home turf in Canada to have a taste of the mixed climbing action in Montana's Hyalite Canyon. First up on his list was Roman Candle, an overhanging M8 line guarded by a "roman candle" of ice. The ice looked a touch unstable, but, ever game, Gadd dialed in the belay safely out of the way of any possible hazards and then set off on what quickly turned into one hell of a ride. |
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