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Lake Sessions - Bouldering at Devil's Lake, WI
Video by 2nd Go Productions - Early January session at Devil's Lake State Park in Wisconsin, showcasing several problems climbed during the course of the day. Peter Bonamici climbs Big Bud, Axiom of Arete Aesthetics, El Nino, and Sex and Chocolate Direct. More coming soon! Read more about Devil's Lake in our feature, "Lake Effect," here.
Sam Elias on Red Bull and Vodka (M11), Colorado
Video by Cedar Wright - Watch Sam Elias climb Red Bull and Vodka, an impressive mixed climb on Vail Pass that ventures out 120 feet of tiered roof madness! The climb overhangs more than 50 feet, and finishes on the Fang, one of the most iconic ice climbs in the world. Elias fifth at the recent 2012 Ouray Ice Festival, following Nathan Kutcher (1st), Andres Marin (2nd), Simon Duverney (3rd), and Bryan Gilmore (4th).
Enzo Oddo Climbs La Rambla (5.15a) in Spain
Video by Prana Living - Young French climber Enzo Oddo made an ascent of La Rambla (5.15a) in Siurana, Spain, in December. The route was established in 1994 by Alexander Huber at 5.14c, but the original anchors ended below the current finish. In 2003, Ramón Julián Puigblanque made an ascent of the full line, attaching the current grade. The route has seen repeats by climbers like Chris Sharma, Patxi Usobiaga, Adam Ondra, and more. Read more about La Rambla here.
Park Life: Yosemite Bouldering - FULL VIDEO
Video by Louder Than 11 - In the late weeks of November, the Louder Than 11 crew gathered from all corners of the country to experience Yosemite Valley bouldering. As a group of passionate individuals, we enveloped ourselves in the landscape for two weeks, attacking boulders as if tomorrow would never come. On the surface, the very foundation of our identities is built on rock climbing—a sport that we believe is the greatest on the planet—but there is much more to this seemingly inherent addiction than meets the eye.
Shit Climbers Say
Video by Louder Than 11 - The title of the video says it all. Starring Urban Climber's editor in chief, Andrew Tower.
Nacho Sánchez Flashes V13
Video by Boreal - Nacho Sánchez flashes I Shot Sarkonazy assis (V13) in Targassonne, France. Back in March 2011, Sánchez established Spain's first V15 after working the problem for a year and a half. The problem, Entropia, is in Castilla de Bayuela, west of Madrid. Sánchez has also climbed numerous V14s in the area.
Carlo Traversi: Alpine Sessions
Video by Five Ten - Carlo Traversi reflects on a few of his notable projects and ascents from last season. Problems featured include
Top Notch (V13), RMNP;
Memoirs Of The Invisible Climber (V12), RMNP;
The Nothing V8, Mount Evans;
Nuthin' But Sunshine (V13), RMNP; and Both Sides Of The Spectrum (V12), RMNP.
Justin Wood Boulders in Font
Video by Black Diamond - Justin Wood has taken numerous trips to the famed blocs of Fontainebleau, and each time he returns more and more inspired by the forest's near limitless bouldering. Here's a quick video of Wood from his most recent trip, pulling down a couple of classic-looking V10s. Watch out for those sloper mantles!
Potter's Point Bouldering
Video by Damon Corso - A gorgeous day bouldering at Potter's Point high above Santa Barbara, California. Featuring Norman Montes and his student Sammy on some instant classics; Norman on Premature Egg Baby (V7, first ascent), Sammy on A Work in Progress Sit (V4, possible first ascent), and Norman on Leviathan Hunting (V7, first ascent).
Emily Harrington Climbs Ice at Ouray
Video by The North Face - Emily Harrington shares her new experiences with ice climbing and the trust needed to successfully send an ice climb. Climber Sam Elias also provides insight and mentorship on this highly technical climbing style. Harrington won first place at last weekend's 17th annual Ouray Ice Festival in Colorado, followed by Dawn Glanc (who won in 2011). Nathan Kutcher and Andres Marin took first and second for the men.
Park Life: Yosemite Bouldering - Official Trailer
Video by Louder Than 11 - A new feature video from LT11. A group of climbers took a two-week bouldering trip to Yosemite National Park to climb some of the best granite in the world. Twenty-eight boulder problems are featured, climbed by Natasha Barnes,
Rich Crowder,
Sarah Fullerton,
Jon Glassberg,
Jordan Shipman,
Ryan Silven,
Ben Vernon,
Anson Whitmer,
Dave Wetmore, and
Max Zolotukhin. Stay tuned for the full-length film, available January 16.
WHY - with Corey Rich
Video by Corey Rich - An interesting look into why "extreme" athletes are so deeply connected to their respective sports, with kayaker Dane Jackson, mountain biker Rebecca Rusch, and climber Alex Honnold. A must-see video. In the climbing segments, Honnold solos Equinox (5.12c/d) in Joshua Tree National Park, California. This is likely his third hardest solo, the others being Heaven (5.12d) and Cosmic Debris (5.13a) in Yosemite.
Rumble in the Jungle: Parts 1 & 2
Video by Cedar Wright - "After a whirlwind three-day travel sequence, Lucho and I found ourselves on Tioman Island, Malaysia, staring up at the mythical 'Dragon's Horns.' It was hard to believe that only one of the huge jungle spires had been climbed... until we started the approach... and then it made more sense. But after some epic jungle bushwhacking which culminated with me being attacked by giant hummingbird-sized wasps, we managed to summit the unclimbed Dragon's Horn on our first full day on the island. We topped out at night and endured a shiver bivy until about 2 a.m. when an an impending lightning storm encouraged us to rappel at night."
Committed: The Nose on El Cap
Video by Mark and Janelle Smiley - "Nearly 3,000 vertical feet of pure awesomeness. The Nose was the original line up El Cap. It is said to be the best rock climb in the world, and after completing it we would have to agree... After a summer of light and fast climbing, we were in for a healthy dose of slow and heavy climbing, or should I say, manual labor. Hauling is just tough work."
Read the trip report at smileysproject.com. This marks the Smiley's 35th classic climb completed.
JP Ouellet on No Way Jose (5.13)
Video by Black Diamond/James Q Martin - J.P. "Peewee" Oullete is always on the hunt for hard crack lines and set his sights on repeating the notoriously hard No Way Jose (5.13, North Wash, Utah). As with most significant ascents, this one is not without a great backstory, as Peewee battles illness and airline tickets in order to get the redpoint.
Alex Puccio on Jack's Broken Heart (V12)
Video by Alex Puccio - In May 2011, Alex Puccio climbed Jack's Broken Heart (V12) in Magic Wood, Switzerland. On her 8a.nu scorecard, she commented, "AMAZING!!! Scary first move and a bit of a scary top. Perfect boulder! Did it in a few tries." Jack's Broken Heart marked her 10th of the grade; other V12s include The Centaur (Rocky Mountain National Park), Diaphanous Sea and Tequila Sunrise (Hueco Tanks), and Clear Blue Skies (Mt. Evans).
Kasia Pietras and Jimmy Webb on V11, V13
Video by Brandon Shepherd - Here, Kasia Pietras and Jimmy Webb climb Gross's Roof (V11) and Gross's Roof Sit (V13) in Cumberland, Tennessee. According to Webb's blog, Pietras sent Gross's Roof fairly quickly.This was Pietras' second V11 after she climbed Sunshine at Hueco Tanks, Texas. She also ticked Loaded with Power (V10), Bush League (V9), Glass Roof (V9), and at least seven other V8s and V9s.
Barbara Zangerl Climbs Hotel Supramonte (5.13d, 400m)
Video by planetmountain.com - Barbara Zangerl climbs Hotel Supramonte (5.13d, 400 meters, 10 pitches) on the Italian island of Sardinia. The easiest pitch of the route is 5.12c. Rolando Larcher bolted and climbed the route in 1998; Pietro Dal Pra made the first free ascent in 2000. Adam Onda onsighted the route in 2008.
Ondra on Big Paw and From Dirt (V15s)
Video by BERNARTWOOD - Adam Ondra climbed his first two V15 boulders in November 2010 in Ticino, Switzerland: Big Paw and From Dirt Grows the Flowers. These two boulders did not find their place in the final movie about Adam Ondra. Ondra recently climbed two V16s, Gioia and Terranova. Read his interview about Gioia here.
Nalle Takes Down Three V13s in Hueco Tanks
Video by ZeroSkillz - Nalle Hukkataival continues his tear through Hueco Tanks, Texas. Here, he climbs Terre de Sienne (V13), A Tale of Two Gabors (V13), and Diabolique (V13) on North Mountain. Hukkataival commented that Terre de Sienne felt harder than Esperanza, a V14 also on North Mountain. He also thought that A Tale of Two Gabors had "quite possibly the most complicated sequence I've ever done."
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