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 Edu Marín - Atomic Playboy Extension, (8b) FontainebleauVideo by Marc Recasens / Block Digital - Watch Spanish superstar Edu Marín sending the Atomic Playboy Extension, (8B or V13) which he fired off in eight attempts at Fontainebleau, France. After Font he headed to the granite of Targasonne, France, where Marín sent his first 7C onsight, Black Bloc. The Spaniard is usally making headlines for his redponts. A post on 8a.nu 3/21/09 reports that Marín has done Seleccion Natural Extension, (9a) in Santa Linya.  Expedition Antarctica – Rock Climbing in the Perpetual Ice
Video production by Planet-Talk.de and camera by Max Reichel / Timeline-Production.de - During a six-week trip to Queen Maud Land in Antarctica, Bavarian brothers Alex and Thomas Huber, along with Stephan Siegrist from Switzerland, climbed new routes on two enormous, otherworldy rock towers thrusting from the ice cap. The trio made the first ascent of the 2,500-foot west face of Holtanna, the north buttress of Holtanna, and the west buttress of Ulvetanna.  Erik Weihenmayer and Chad Jukes on Bridal Veil Falls, near Telluride, Colorado
Video by David D'Angelo / TrustforPublicLand - On February 12, 2009, blind climber Erik Weihenmayer scaled frozen Bridal Veil Falls near Telluride, Colorado, which Trust for Public Land (TPL) recently helped to reopen for climbing. Also on the climb was Chad Jukes, and Iraq war veteran who lost a leg to an explosive device. It was the blind athlete's second climb celebrating TPL's efforts to protect recreational access in Colorado and nationwide. For more information visit: tpl.org. Read more about this ascent in a story by Craig Stein.  Petrohradské PADani - An Open Air Bouldering ContestVideo by Morchella Productions - A documentary of the 5th annual (2007) "Petrohradske PADani" — an outdoor boulder competition in the Czech Republic attended by climbers from all over Europe. The number of professional participants has increased every year which proves that the bouldering is truly world-class with almost 3000 problems at a variety of grades. This video captures the event experience with interviews from participants and organizers and also shows off some of the fantastic climbing. Watch higher quality. Petrohradské PADani - An Open Air Bouldering Contest - High QualityVideo by Morchella Productions - A documentary of the 5th annual (2007) "Petrohradske PADani" — an outdoor boulder competition in the Czech Republic attended by climbers from all over Europe. The number of professional participants has increased every year which proves that the bouldering is truly world-class with almost 3000 problems at a variety of grades. This video captures the event experience with interviews from participants and organizers and also shows off some of the fantastic climbing. Watch standard quality.  THE ASGARD PROJECT: STAGE ONE TRAINING IN RIGLOSVideo by Alastair Lee / posingproductions.com - Watch Leo Houlding and Carlos Suarez simul-climb and BASE jump Zulu Demente on La Vizera and Carnivalada on El Pizon in 2 hours 37 minutes (bar to bar) on the conglomerate towers of Riglos, Spain. They set themselves the objective of climbing and BASE jumping two 300 meter towers in just two hours but deteriorating conditions put a cap on the two hour target. The 2009 Asgard Project is an expedition to make the first free ascent of Mount Asgard’s NW face on Baffin Island, Auyuittuq National Park, Canada. Visit: posingproductions.com for more  Toni Lamprecht on the first ascent of Bokassa's Fridge - Assassin, Monkey and Man (8c+ or V16)37-year-old Toni Lamprecht of Munich, Germany, has climbed a new limestone boulder problem at the cliff Altantiswand in Kochel, Germany, that he has graded 8C+, or roughly V16. At about 25 moves in length the link-up of Bokassa's Fridge and Assassin, Monkey and Man is more of a route than a boulder problem and if the grade is confirmed this will rank among the hardest problems in the world. Read more.  MASTERS OF STONE VI "BREAKTHROUGH" - TrailerVideo by Eric Perlman / MastersofStone.com - Faster, Harder, Bolder, Newer, Creative and Damage Control... these are the six points of breakthrough in Masters of Stone VI. Speed Record on El Captain, High-Ball Bouldering, First Ascents, Speed Free Solo Racing, World’s Highest Slackline, Wingsuit in Norway, Parkour on Rock, and much more! Includes special bonus second feature: 20 YEARS ON THE STONE Plus an eye-opening session with Timmy O’Neill.  Vertical Carnival Dispatches - #10 - A New Line
Video by RockMonkeyArt.com and SenderFilms.com - Join Cedar Wright, Sean Leary, Renan Ozturk, Jeremy Collins, Peter Mortimer, Bean Bowers and Tim Kemple in Patagonia as they battle from Plan A all the way to Plan G in a an attempt to bag a new route on Mochito, a 900 foot massif that sits below Cerro Torre. Visit VerticalCarnival.blogspot.com for more.  Catching Reality: Climbing movie to premiere online
The climbing movie Catching Reality will premiere on March 13th, 2009 exclusively at www.catchingreality.com. Catching Reality is 17 minutes long and stars Said Belhaj on a roadtrip around Morocco. The movie is a portrait of Said Belhaj and his two passions: climbing and gnawa music. The movie is unique since it premieres on the Internet which allows it to reach viewers around the world.  Stone Alliance Tour - TrailerTrailer by BSProductions.us, MastersOfStone.com and MomentumVM.com - Three internationally celebrated climbing filmmakers — Eric Perlman, Brian Solano and Mike Call — have joined forces to bring you some of the best climbing action from all over the globe. Strap in for an edge-of-your-seat show featuring the top climbers, best crags and coolest action, and get your fingers itching to get out there and grab some stone. Featuring segments from Masters of Stone 6, The Players, and Herakleia! 1.5 hours of cutting edge climbing action. Visit www.StoneAllianceTour.com for more info.  Luxury Liner - The First Ascent of SupercrackVideo by Chris Alstrin - In 1976, Indian Creek was a little-known, dried-up, ancient riverbed in southeastern Utah. But in that year the impossible became the possible: Earl Wiggins climbed Supercrack, a 300-foot vertical sandstone fracture from the ground up. Luxury Liner is the story of a bold man behind an unthinkable idea. It pairs historical footage of the first ascent of Supercrack with recent interviews that reminisce on an earlier time, when climbing necessitated fearlessness, confidence, finesse and humility. For more info visit www.alstrinfilms.com  The Heart of Steel Bouldering Competition
Videos by Taylor De Lench - Saturday, January 24th 2009, a hundred athletes faced off in the ultimate bouldering competition. After eight hours, three male, and three female climbers were left, gazing at a wall with holds and taped up money....lot's of money. Check out this crazy event featuring, Dave Wetmore, Jon Glassberg, Marah Bragdon, Olivia and Francesca Metcalf, and Vasya Vorotnikov.  The Nose Goes Quicker - Part 4Video by Eric Perlman / MastersofStone.com - EXCERPT FROM MASTERS OF STONE 6 COMING SPRING 2009 - Despite the intensity of gunning for the speed record, Hans throws a barrel roll as he launches into the King Swing...supposedly to clear a twisted line, but, in fact, just for the fun of it. These guys are relaxed, pausing to ask permission and chat with other teams as they gently pass by.Watch Part 1, Watch Part 2, Watch Part 3  Pure - TrailerVideo by Chuck Fryberger / chuckfryberger.com - From the producer of Dosage V - Alpine Blocs comes a 35mm bouldering flick about bouldering on planet Earth: PURE. Pure is about 19 extraordinary climbers in six countries on three continents , with no ropes. Featured Climbers: Nalle Hukkataival, Kevin Jorgeson, Kilian Fischhuber, Anna Stoehr, Fred Nicole, Cody Roth and more. Areas Featured: Rocklands, South Africa; Sonoma County, California; Fountainebleau, France; Innsbruck, Austria plus Colorado, Arco, Italy; La Vallei, Magic Wood and Brione Switzerland. Distributed exclusively through Vista Cerro: vistacerro.com  Dave MacLeod on The Walk of Life
Video by RareBreedProductions - Scotland’s Dave MacLeod has made the second ascent of The Walk of Life, a 50-meter steep slab on England’s North Devon coast that was given the unprecedented grade of E12 7a when James Pearson made the first ascent last year.  Extended Painted Blue Trailer - Part 2
A film by Robert Rogoz / VideoPhotoProductions.com - Painted Blue was shot in the Canadian Rockies over the last two and a half years. The locations include: Yamnuska, Grassi Lakes, Killer Cave, Whiteman Falls, Redman, and Curtain Call. This documentary also includes original footage from the first winter ascent of the Greenwood-Jones on Mt. Temple and numerous still shots from ascents in the Rockies, Alaska and Pakistan. Watch Part 1  Extended Painted Blue Trailer - Part 1
A film by Robert Rogoz / VideoPhotoProductions.com - Follow Canadian ice/mixed climbing master Raphael Slawinski on some exploits in the Canadian Rockies with footage shot on Yamnuska, Grassi Lakes and around Killer Cave. There are also some short film sections from the first winter ascent of Mt Temple last winter and still photos from a first ascent on Mt. Chephren. Watch Part 2.  The Dirtbag Diaries - The Shortz - The Peach
By Fitz Cahall / dirtbagdiaries.com - Taco Bell. Pizza Hut. Climber and writer, Kelly Cordes had one hell of resume by the time he applied for a position baking bread. The work was simple, came with food and the early starts would teach Cordes to like the dreaded 3 a.m. starts demanded of cutting edge alpinism. Check out The Alpine Briefs, an international newsletter from the American Alpine Journal, mentioned in this episode of The Dirtbag Diaries.  The Nose Goes Quicker - Part 3Video by Eric Perlman / MastersofStone.com - EXCERPT FROM MASTERS OF STONE 6 COMING SPRING 2009 - Yuji holds full body weight with one hand on a funky wire nut, 60+ feet above his last pro. If the nut fails, Yuji decks onto the top of Texas Flake. Yuji then frees Boot Flake at very high speed, stopping to place one piece only. Watch Part 1, Watch Part 2, Watch Part 4 |
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