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 The Beta: Brutus at Hound Ears, NC
Video by Andrew Kornylak / www.akornphoto.com - Ashley Dorough of Chapel Hill, North Carolina climbs Brutus (V2) at Hound Ears - the site of the first Triple Crown Bouldering Series competition near Boone, North Carolina. The 2009 Triple Crown Bouldering Series is the biggest, most bodacious outdoor boulder series and it's back again - for the 7th time - beginning with Hound Ears in Boone, NC on October 3rd, followed by Horse Pens-40 in Steele, AL on November 7th, and concluding at the Stone Fort in Chattanooga, TN on December 5th.  The Climbing Works International Festival - Sheffield, England
By Brian McAlinden / www.climbingworks.com - These videos showcase The Climbing Works International Festival (CWIF) held this past March 2009: An annual event attracting the best boulderers from the U.K and Europe. Also included is a video by Niall Grimes, who gave a lecture to entertain the crowd during the CWIF. This years event was won by Jerome Meyer of France who beat out over 150 competitors. Click here to see the full results.  Bouldering Session at Medonnet, France
Video by Sébastien Montaz-Rosset - The gneiss bouldering of Médonnet, nestled within in a beautiful mountain forest, is perfect for the warm days of summer and is said to have a Fontainebleau-esque feel with many flat landings. The blocs are situated 25-30 minutes driving from Chamonix toward the ski resort of Megève. The area offers three main sectors with several hundred problems from french boulder grade 2-8a. The variety of climbs shown on this video feature some of the best problems at the area and are all graded somewhere between french 6C to 7A+.  Gorgeous French Limestone at the Gorges du Loup's Deverse Sector
Videos by PhilippeGatta.fr - Deverse, also called Pupuce Surplomb is the hardest cliff, in term of difficulty, in France's Gorges du Loup. The first free climbing route was Déversé Satanique, open by Bernard Duterte in the mid 1980’s. Now graded 8a+ (which may be a tad soft) it remains a fantastic climb. Shown here is Philippe Gatta on Qoussaï and on Déversé Satanique, both 8a+ or 5.13c, plus his wife Anna Gatta on Mekanik Destruktive Komando (7c or 5.12d) all at the Deverse Sector in the Gorges du Loup, France.  The FFA of Cerro Capicua, Valle Cochamo, Chile
By Jvan Tresch courtesy of Arc'teryx and video by Michi Tresch - In January 2009, Tom Holzhauser, Dominik Angehrn and brothers Michi and Jvan Tresch traveled to Valle Cochamó, Chile, for two months of big wall climbing on beautiful granite. They arrived without any specific plans — only an article from the web and a few photos that inspired them and hoped to make a nice first ascent.  The Beta - Six Feet Under and Instinct at the Stone Fort, TN
Video by Andrew Kornylak / www.akornphoto.com - FiveTen climber Brion Voges of Chattanooga, Tennessee drops the beta on Six Feet Under (V5), and Instinct (V7), two classic lines at The Stone Fort — the last leg of the Triple Crown Bouldering Series. The 2009 Triple Crown Bouldering Series is the biggest, most bodacious outdoor boulder series and it's back again - for the 7th time - beginning with Hound Ears in Boone, NC on October 3rd, followed by Horse Pens-40 in Steele, AL on November 7th, and concluding at the Stone Fort in Chattanooga, TN on December 5th.  2009 Squamish Mountain Festival - Highlights Video
Video by ARC'TERYX - The 3rd annual Squamish Mountain Festival, (SQUMF) held at British Columbia's granite mecca on August 12-16, 2009, was a huge success again this year attracting climbers from all over the world. The vision of the SQUMF is to provide a grass-roots gathering to celebrate the magic of Squamish climbing, bouldering and mountain culture. Focusing mainly on climbing and its surrounding culture the event also encompasses complementary activities such as yoga, a themed party and its first ever trail run. For more information visit: squamishmountainfest.com  2009 REEL ROCK Film Tour - Trailer
REEL ROCK 2009 features the world premiere of Progression — the latest release from the award-winning filmmakers at Big UP Productions and the brand new series First Ascent, co-produced by Sender Films and Nat Geo Adventure Channel, plus gear giveaways, appearances by top climbers, and fundraising for local and national non-profit organizations. To check out the tour schedule go to: ReelRockTour.com.  Dean Potter Interview at the Film Festival in St. Anton, Austria
Video by FILMFEST ST. ANTON - Dean Potter was a guest at the 15th Mountain Film Festival in St. Anton, Arlberg, Austria on August 25-29, 2009. In this 8:33 minute video he talks about his childhood dreams of flying, wingsuit piloting, free soling, BASE jumping and his most recent film project THE AERIALIST by Brad Lynch that was shown during the festival. Also check out interviews with Beat Kammerlander and Bernd Zangerl who were also in attendence at the Filmfest.  Verlorenes Land at Sächsische Schweiz, Elbsandstein, Germany
Video by Andreas Proft - Watch 25-year-old Insa Vogel redpointing Verlorenes Land (Xa/RPXb or 5.12c/5.13a without resting on the bolts) at the ultra-traditional Elbsandstein sandstone tower mecca east of Dresden, Germany. Verlorenes Land has 3 bolts and two slings in 80 feet of climbing. To help preserve the soft sandstone here the standard rack consists of knots that are wedged like nuts and slung through threads in the various cracks and formations. Elbsandstein is truly the "tradest" of traditional areas with the most strict climbing ethic of anywhere in the world.  The Continuum Project - Free Climbing in Zion
Video by Chris Alstrin / AlstrinFilms.com - If you feel like the Indian Creek scene is beatin' you down with too many people maybe it's time to head on down to the big walls of Zion National Park, Utah. Follow Mike Anderson and Rob Pizem on one of their many first free ascents on the red Navajo sandstone of Zion. Footage from the new film The Continuum Project by Chris Alstrin to be released Fall 2009.  The Beta: Controller and They Call Me Nobody, Hound Ears, NC
Video by Andrew Kornylak - The Beta is a series of bouldering interviews/how-tos, each from an area featured in the Triple Crown Bouldering Series in the Southeastern US - the largest outdoor bouldering competition in the world! In this episode: Paul Fuelling of Boone, North Carolina sprays you down on Controller and They Call Me Nobody, two classic problems at Hound Ears, near Boone — the first leg of the Triple Crown Bouldering Series - Brought to you by Marmot!  5.12+ FFA on Central Howser Tower, Bugaboos, Canada
Video by Jason Kruk / JasonKruk.net - The Canadian-American trio of Jason Kruk, Will Stanhope, and Matt Segal have completed the first free ascent of the west face of Howser Spire’s Central Tower in the Bugaboos at 5.12+. Tucked between the well-known South Tower (see 50 Classic Climbs) and the El Capitan–sized North Tower, the smaller Central Tower was only climbed by the west face for the first time in 1999, when two separate lines went up.  Toni Lamprecht on Beat It (8c+), Kochel, Germany
Video by Toni Lamprecht - Toni Lamprecht has slain another testpiece at his local stomping ground Kochel in Southern Germany that he’s named Beat it (8c+/5.14c). he 38-year-old German, who's made a number of hard first ascents at Kochel over the years, says that 15 years ago he placed a few bolts in the steep upper part of the wall and then forgot about the beautiful line because it seemed too futuristic.  Hard Indoor Crack Climb in Texas
Video by Jen Friedberg / jfriedberg2007 - After months of effort Texas climber Ian Watson has made the coveted second top rope ascent of one of the Southwest's most challenging indoor cracks at Summit Climbing Gym (www.summitrockgym.com) in Grapevine, Texas. Waiting for a Friend (5.13a) was climbed in March of 2002 by Marcus Garcia of the Dallas/Ft. Worth area.  "Tough Enough" Madagascar Trailer - Extreme African Bigwall
Video by Laurent Triay / triaylaurent.com -In June 2008, French climbers Arnaud Petit, Stéphanie Bodet, Sylvain Millet and Laurent Triay made the first free ascent of Tough Enough (8b+ or 5.14a) 380m on the Karambony formation, at the Tsaranoro Massif in Madagascar. The route had seen activity and first free attempts from a number of other climbing teams since the routes first ascent by a German team in 2005. The 10 pitch route is characterized by extremely thin face climbing, sparse protection bolts, with five pitches rated 8b or harder (and the easiest pitch being 7b+ or 5.12c).  Alaska - Unscripted - From The Alpine Briefs
In celebration of the recent Alaska mountaineering season, The Alpine Briefs presents several videos of climbing and other antics in the 49th state. Shown here are Brits Jon Bracey and Matt Helliker as they bag two new routes above the Ruth Gorge, William Finley pointing out the landmarks and Polish climbers Marek Klonowski and Tomek Mackiewicz as they traverse Mt. Logan. The Alpine Briefs is an international newsletter from the American Alpine Journal  HUSBAND OF ALZHEIMER'S PATIENT ATTEMPTS TO BECOME OLDEST TO SOLO CLIMB EL CAPITAN
In honor of his wife, Gay, Mike Kozusko (58) an amateur climber and climbing instructor ventures to do what no one else his age has done, solo El Capitan via the Zodiac (A2 5.7) in California's Yosemite National Park. Filmmakers Dave and Mary Davis of IS Film Video will follow Mike up the mountain this Fall to document his final attempt at El Cap. For more information visit: www.isfilmvideo.com  2009 Lead Climbing World Cup in Chamonix, France
Video by Marc Recasens / www.blockdigital.com - The International Federation of Sport Climbing (IFSC) Climbing World Cup for Lead and Speed Climbing was celebrated in front of 10,000 spectators in Chamonix, France on July, 11-13, 2009. The Spaniard Patxi Usobiaga won the mens competition and Austrian Johanna Ernst took the gold for the women. The speed gold medals went to Edyta Ropek from Poland and Evgeny Vaytsekhovsky of Russia.  Dave "Buzz" Buzzelli on Double Down (V13)
Video by Paul Jung / bassforyourface.com - Dave “Buzz” Buzzelli makes a send of Double Down (V13), at the Reservoir Rocks boulders in Great Barrington, Massachusetts. The smallish New England area is home to about 250 Gneiss problems that are all super high quality with new development occurring at other spots nearby. Visit: westernmacc.com for information about the area. |
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