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 Boulder World Cup Report 2011: Barcelona
Video by Udo Neumann - The heat of Barcelona seems to have shuffled the cards of the 2011 Boulder World Cup, as the favorites Kilian Fischhuber and Anna Stöhr (AUT) did not make it to the podium in the competition set by Reini Fichtinger. In the women's field, Akiyo Noguchi was the only one to complete all four problems, while the second ranked Alex Puccio just sent 2, although being very close the the top of the second boulder. Third the French Melissa Le Neve, with 2 tops in Finals and one top less than Puccio in the Semis. Guillaume Glairon Mondet seized his victory and the gold medal by flashing the fourth problem. Behind him, two Russians, Rustam Gelmanov and Dmitry Sharafutdinov, the only one to make it on problem number four together with the French winner.  Boulder World Cup 2011 Report: Eindhoven
Video by Udo Neumann - It's Kilian and Akiyo, once again. At the new outdoor venue—in the square designed by Massimiliano Fuksass—Kilian Fischhuber (AUT) beat Daniel Woods (USA) by 2 attempts to send all boulders in the final round, while the French François Kaiser steps in third place with 3 problems completed. In the women's field, Akiyo Noguchi, from Japan, claims back the first place by sending the four final boulders by the routesetter Jamie Cassidy in 6 attempts, against Anna Stöhr's 8 attempts. Melissa Le Neve (FRA) got the bronze medal with 3 tops out of 4.  Boulder World Cup 2011 Report: Canmore
Video by Udo Neumann - The Japanese Tsukuru Hori and Akiyo Noguchi conquered the gold medals in the male and female categories, respectively with 2 and 4 problems completed in the finals. In the men's category, the Slovenian Klemen Becan continued his lucky series with the second place, while one boulder topped meant the third place for the home athlete Sean McColl. The Austrian Anna Stöhr ranked second behind Noguchi, both topped all 4 boulders but Anna took 1 more attempt. Jain Kim of Korea took bronze, with 3 tops.  The Eastern Mountain Sports Pro rocks Central Park, NY
Video by NE2C - The Unified Bouldering Championships Pro Tour brought the first-ever pro climbing competition to New York's Central Park with the Eastern Mountain Sports Pro on Saturday, June 25th, 2011. Thousands of New Yorkers gathered to witness an amazing display of athleticism and drama from the world's best climbers. The crowd collectively held their breath, gasped, screamed and fist pumped the competitors on to their absolute limits. Feeding off the crowd's infectious energy, Vasya Vorotnikov and Angie Payne turned in inspired performances and snagged men's and women's first place victories.  Adam Ondra repeating Chilam Balam (5.15b) and making the FA of La Planta de Shiva (5.15b)
Video by Black Diamond - Adam Ondra went on something of a tear the first four months of 2011—in case you were living in a dumpster and didn't hear the news. 5.14c onsights, 5.15b redpoints—sometimes both in the same day. After his northern Spain rampage, he headed down to southern Spain with his father to have a go at Chilam Balam, a wildly overhanging, 80-plus meter long, traversing route that was famously graded 9b+ by its first ascentionist, Bernabe Fernandez. It had never seen a repeat—until Adam showed up and dispatched the stunning line in a handful of tries (check out the rowdy runouts when he starts skipping clips!).  Jonathan Siegrist on Necessary Evil
Video by Andrew Mann via Maxim Dynamic Ropes - Watch as Jonathan Siegrist climbs Chris Sharma's line Necessary Evil (5.14c) among other impressive routes at the Virgin River Gorge, Utah. Also included: a few lines in Red Rocks, Nevada, an interview with Siegrist about his move to Vegas, and his thoughts about the climbing in the VRG.  Keller Rinaudo Climbs Trebuchet (5.14b), NRG
Video by Keller Rinaudo - "I went from the Red to the New a couple weeks ago and fell in love with the place. I just made this video of Trebuchet (5.14b), which is tied with Still Life as the most difficult line in the New. Trebuchet was put up by Mikey Williams about a year and a half ago." Watch Rinaudo crank up and over the roof on this impressive line in the New River Gorge, West Virginia.  The Moonflower Trailer - Mt. Hunter, Alaska
Video by Posing Productions - Trailer for a new mountaineering film out this autumn (2011), "The Moonflower," featuring British alpinists Matt Helliker and Jon Bracey on their first ascent on the hallowed Moonflower Buttress, Mt. Hunter, Alaska. Their new line, The Cartwright Connection, climbs steep, technical mixed ground just left of the Biblier-Klewin (aka Moonflower Buttress). Read more about the ascent here.  Marmot Rocks North Wales
Video by Marmot - The classic routes and mountains of North Wales were in the focus of the 2011 Marmot PRO climbers event. Thirteen of Marmot's top European climbers came together for four days of physical and mental punishment whilst attempting some of North Wales hardest sport and trad climbing routes. Featuring a historic on-sight of Strawberries (E7) by Jorg Verhoeven and the first ascent of all pitches in a day of The Quarryman (E8) by Steve McClure.  El Poussah proves one tough overhang
Video by GrimpAddict - Located in Seine et Marne, France, Franchard Isatis houses many bouldering gems; one in particular is El Poussah. This video highlights the teeth-clenching annoyance of a problem that one just can't get, but can't even begin to think about giving up on.  Tobias Haller Dominates Riverbed
Video by Tobias Haller - Tobias Haller dominates the Riverbed, after it almost dominates him twice on the 25th hold. This V13 problem is located in Switzerland. Having been thrown off it the year before, without another chance to tackle it since, Haller was psyched about gaining revenge on this Swiss classic.  Bouldering in Castillo de Bayuela
Video by javipec - This is Castillo de Bayuela, located between Toledo City and Madrid, where bouldering problems exist in the V11 and up range. Featuring problems such as Baba O’Riley, Terror De Las Poleas, Psuedololo, Pais De Las Salaman and El Mirador, you’ll never get bored with this bouldering arena.  Shauna Coxsey on Pilgrim (V12)
Video by Shauna Coxsey - Brit Shauna Coxsey has climbed Pilgrim (V12) in Parisella's Cave, Llandudno, North Wales. This climbs starts on Left Wall Traverse (V8) and traverses into Cave Life (V9), then goes into Rock Atrocity (V9). This is also the start to the V14 Pilgrimage. The 18-year-old has previously climbed up to V10 (Lou Ferrino, also in Parisella's Cave). Visit ukclimbing.com for an interview.  At Home on the Road: Joe's Valley, Utah
Video by John Gass - Leaving Colorado's inclement weather earlier this year, John Gass, Tom Camillieri, and Ivo Penchev headed to Joe's Valley, Utah, with hopes of better conditions. Unfortunately, the snow followed them to Utah, but they were still able to climb hard. Problems include Nerve Extension (V9), Trent's Mom (V10), Eden (V10), Save Yourself (V7), Battletoads (V10), and Nerve Damage (V7).  Life on Hold Trailer
Video by Outcrop Films - Follow Britain's top climbers and visiting WADs, as they tackle some of the hardest problems around. From the tough, mentally challenging highballs on the gritstone edges, to the short, powerful, esoteric testpieces of the limestone and everything in between. We've filmed the new emerging scene of strong boulders' and their tour around Britain's finest. Featuring: Ned Feehally, Dan Varian, David Mason, Jon Partridge, Michele Caminati, Ryan Pasquill, Micky Page, Miles Gibson and Ben Thompson. With appearances from: Klemen Becan, Nalle Hukkataival, Jernej Kruder and Will Abbott  2011 UBC - Eastern Mountain Sports Pro Trailer
Video by NE2C Productions - The UBC PRO TOUR HITS THE BIG APPLE! Climbing, Urban Climber, and Backpacker (Active Interest Media Outdoor Group), The New York City Department of Parks & Recreation, and the Unified Bouldering Championships are proud to announce the second stop of the 2011 UBC Pro Tour, the Eastern Mountain Sports Pro, to be held in New York City from June 23 to 25. The Eastern Mountain Sports Pro will feature the world’s best pro climbers competing on the world’s biggest stage right in the heart of NYC. The EMS Pro Finals will be hosted in Central Park at the seventh annual Adventures NYC presented by The North Face® on June 25. Read more here.  Navajolands - A Week on the Rez
Video by Andrew Burr - In early April, I spent a week down on the Navajo Reservation spanning the border of New Mexico and Arizona. We (myself and a couple of friends from Colorado) climbed 6 towers in 7 days. This trip was all about the unknown. Before hand, we weren't really sure what was going to happen and actually being able to climb wasn't even a given. However, we did know that whatever happened, it was going to be an adventure and so the trip was dubbed Operation F*ck Ya (OFY). The weeks' worth of climbing flew by with lots of wind, sand, and even sandy wind. We met some wonderful local Dineh climbers who brought us into their homes and helped secure permission for these sacred summits.  Vail Bouldering World Cup 2011 - Men's Finals
Video by Louder Than 11 - Kilian Fischhuber easily won the Bouldering World Cup at the 2011 Teva Mountain Games in Vail, Colorado. (He flashed every problem.) Dmitry Sharafutdinov from Russia won a silver medal, followed by Germany's Jonas Baumann with the bronze. Japan's Rei Sugimoto, who led the men going into the finals, finished fourth. French climber Guillaume Glairon Mondet and Australian Chris Webb-Parsons didn't top any boulders, taking fifth and sixth, respectively. Surprisingly, Daniel Woods, who won last year's comp, didn't make it to finals. Read the full report here.  Vail Bouldering World Cup 2011 - Women's Finals
Video by Louder Than 11 - No Americans stood atop the podium this year at the Vail Bouldering World Cup at the Teva Mountain Games, but it was still an exciting event. Austrians Anna Stöhr and Kilian Fischhuber killed it: with Stöhr's three flashes and Fischhuber's four, they easily took gold in the end. Alex Puccio was second, followed by France's Melissa Le Neve. Read the full report here.  Three-Month Road Trip
Video by Thomas Camillieri - Join a group of friends as they take a three-month tour of some of the country's best bouldering destinations. Part one: Yosemite. Part two: The Ozarks. Part three: Hueco. Along the way they send long-term projects, aquire new ones, and climb classic problems at each area. |
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