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 Endo Valley
Video by Jon Glassberg - Endo Valley is a newly rediscovered area in Rocky Mountain National Park, Colorado. It is a small bouldering area with a large section of hard rock climbs. John Glassberg climbing Cambrian Explosion (V10), Extra Alienated (V9), and Dave's Arete (V10). Jonny Hork making the first ascent of Merkin (V9) and climbing Chewbacca (V11). Carlo Traversi flashing The Portal Sit (V10) and making the first ascent of Flux For Life (V13).  Enzo Oddo on Aubade Direct (5.14d/15a)
Video by Fred Ripert - Sixteen-year-old Enzo Oddo repeating Aubade Direct (5.14d/15a) at Sainte Victoire in France. Fellow French climber Gérôme Pouvreau made the first ascent in September 2010. The line was bolted by Christophe da Conceicao—the classic version trends right and goes at 5.14c, but the direct version (40 feet of bouldery and technical moves) had yet to be climbed until Pouvreau's ascent. On his website (in French), Oddo calls Aubade Direct "a step up from all 9a's I've done in this style."  Anthony Gullsten in Fontainebleau
Video by Alvi Pakarinen - Finnish climber Anthony Gullsten bouldering in Fontainebleau, France. The 19-year-old has made ascents up to V14, including The Never Ending Story in Magic Wood, Switzerland. Problems in the video include Angle Parfait (V8), Sale Gosse (V10), Mongolito (V10), La Puce (V11, with a pretty sick dyno), and more.  Committed: Lost Arrow Spire, Tyrolean Traverse
Video by Mark and Janelle Smiley - Our time in Yosemite had been great. Following a few rainy days, we decided to have a “light output” day and give the Lost Arrow Spire a go. Turns out, the hike up to Glacier Point took just about as much time as the climb itself. Let me paint the picture. The walls of the Yosemite Valley are about 2000 feet tall. The Spire pulls away from the wall right at the top, creating this 200-foot tall rock finger island that towers above it all... Read more at smileysproject.com.  Dave Graham on Ali Nomad (5.14b)
Video by Jon Cardwell - Dave Graham makes the first ascent of Ali Nomad (5.14b), a hybrid boulder/route in Clear Creek Canyon, in April 2011. Here's what Graham says about the route: "Very sick little route!! Starts on Off the Books, then climbs out Freak with the huge move at the end. Did the bottom boulder pretty quickly, then warmed up more trying Freak, then did the link first try. Jon's vision, inspired by the Spanish master ANDRADA!!!! Feels great to be on a rope again!"  10 Days in Lapland
Video by Marko Kauko - Join Marko and Kirsi Kauko as they spend time bouldering in Lapland, a region in North Scandanavia belonging to Sweden, Finland, and Russia. It snows there from September until May, so the incredible boulders are only available for few precious months.  Climbing in Turkey
Follow along with a group of friends as they travel to Turkey to climb at Geyikbayiri, a crag located just outside of the major city of Antalya. Geyikbayiri was recently developed in 2001 and is a sport climbing crag made up of aesthetic limestone tufas and spanning about a mile long.  Cliffhanger Dyno Comp 2010
Video by Posing Productions - A video of the Dyno Competition at the Cliffhanger event 2010, featuring the awesome Skyler Weeks breaking the world record with a leap of almost 9 feet, 4 inches. Pick up the May issue of Climbing to read more about Skyler and dynos in general in "10 Things You Didn't Know About Dynos."  A Good Day in Boulder Canyon, Colorado
Video by John Gass and Ivo Penchev - Short video featuring problems all over Boulder Canyon, Colorado, including The Hug Right, Koyaanisqatsi, Witch Hunt (V10), Toil & Blood (V8), and The Fin (V9).  Hardest of the Alps
Video by STORY.teller Collective - In the summer of 2010, Iker and Eneko Pou decided to visit legends. Travelling the Alps in their camper van, they met the godfathers that changed climbing forever. Walking on the footsteps of Manolo, Alex Huber and Beat Kammerlander, they repeated some of the most iconic routes in the history of big-wall climbing: itineraries that show the way to the new generations.  Boulder World Cup 2011 Report #3: Vienna, Austria
Video by Udo Neumann - Austrian Anna Stöhr has won her second World Cup in a row for 2011, putting her in first place for the ranking. Alex Puccio—who has placed sixth, third, and second thus far—ranks second overall, followed closely by Akiyo Noguchi of Japan. America's other Alex (Johnson) is tied for 10th. Comp king Kilian Fischhuber—who took first in Italy and third in Slovenia—unexpectedly didn't make finals in Vienna. He still ranks second overall after Russia's Dmitry Sharafutdinov, with Guillaume Glairon Mondet in third. See the videos from Milan here and Slovenia here.  Last Schnitzel in India
Video by Adrian Zeller - A group of friends explore the exotic bouldering destination of Hampi, India, in February 2011. Making sure to climb the unique boulders the area has to offer, they give the viewer a taste of the aesthetic rock and adventure to be had in this dream location. Watch Kilian Geiger, Benoit Dougald, Lukas Aichhorn, Peter Pratscher, and Adrian Zeller battle the majestic granite orbs which litter the area.  Golden Touch (5.13b), Red River Gorge, KY
Video by Chris Lamme - Alan Smith, 22, sends Golden Touch (5.13b), Red River Gorge, Kentucky. This striking line is located at the Motherlode in the southern region of the gorge. Running 45 feet up a beautiful gold streak in the sandstone wall, the route features difficult, varied climbing: credit-card crimps, nasty slopers, and RRG pockets. Smith cruised this difficult overhung line this past April.  Origins - The Hulk
Video by Big Up Productions and Sender Films - Climbing legend Peter Croft mentors boulderer Lisa Rands on the finer points of alpine free climbing during an ascent of Venturi Effect, Croft's spectacular route on The Incredible Hulk in California's Sierra Nevada. This is the second installment in the Origins series, presented by Evolv shoes with The North Face and Mountain Gear. Featured on the 2010 REEL ROCK Film Tour DVD and HD Download. Check out the first installment, from Joshua Tree, here.  UCTV Video of the Month: March 2011
Video by Jeff Drumm - Somewhere in the Deep South lie numerous isolated boulder fields, such as this one. Ten-plus years ago the crew climbed here, but it never developed into a frequently visited area. So we're back and psyched! This video won Jeff UCTV's Video of the Month for March 2011 sponsored by Metolius. His submission wins him a Metolius hangboard. Go to myuctv.com to enter your very own climbing film for a chance to win a Metolius hangboard!  Heather Robinson - Balance
Video by Andy Mann - "I discovered rock climbing eight years ago while studying at CSU in Ft. Collins, Colorado, and after moving back to Las Vegas four years ago, I discovered the endless local sport climbing and embraced the art of projecting difficult routes. I like the challenge of trying something harder than I've ever tried before, and the commitment it takes to accomplish that goal. Balancing my devotion to a professional career and my passion for rock climbing is truly rewarding. One of my strengths is that I don't give up. For me, sport climbing requires the same kind of tenacity, mental focus, and dedication that got me through veterinary school." ~Heather Robinson  Adam Ondra: the First Ascent of Chaxi Raxi (5.15b)
Video by Black Diamond - Adam Ondra made the first ascent of Chaxi Raxi, a massive 5.15b line at Oliana, Spain, in late April. This is likely one of the hardest sport climbs in the world. Bernardo Gimenez was on the scene to document Ondra’s efforts and he was fortunate enough to be there for the redpoint. Stunning. Impressive. Inspiring. Absolutely bad-ass. Read more here. Below is a recap from Ondra.  No Pain, No Spain
Video by Boreal - Boreal athletes Nacho Sanchez, Ignasi Tarrazona, Bruno Macias, and Pedro Pons climb and boulder in Spain. Routes and problems include Malsoñando (5.14b), ChikaraI (5.14a), El Del Lance (V11), Sin Respeto (V13), Noctambula (V13), and many more. See more of Boreal's athletes climbing here.  Boulder World Cup 2011 Report #2: Log-Dragomer, Slovenia
Video by Udo Neumann - Highlights from the 2011 Bouldering World Cup in Log-Dragomer, Slovenia. From Neumann: "Anna Stöhr and Glairon Mondet Guillaume were the undisputed winners of the second Boulder World Cup of 2011 that will be always remembered for its funky route setting, especially for the girls. The uncoated panels allowed for some truly remarkable problems that spanned from demanding, rather old-chool but highly refined climbing skills to the most new-school jumps. The problems only had one thing in common: they were all awkward! As chief route setter Percy Bishton put it: "A nightmare for the competitors, but hey, I'm not paid for being nice!" For the audience that was one of the best Boulder World Cups ever!" See a full write-up here.  Madaleine Sorkin Climbs Freeline (5.13b R)
Video by Lizzy Scully - Madaleine Sorkin recently sent Freeline (5.13b R) in Eldorado Canyon, Colorado, after working the route for five days. A little over a year ago, Boulder local Jenn Flemming grabbed the first female ascent of the line. See mountainproject.com for more info about the route. |
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