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 Adam Ondra on Chilam Balam (5.15b)
Video by Sáltatela - Adam Ondra climbs the first section of Chilam Balam (5.15b) at the Villanueva del Rosario in Spain. Ondra took three days to work this 270-foot, 22-bolt route. This is the route's first confirmed ascent, as Spaniard Bernabé Fernández's ascent was never confirmed in 2003. Read more here.  Joe Kinder on Tiger Blood (5.14c) - Preview
Video by 3D Media Watch - Here is a preview of Joe Kinder on his FA of Tiger Blood (5.14c) at the Blank Wall in southern Utah. He bolted the climb last year but wasn't especially psyched to climb it because it doesn't suit his climbing style very well. He sent after he"started to not give a shit" and was "pretty much over it." Read more details here, and watch for the full episode at 3dmediawatch.com.  New England Bouldering
Video by Jon Glassberg - LT11 climbing in New England. Jon Glassberg flashes Speed Dyno (V10) at Great Barrington, flashes Stand and Deliver (V11) in Pawtuckaway, climbs Pressure Drop (V10) and Fotowa (V9) at Great Barrington, and sends The Prow (V10) at Bradley. Max Zolotukhin climbs Fotowa SDS (V11) at Great Barrington, comes close to a repeat on The Book Of Bitter Aspects (V13) and Dave Wetmore climbs Speed Dyno (V10) and nearly sends Busted Shadow SDS (V13) at Bradley.  Towers of the Ennedi - Sneak Peek
This is an exclusive preview presented by The North Face of the film festival edit that will be showing at the 5point film festival and Telluride Mountain Film. If you have the ability to make these festivals, we highly encourage it! Meeting the filmmakers, the big-screen viewing experience, and the variety of amazing adventure film subjects are not to be missed. —Renan Ozturk. Don't miss Mark Synnott's feature about the towers in Chad in Climbing's September issue.  The Love Letter
Video by Fitz Cahall and Mikey Schaefer - "Still clinging to young man's dreams, a 30-something professional revives his youthful vision of summits and faint trails and abandons work and the city. 'The Love Letter' follows a pair of climbers in search of new and classic climbing routes across the spine of the Sierra, into difficult to reach stretches of the range. In the clutter of the modern world, can wilderness restore the human spirit?" Be sure to grab a copy of the latest (May) issue of Climbing for a feature about Fitz and Becca Cahall's journey across the Sierra.  Spring Fever in Boone, NC
Video by Dalen Gray - A video of Boone climbers running around local bouldering areas in spring 2011, climbing hard classic problems like Matt's Prow (V8) and Two Pop (V9) at Lost Cove; Desperate Bitch (V8), Jason Lives (V9), and Preferential Treatment (V9) at Blowing Rock; and Ebonics (V6) at Grandmother Mountain.  Jimmy Webb and Dave Graham in Red Feather, CO
Video by Jon Cardwell - Jamie Emerson shows Dave Graham, Jimmy Webb, and Rami Annab around the boulders in Red Feather, Colorado. It was Friday, so first tries were high priority. Featuring The Mastadon (V12) and The Big Bang (V12, flashed by Webb—he also flashed another Colorado V12 recently called The Burnout).  The Big Four at Cuvier Rempart, Fontainebleau
Video by Wild Country - James Blay sends the classic problems at Cuvier Rempart—Big Boss, Tristesse, Big Golden, and Formis Rouge. "What can I say? Four of the biggest and best 7c's [V9] in the forest! So pleased to get them all done," Blay says. "For those of you unfamiliar with these problems, they are situated together at the top of Cuvier Rempart.  Steph Davis Tower Project Teaser
In November of 2010, Steph Davis called me to tell me about a project she was getting ready to start in the desert. Her plan was to climb four desert towers and BASE jump off. Each tower had a unique twist to it, but the true intention of the project was to simply take advantage of local adventure on the unique terrain in her home town: Moab, Utah. I immediately jumped on the opportunity; to photograph and film her climbing classic desert towers, making first free ascents, doing jumps no women has ever done, and, more important, being a part of this unique project.  2011 SCS National Championship Highlights
Videos by Louder Than 11 - Watch both the men's and women's finals highlights of USA Climbing's SCS Open National Championships at Movement Climbing + Fitness in Boulder on Saturday, April 2, 2011. For the second year in a row, Sasha DiGiulian and Magnus Midtboe won the comp. Paige Claassen and Dana Riddle also medaled in the lead comp, with Matty Hong and Carlo Traversi following Midtboe. Read the full write-up here.  Adam Ondra Onsighting Mind Control (5.14c)
Video by Black Diamond - Adam Ondra went on an unstoppable onsight spree this past February and March in northern Spain, managing a stunning five 8c+ routes onsight. Five! Only Ondra’s fellow BD team member Patxi Usobiaga has managed a 5.14c onsight, and that was just one. We sent ace lensman Bernardo Gimenez to document Ondra’s onsighting at the mega-crag of Oliana, and he was fortunate enough to be rigged and ready when Ondra onsighted Mind Control (5.14c), a gorgeous, 40-meter tufa/colonette/pocket line that was soaking wet on top.  Corey Rich - Origins of a Legend
Video by Rex Lint - A portrait of adventure photographer Corey Rich. He started climbing at 13 years old, and, he says, "fell in love with the sport. Loved everything about being outside." He thinks of himself as a storyteller, and "I realized immediately that to tell a compelling story, I actually needed to bring back compelling photographs."  No Numbers: A Maja Vidmar Portrait
Video by Jure Niedorfer - No Numbers is a unique portrait of one of the world's best sport climbers, Maja Vidmar. It was shot in different locations, including Slovenia, Italy, and Croatia and it presents Maja's training, competitions, sport climbing, and bouldering. The movie is focused on dynamic aesthetics and fun. It tries to explain why Maja climbs, what motivates her, and, most of all, what will motivate her in the future, told from a very basic perspective. The movie was shot as a no-budget, one-man band project. Get a free download at iClimb.com.  The Zanskar Odyssey - Part 3
Video by CryptoChild - At first light, the Zanskar crew wakes to find themselves in the middle of a gigantic boulder field. The first ascent potential is endless, and the team starts to wonder if there will be enough time. "Within a stone's throw from our tents, we had fun warm-ups, a melodic stream, and many inspiring lines to clean," Abbey Smith says. See Parts 1 and 2 here.  Heart ov Zteel Highlights 2011
Video by Jon Glassberg - The Heart ov Zteel competition at the Boston Rock Gym is unique. Rather than focusing on topping out problems, money is hung from the wall, and competitors aim to grab as much money as possible while climbing the boulder problem in a six-minute time limit. Natasha Barnes and Tiffany Hensley tied for first in the women's division, with Melissa Godowski following in second. For the men, Vasya Vorotnikov won, followed by Dave Wetmore and Daniel Berman.  Raphael Slawinski on The Peach (WI 5 M8), Canadian Rockies
Video by Black Diamond - Raphael Slawinski has climbed ice all over the Canadian Rockies, from fat ice flows to desperate mixed lines, bagging tons of first ascents along the way. Recently, he teamed up with Grant Meekins to make the first ascent of an impressive bolt-free mixed line, The Peach (WI 5 M8). Raph was so stoked about the route that he later returned with Jerome Yerly to make the second ascent, this time with Wiktor Skupinski along to film the action.  The Love Letter Trailer
Years earlier, Fitz had met a couple who backpacked and climbed through the Sierra for two months. Their description of stunning granite, cerulean alpine lakes, and sunshine for days provided fodder to tantalize our climbing-addled brains. When the long days of summer shortened, we mused about taking our own journey through the Sierra, but this and that prevented us from committing to it. Yet, we knew that if didn't make the time, schedule projects and work differently, the trip would continue to exist only in the ethereal.  Oreganic Volume 2
Video by Greg Garretson - It's the beginning of the climbing season for some. Others are stuck in the gym dreaming of the real thing. For the fortunate ones who can ditch their jobs and classes, there's year-round fun chasing the best temps at the best crags. Home to world-class crack climbing and more than 60 bouldering satellites, Oregon hides under the radar of many travelers. The quest for new areas has left many classic crags like Smith Rock forgotten by the climbing masses.  Second Ascent of Schadenfreude (5.13d)
Video by Upskill Climbing - Australian climber Tom O'Halloran makes the second ascent of Schadenfreude (5.13d) at the Pulpit in Queensland, Australia. Lee Cujes established the route (taking 17 days) in 2008, and Tom finished the line after his second day of effort. "It's a really super-cool bouldery route," Tom says, "where it's quite sort of easy climbing, and then you get a half rest, and it throws you into all these really solid, sort of undercling moves and stuff on really small crimps. It's sort of my strength."  Second Ascent of The Impossible Traverse (V13)
Video by Byron Wolter - The Impressive Traverse, a boulder problem at Mortar Rock in the Berkeley Hills, was established by Chris Sharma seven years ago and hadn't seen a second ascent until recently. Local Brian Hedrick made the repeat on March 23 after five days of effort. Both suggest V13 for the traverse. |
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